Bunch of random pics of cutters

[pbillyi69]

even with a tight chain they rock back a little just from the drag lifting the tooth. i dont run my chain loose but not over tight either. just the nature of the beast. i went back and looked at that cutter i didnt grind enough of the gullet out. i just grind it off far enough that the side of it doesnt stick out past the edge of the cutter.

 

[huskihl]

simington 451b

Does the arm adjust up and down? Or is that only on the C model?

 

[pbillyi69]

it goes up and down and the chain holder slides back and forth like on the c model i think the only change between the b and c was the bearing where the arm swings dont quote me on that though

 

[pbillyi69]

here is an old pic

 

[huskihl]

here is an old pic
View attachment 373273

I was just wondering. Everybody runs those grinders differently. Or at least it seems like it’s different than what I do.
As the tooth wears, everyone rolls the chain stop forward more to bring the tooth down but doing it that way constantly changes the angle of the cutter as it wears out.

When I do it, I get the angle I want and I don’t touch the tooth stop. As the cutter wears out, I just lower the arm down. It keeps the same angle on the tooth the whole way through that way and you don’t end up getting into the tie straps once the tooth gets short

 

[pbillyi69]

well now im going to have to get my pea brain working. they way i see it is that the cutter is moved forward and as the tooth wears out the angle does change a little and i run this through my head all the time because it makes sense and thats where i get into trouble. the geometery of the tooth changes as it goes from front to back too. so what i think is that two or three things are happeningas the tooth get shorter the front of it goes further down on the arc which changes the overall angle of the tooth. but the tooth itself slopes back as it gets shorter too. i think to maintain the exact inside angles the tooth need to move forward and up at the same time. i have tried to measure the inside angles and have not been successfull yet and i have heard there is some fancy machine that can do it but they arent used that much any more and ant remember what they are called at the moment because im not a spring chicken any more and cant recall it. i have tried measuring photos and physically doing it but its so small its not possible with my tired eyes and lack of tools. back to the profile i have a chain somewhere that i used for playing with the set up on if i can find it. it has teeth of many different length that show the changes quite well. im kind of a perfectionist and spent a lot of time trying to get the grinder to be exaxtly the zame on both sides because i could see that it wasnt. that is also when i dis overed that new chain cutters were not the same from one side to the other. im too anal for my own good sometimes

 

[pbillyi69]

i think what kevin said makes sense but i think in doing that the inside top plate angle get sharper as you go.....like i said here goes my pea brain or maybe blunter

 

[huskihl]

well now im going to have to get my pea brain working. they way i see it is that the cutter is moved forward and as the tooth wears out the angle does change a little and i run this through my head all the time because it makes sense and thats where i get into trouble. the geometery of the tooth changes as it goes from front to back too. so what i think is that two or three things are happeningas the tooth get shorter the front of it goes further down on the arc which changes the overall angle of the tooth. but the tooth itself slopes back as it gets shorter too. i think to maintain the exact inside angles the tooth need to move forward and up at the same time. i have tried to measure the inside angles and have not been successfull yet and i have heard there is some fancy machine that can do it but they arent used that much any more and ant remember what they are called at the moment because im not a spring chicken any more and cant recall it. i have tried measuring photos and physically doing it but its so small its not possible with my tired eyes and lack of tools. back to the profile i have a chain somewhere that i used for playing with the set up on if i can find it. it has teeth of many different length that show the changes quite well. im kind of a perfectionist and spent a lot of time trying to get the grinder to be exaxtly the zame on both sides because i could see that it wasnt. that is also when i dis overed that new chain cutters were not the same from one side to the other. im too anal for my own good sometimes

Well, try what I mentioned and see if it works better for you. If what I said makes sense…

 

[huskihl]

i think what kevin said makes sense but i think in doing that the inside top plate angle get sharper as you go.....like i said here goes my pea brain or maybe blunter

From what I can tell, doing it the way I mentioned doesn’t change the cutter geometry at all.

