Bunch of random pics of cutters

[Philbert]

‘Setting’ each tooth or cutter is necessary because the kerf has to be wider than the blade (conventional saws) or guide bar (chainsaws), or the saw will get stuck.

Similarly, ‘jointing’ each tooth or cutter is necessary so that the cutting edges all align at the same height (or along a curve, etc.).

Applies to all wood and metal cutting saws (except some specialty stuff).

The genius of Joe Cox’s design, some 75 years ago, is that you can:
- sharpen the top plate cutting edge;
- sharpen the side plate cutting edge;
- joint the chain;
- set the cutters;
all in one pass of a round file, by keeping the cutters equal length!

You have to sharpen an old fashioned crosscut saw (‘misery whip’) to really appreciate this.

Chains that have cutters at different height, and with different set, will still cut, but not as efficiently. It’s like driving a car with different pressure in each of the four tires.


Philbert

 

[Wilhelm]

Have you ever tried semi-skip?

No!
It is difficult enough to get full skip.

Besides, semi skip makes no sense.
It is an illogical tooth sequence where one tooth side is free roaming while the opposite side teeth trail in the wake of chips generated by the leading teeth.

 

[Philbert]

This is an illustration I have posted several times.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Besides, semi skip makes no sense.

I always thought that semi-skip chain was for guys who could not make up their minds! But some guys seem to really like it.

‘It is difficult enough to get full skip.’

On A.S. We discussed making skip chain at home, by cutting off every third cutter with a Dremel tool. Designed ‘Cowboy Skip’ chain, it would be a variation of semi-skip, but slightly less balanced, Left to Right.

With a spinner and breaker set (the holidays are coming!) you can make whatever you want!


Philbert

 

[Wilhelm]

I always thought that semi-skip chain was for guys who could not make up their minds! But some guys seem to really like it.

‘It is difficult enough to get full skip.’

On A.S. We discussed making skip chain at home, by cutting off every third cutter with a Dremel tool. Designed ‘Cowboy Skip’ chain, it would be a variation of semi-skip, but slightly less balanced, Left to Right.

With a spinner and breaker set (the holidays are coming!) you can make whatever you want!


Philbert

I made a hillbilly 115DL skip, posted many pictures, it cut really well.
I wore that loop down and now use my former spare which is still full comp.

My PS-9010 pulls 36" full comp no problem, but it is tedious filing 57 teeth.

I have a spinner & breaker, have yet to use it.
I don't have any presets though.

BTW, the Husqvarna roller guide "sits wrong" on Carlton A2LM chain, the file gets positioned way too high.

 

[huskihl]

This particular chain did not see any wood yet after getting sharpened.

But I had chains coming out like that due to worn down roller guide bottom rollers.
It takes a strong PH and will pull You right into the log, loads the PH and doesn't ease up.
It gets dull faster, yes - but with a beak that strong it is a matter of 2-3 file strokes at the correct file height to get the edge back.
The rakers are conservative/to specs as to keep the bite under control.

As said, it is a "fun" grind/filing, not intended to be a heavy duty work chain.
I will see whether I can set up a camera and record a couple bucking cuts.
The issue is that I am all out of smaller logs and speedwood, and I know this chain won't like gnarly turkey oak much.
It would eat through softer wood species like a hot knife through butter.

Just having a little fun!

@SCHallenger accidentally made a chain like that. It’s pretty damn fast

 

[Wilhelm]

@SCHallenger accidentally made a chain like that. It’s pretty damn fast

I only ground every third cutters top plate back and left the side plate to act as rakes, that chain cleared chips quite well without cutting any worse!

 

[huskihl]

I only ground every third cutters top plate back and left the side plate to act as rakes, that chain cleared chips quite well without cutting any worse!

I tried making him a fast chain on the square grinder but his accidental round chain was still faster

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Thank you for the explanation of set and joint @rogue60 ,@Philbert .
That makes logical sense to me. Kind of explains why guys say a chain filed down past half way is faster.

