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Bunch of random pics of cutters

Wilhelm

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its very good out of box. many cant file it faster
New factory ground chain can never be faster that a truly well ground or filed "worn down" chain simply because a new chain cuts a wider kerf and removes more wood. ;)

Although, I am not saying X-Cut isn't fast!
I may get one in 3/8" and give it a try. :)
 

Maintenance Chief

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I understand hat X-cut has a bunch of odd angles out of the box and it's fast. I have also heard once you hand file it, those angles go away that make it so fast.
The top plate of the tooth seams to be actually thinner than a lgx chain , so its profile would be similar once hand filed , but still different.
 

davidwyby

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@Jason628 that’s gonna be pretty fast.
There’s a balance. I ground a durable grind on a 20” chain and it cut well on my ported 346 at Kevin’s GTG in northern wood. I just ran it here in some hard desert mesquite on my ported 2156 and it doesn’t have enough bite. Maybe lower rakers…or more hook.
I have been playing with 23rs (Stihl .325 full chisel narrow kerf) on the 346 and it’s wicked fast. Lots of hook. But I found that in tough, stringy aleppo pine, if I stop in the cut, the cutters anchor in the wood and have a hard time getting going again.
Fun stuff to experiment and learn on.
 

Timjus

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The top plate of the tooth seams to be actually thinner than a lgx chain , so its profile would be similar once hand filed , but still different.
x cut chain has been ground with sharp cornered grinding wheel.
grinder plunges wheel in and then sweeps down to the gullet area
 

rogue60

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Playing with my chains
my old hand roller file guide rubbed chain vs new c85.
both rakes are set for soft wood
Give the file 10 down and test again...chisel rips with 10 down in my experience.
 

Timjus

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Give the file 10 down and test again...chisel rips with 10 down in my experience.
this was the hand roller filed chain. i have noticed every time i go gown from good c shape i only gain roughness.
picture.php
 

rogue60

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this was the hand roller filed chain. i have noticed every time i go gown from good c shape i only gain roughness.
picture.php


10 degrees down on the file won't lower the gullet or effect the c which I agree is a good thing.
All chisel chain I've seen the top plate left and right slopes 10 degrees to the inside forming a V you can see this if you look down the chain.

All semichisel I've seen has 0 degrees top plates. I sometimes give semichisel 10 down and sometimes I don't. I mostly do it if I want a bit more speed out of semichisel.


Here's some pics that might help explain why 10 degrees down on chisel chain makes for a nice uniform cutter edge from the inside too the outside. It's just another option can never have too many options hand filing.
20221030_082100.jpg 20221030_082208.jpg


20221030_083801.jpg
 
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fossil

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New factory ground chain can never be faster that a truly well ground or filed "worn down" chain simply because a new chain cuts a wider kerf and removes more wood. ;)

Although, I am not saying X-Cut isn't fast!
I may get one in 3/8" and give it a try. :)

It is fast out of the box. I've cut a bit with a couple but I'm with you on filed back chains. They rock with correct depth gauge height.
 

Jason628

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@Jason628 that’s gonna be pretty fast.
There’s a balance. I ground a durable grind on a 20” chain and it cut well on my ported 346 at Kevin’s GTG in northern wood. I just ran it here in some hard desert mesquite on my ported 2156 and it doesn’t have enough bite. Maybe lower rakers…or more hook.
I have been playing with 23rs (Stihl .325 full chisel narrow kerf) on the 346 and it’s wicked fast. Lots of hook. But I found that in tough, stringy aleppo pine, if I stop in the cut, the cutters anchor in the wood and have a hard time getting going again.
Fun stuff to experiment and learn on.

I ran that chain today and it is really grabby but, she fast. Limbing with it can be a little rough...
For bucking up pine, it mows right through it. Cut probably a cord and the chains still sharp.
Next one I'm straightening out I'll leave the rakers a little higher.
 

Wilhelm

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I could use some help getting this to self feed on 42” 3120.


View attachment 353171
I dislike semi chisel , but I got a bunch of it in B&C batch purchases and need to get some work out of them - so I too am improvising and adapting.

After You grind the teeth gullet deep like You did in Your video make a second pass advancing the tooth a little but raising the wheel high enough so that only the rounded section barely goes under the cutting edge (about as deep as 6-8 seconds into Your video?!) - that will give Your chains cutters a C geometry similar to the one You get round filing and the chain will be more willing to take a bite by itself.
At least that is what I came up with. :confused:

I have no pictures of what I mean, but I can try make some later today.

IMHO grinding that deep into the tooth's gullet does nicely clean said gullet but leaves a rather dull sloped cutting edge.
Take what I write with a grain of salt, I am new to grinding chains.
In my defense, I wore down a couple 18/20" 68/72DL 3/8" semi chisel loops that fed decently being ground.
I am refining my .325" & 3/8" LowProfile semi chisel grinding skills though.

EDIT/P.S.:
Also, full skip feeds better on long bars buried in large diameter wood!
Full complement is a s#it show at 36" in hardwood, I imagine it is even worse at 42".
 
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