Dogging in vs self feeding - Tooth length too! The truth of it.

[bogieboy]

Looks like type #1 hooning unnecessary noise and smoke.

100% type 2, theres no way an aussie vehicle inspector would pass that as licensable, or passing safety standards....

 

[huskihl]

Yeah no street racing down here unless ya braindead lol
Depending on the state ya can get ya vehicle confiscated and crushed also on top of that up to a $16,000 fine and a year jail.
Not to mention we have speed cameras on just about every street corner and they bring in about 1 billion dollars in fines a year for our awesome dopey corrupt little Government.
Yeah they love getting ya for 3-4 kilometres over the speed limit is the ultimate cash cow for em

View attachment 435407

You guys need a revolution like we had 250 years ago.

 

[Woodslasher]

You guys need a revolution like we had 250 years ago.

We're damn near needing one too.

 

[rogue60]

You guys need a revolution like we had 250 years ago.

To late Australia has fallen. As we speak the government is trying to put a bill through that bans free speech so yeah call out the government or post a meme they don't like it's off to jail just like in the UK and China.

 

[Brush Ape]

Not gonna read this whole damn thread because I am too retarded and so are you. However, the only technique in chain sharpening that leads to self-feeding is Down Angle. That’s all I’m gonna say about it.

BA

 

[rogue60]

I've never been a fan of forcing the saw (or any other tool) to eat more than it wants to, and my saws are all on the small side. I only apply enough pressure to get a good bite and nothing more. My cuts show some skidding lines, especially in hardwood. But the job still gets done.

Teach me the ways of the Jedi...

 

[rogue60]

Not gonna read this whole damn thread because I am too retarded and so are you. However, the only technique in chain sharpening that leads to self-feeding is Down Angle. That’s all I’m gonna say about it.

BA

Learnt about 10 down in the late 80's.. Applied it from the 90's onwards and yes I agree always 10 down (I assume that's what you mean with down angle?).
My chains self feed in our native Cypress Pine fine and it's the same janka ranking as white Oak?.. But get into the hard Aussie hardwoods and meh self feed is lacking.... What am I doing wrong?..

Anyways this vid contains Cypress Pine at the start and narrow leaf Red Ironbark.

 

[ferris]

Which angle do u mean with down angle?

 

[Squish9]

Teach me the ways of the Jedi...

The 172 is tolerating that pretty well.

I have had the semi chisel, bump link won't bore / plunge cut argument a few times. All I can say is if it doesn't, someone needs to explain that to all the trees that I bore cut with it.

I tried explaining the whole file tilt, less side plate angle, good top plate cutting angle idea works well for hardwoods only to be told I will blow up my saw with a chain like that and I should be sharpening like bucking. It appears most chainsaw enthusiasts on the internet have cut nothing harder than their pillow, if they have ever cut anything at all.

It's nuts to me that cypress is harder than most north American hardwoods, it feels like cutting a tub of butter compared to most of the box gums

 

[Wilhelm]

I don't know whether what I consider tough hard woods actually is hard or not.
Cornelian cherry, Locust, Turkey oak.

Everything else that I encounter just feels soft.

 

[rogue60]

Which angle do u mean with down angle?

Not sure if you are talking to me or brush ape?
Squish9 has a good vid on 10 down with the file go check out his YouTube

This his channel

 

[ferris]

Not sure if you are talking to me or brush ape?
Squish9 has a good vid on 10 down with the file go check out his YouTube

This his channel

Thx for the link

 

[Squish9]

Look at that self feeding, I knew cutting like the Americans would work here.

Stihl 36RS, Stihl progressive depth gauge on the soft wood setting.

 

[rogue60]

Old Buck showing us how it's done.

Stihl RS .404 7pin

And I better add is no need to freak out about the loose chain he's at the end of a tank of fuel this is normal working a saw hard with hardnose bars in hard hardwoods.
He'll sharpen and adjust the chain when it runs out of fuel... That’s the routine sharpen and adjust the chain and tap out air filter after every tank of fuel!.