 

[Wilhelm]

Thank you for the explanation of set and joint @rogue60 ,@Philbert .
That makes logical sense to me. Kind of explains why guys say a chain filed down past half way is faster.

Try past the witness mark . . .

 

[Philbert]

Kind of explains why guys say a chain filed down past half way is faster.

Narrower kerf might be part of that. Also larger gullets to clear chips, and reduced mass to spin around the bar. Guys making race chains are always trying to reduce chain weight.

Philbert

 

[Squareground3691]

Chain’s always cut best at 50 to 75 percent usage less drag , more chip clearance, smaller kerf just faster in general.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I don't believe that I have the time to go down the rabbit hole of efficiency to the degree of filing 3/4 of a chain even because I might have recently discovered some rare earth mineral (concrete block) under some leaves beside a back cut. I probably ruined the corners of 3-4 cutters but honestly I am not going to sharpen a work chain down to match those.
I could possibly see this if you wiped a asphalt line in the road because that usually takes out 50% of the corners.

 

[rogue60]

I don't believe that I have the time to go down the rabbit hole of efficiency to the degree of filing 3/4 of a chain even because I might have recently discovered some rare earth mineral (concrete block) under some leaves beside a back cut. I probably ruined the corners of 3-4 cutters but honestly I am not going to sharpen a work chain down to match those.
I could possibly see this if you wiped a asphalt line in the road because that usually takes out 50% of the corners.

I'm just passing on and sharing how chain is designed by the people who invented it to work at it's most optimum. How people use that information is up to them. The more knowledge and understanding a person has about anything is never a bad thing and we all like tinkering with chain here.
This is more aimed towards play gtg chain like I said for firewood duties set probably isn't of much concern.

 

[Jason628]

My dad lost his mind with the Chicago electric grinder.

 

[Philbert]

My dad lost his mind with the Chicago electric grinder.

Any grinder: take a few ‘scrap’ chains and play around a bit to see what differences small changes make, and what it takes to get the cutter shapes you want.

Philbert

 

[Jason628]

Any grinder: take a few ‘scrap’ chains and play around a bit to see what differences small changes make, and what it takes to get the cutter shapes you want.

Philbert

Normally I just round file... I played with that harbor freight grinder a bit and didn't really care for it as it is difficult to be consistent. If it was mine I would cobble together a better mechanism that keeps the chain from moving around while trying to grind it. I was able to straighten out one of the chains to were it would cut ok. I think most of the problem is he is having trouble seeing. Idk.. I took all the messed up ones home and am slowly fixing them and threw a new Oregon EXL on his saw and told him please do not try to sharpen any more chains.

 

[Wilhelm]

Many, if not most chainsaw operators do not know how to sharpen their own chains.
As a matter of fact, most operators do not know how a cutter should look like, lest how the cutter works whilst racing through a log shaving wood chips and carrying them out of the cut.
That been said, as they are used to run very dull chains excessively utilizing their saws spikes any kind of sharpening attempt will result in a better cutting chain in their mind.

There is actually a mini belt sanding chain grinder (yes, You read that correctly!) that generates a cutter shape similar to that pictured above.
The "inventor" wants 300+€ for the contraption and You can't even use it till You pair it up with a corded or cordless drill.
I guess any product, no matter how useless it is, will find a satisfied customer eventually.

 

[Wilhelm]

Ugh, juck!



Yes, You hold that contraption including a drill of Your own choice in Your hands and for doing so You get high precision ground high speed cutting chains!

 

[Philbert]

If it was mine I would cobble together a better mechanism that keeps the chain from moving around while trying to grind it.

I started a long thread on the cheap, ‘Harbor Freight style’ grinders on A.S., due to a challenge. Bottom line: cheap is cheap. Did not like the wheels on most of them either.

Here is a link, if interested:
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/

If you know what you are try achieve, you might be able to improve a dull chain, but they are not my first choice.

Philbert