 

[pbillyi69]

i was just looking at a picture of it you are right lowering it will keep the top plate the same but as the toot get shorter the side plate will get sharper because it will be into the wheel further towards the back

 

[pbillyi69]

what you said totally makes sense im doing it in my head as the arm swings further the side should get thinner...im a serious over thinker

 

[huskihl]

i think what kevin said makes sense but i think in doing that the inside top plate angle get sharper as you go.....like i said here goes my pea brain or maybe blunter

Sharpen a new cutter like that and then sharpen an old worn out cutter and measure the shiny spot on the side plate. That would tell you if it was much different

 

[pbillyi69]

im totall going to try it. im pretty sure i have been trick fu..... myself for years

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Haven’t heard that in a while...(TF)

 

[rogue60]

I would argue that the differences in set would be neglegable between long & short bits. If the rakers are all clearanced to the same depth individual to their corresponding bits, things work fine. Can't just throw a chain with plenty of bit left away because you ripped the corners off of one side.

And you would be wrong not sure why you can’t work out a longer cutter has more set and does more work than a shorter cutter? The longer cutter actually has to clean up the narrower kerf left behind from the shorter cutter that has less set.
No one said anything about throwing away chains ya missing the point.
I was just passing on knowledge that everything that cuts timber from circular saws/band saws/ hand saws all have set it's kind of important. Chainsaw chain is no exception it was designed this way as well with left and right set it's not made up or an internet myth this is fact. Why do you think guy's that do race chain stone their chains?

Will a chain cut with cutters all over the place yes! some people are fine with average this is more for they guy's wanting to master something and take it to the next level.
Definitely not talking about the kind of chains you cut dirty contaminated wood with or cut down into the ground with. Chains with very little time and care put into them with cutters all over the place are best for that type of work I agree.

Do you even know what set is? Look down on top of a new chain see the cutters all stick out left and right and tapper back that's called set yes it's an important part if an efficient chain is the goal.
I will add rakers have nothing to do with altering set.

Again this is set.

 

[HumBurner]

Here's one chain where I was just getting into the humps of the links. You can note the difference between the sharpened and unsharpened cutters. Noted by the shiny spot at the front of the hump versus the black stained hump of the unsharpened.




Also note there is little to no hook. 30*/0* round ground, self feeds and takes big bites, can go 2-3 tanks unless I dull out from dirt. Can bore cut without kickback issues, but it's not the fastest at it.

The depth ratio is higher on this than on a chain for brushing, as this 72dl chain is mainly for firewood on a 562xp. Probably in the .30-.35 range, but I don't measure usually.

 

[HumBurner]

Cutter #1:


There's a slight bit of damage that I didn't file out of cutter #1. It's insignificant and will come out on the next filing


Cutter #2, slightly different angle:

 

[HumBurner]

@davidwyby

Here's a .325/.043 cutter on a battery saw. You can see where I've ground down into the strap and link-hump essentially making it the gullet. Once these get down a hair further, I'll primarily be using a 3/16 file, as opposed to the rec'd 5/32, to maintain the profile as much as possible. And further grinding into the strap/link. I run em either til toothpicks (for bad rock/dirt jobs), til they break enough cutters, or both.

 

[brokenbones4]

First time trying these pferd three square files, took a little to get the angle right but got the hang of it now. More aggressive beak then the Husqvarna c85 chain but similar angle, cuts ridiculously well through spruce and poplar but I suppose most chains do.

 

[Wilhelm]

View attachment 375012View attachment 375013View attachment 375014
First time trying these pferd three square files, took a little to get the angle right but got the hang of it now. More aggressive beak then the Husqvarna c85 chain but similar angle, cuts ridiculously well through spruce and poplar but I suppose most chains do.

Try cutting through an oak knot with that loop, those beaks will all bend to he✓✓.
Even a small conifer knot may suffice to wreck those cutters.

Might be an interesting chain for really soft wood.

It is interesting to see the lengths people are going trying something new in terms of sharpening a chain.
I haven't "played" with chains in ages.
I simply do not have any "speedwood" to try anything hyper.

I have settled on big-C cutter profiles for my work chains as it has proven to be cutting and holding up well in the mostly muddy hardwoods I buck (skidded firewood logs), and I can touch them up easily in the field.