 

[Squish9]

Old Buck showing us how it's done.

Stihl RS .404 7pin

And I better add is no need to freak out about the loose chain he's at the end of a tank of fuel this is normal working a saw hard with hardnose bars in hard hardwoods.
He'll sharpen and adjust the chain when it runs out of fuel... That’s the routine sharpen and adjust the chain and tap out air filter after every tank of fuel!.

I have a dumb question for you mate, how do you set depth gauges?

I am trying to walk the fine line between it not cutting and chattering like a bastard

 

[rogue60]

I have a dumb question for you mate, how do you set depth gauges?

I am trying to walk the fine line between it not cutting and chattering like a bastard

Not a dumb question but can't really help ya don't use gauges.
Go on feedback the chain tells ya what it needs for the timber you are cutting. Only way you can do this is keep all cutters even same length that way what applies to one depth gauge (one or two rubs) applies to all depth gauges the chain is uniform.

 

[Squish9]

Not a dumb question but can't really help ya don't use gauges.
Go on feedback the chain tells ya what it needs for the timber you are cutting. Only way you can do this is keep all cutters even same length that way what applies to one depth gauge (one or two rubs) applies to all depth gauges the chain is uniform.

I keep getting told that the Stihl progressive gauges are the way to go but the problem is every time I use one it either cuts slower or it at best it cuts the same. I lost the 404 one that I had and have not bothered to replace it

 

[HumBurner]

I have a dumb question for you mate, how do you set depth gauges?

I am trying to walk the fine line between it not cutting and chattering like a bastard

Learn to trust your eyes and listen to how the chain responds in the wood.

BobL's progressive filing thread on AS is well worth a few reads, if you haven't already.


Most people take one or two hard flat strokes on the top of the depth gauge and round it out some (or not), and call it a day.

I rarely make hard, flat strokes on the top of the gauge, but instead make a stroke enough to expose fresh metal, maybe a second, then make lots of light strokes in a rounded motion from the front of the gauge to the top exposing fresh metal the whole way, tying it into the top. If you can keep your motion and pressure steady, the depths all end up close enough to the same.

Some folks swear that even tooth length matters, but as long as each tooth is set to its depth gauge, they flow the same (or within micro-differences of each other)

 

[rogue60]

I keep getting told that the Stihl progressive gauges are the way to go but the problem is every time I use one it either cuts slower or it at best it cuts the same. I lost the 404 one that I had and have not bothered to replace it

Yeah personally I couldn't imagine being stuck with so little fine tuning with gauges like soft or hard and that's it, what if I don't want either of them settings lol

 

[rogue60]

Learn to trust your eyes and listen to how the chain responds in the wood.

BobL's progressive filing thread on AS is well worth a few reads, if you haven't already.


Most people take one or two hard flat strokes on the top of the depth gauge and round it out some (or not), and call it a day.

I rarely make hard, flat strokes on the top of the gauge, but instead make a stroke enough to expose fresh metal, maybe a second, then make lots of light strokes in a rounded motion from the front of the gauge to the top exposing fresh metal the whole way, tying it into the top. If you can keep your motion and pressure steady, the depths all end up close enough to the same.

Some folks swear that even tooth length matters, but as long as each tooth is set to its depth gauge, they flow the same (or within micro-differences of each other)

So you know nothing of left and right cutter set?
More advanced filing you learn about "set" it's a key step if the goal is an efficient chain all working as one.
Have you ever wondered why they stone race chains? They sure as hell don't have cutters all different lengths they understand set.
A blanket statement that uniform cutter length (same set all left and all right cutters) doesn't matter is just ignorance on the matter.
I'm talking more advanced sharpening a clapped dirt cutting firewood chain ya right who cares.

Some people are fine with never mastering sharpening or fully understanding saw chain close enough is good enough and that's fine by me I'm not using their chains lol