Bunch of random pics of cutters

[Squish9]

23RM (3693) is yellow, but 23RM3 (3695) is green. 23RS3 (3694) is green too.
Of course, you probably have your reasons that you need these 2 types, but the classification is conventional.
If you use a chainsaw with enough power, any chain becomes "yellow".
Nowadays, the tests are done on a test bench powered by an electric motor, but here is the data of a gas/petrol chainsaw that was used for the evaluation of .325 chains.


View attachment 450402

I was hoping to demonstrate them doing the same work because I think people have the wrong idea about them, problem is I can't get any of the Stihl bumper link chains here in 325 or 3/8.

Guess I'll leave and move on. At least I learnt something, the cutters are different between LPX and LGX

 

[Hfernandez]

Hello, I'm looking for constructive criticism if this is acceptable for a square grind. I'm converting this chain from a circle grind. I think I'm finally starting to figure out how to square grind by hand, but I want to make sure I'm not just mistaken.

Pferd 5/32 file and Pferd double bevel file used.

Sorry if the photos are blurry, the phone overcorrects, leaving too much reflection or not enough.

Thank you for the response in advance.

 

[pbillyi69]

from what i can see in the picture that will cut good. as long as the side cutter and top plate meet at the point on the inside it will cut. the thinner the top plate is will make it cut fast and dull quick. if you make it thicker or mor blunted like a chizel it will be stronger while cutting well and wont dull as fast. the top plate angle will also contribute to how fast it will cut and how smooth it cuts. the more squared it is the smoother it will cut but it will slow it down slightly the more pointed it is will make it cut faster if the saw has enough power but it will chatter more. the kind of wood you are cutting makes a difference too. i personally like my chains more squared off so they cut smoother. i also just go for a chain that will cut hard wood well. if a chain will cut hard wood well it will blast through soft wood really well

 

[Hfernandez]

Hello again, this is not my original photo, but is from a reputable porter. By chance, when first trying to learn how to square file, I took a true Pferd triangle file, not the hexagonal three sided Pferd file, and ended up with this tooth. There is no top tooth, like circle or square grinds I've seen, but it looks pretty good for cutting. The porter says it cuts well, and calls it a square grind. Is it accurate to consider this as a type of square grind?

The reason I ask, is that is super easy to achieve, just using that large triangle file at a slightly dow ward angle, similar to the 45/45/45 tilt, except you only keep it

from what i can see in the picture that will cut good. as long as the side cutter and top plate meet at the point on the inside it will cut. the thinner the top plate is will make it cut fast and dull quick. if you make it thicker or mor blunted like a chizel it will be stronger while cutting well and wont dull as fast. the top plate angle will also contribute to how fast it will cut and how smooth it cuts. the more squared it is the smoother it will cut but it will slow it down slightly the more pointed it is will make it cut faster if the saw has enough power but it will chatter more. the kind of wood you are cutting makes a difference too. i personally like my chains more squared off so they cut smoother. i also just go for a chain that will cut hard wood well. if a chain will cut hard wood well it will blast through soft wood really well

Thank you. This is good information for me to know. I think I will work to have a less aggressive angle, and be okay with slightly slower cutting.

 

[Squareground3691]

Hello again, this is not my original photo, but is from a reputable porter. By chance, when first trying to learn how to square file, I took a true Pferd triangle file, not the hexagonal three sided Pferd file, and ended up with this tooth. There is no top tooth, like circle or square grinds I've seen, but it looks pretty good for cutting. The porter says it cuts well, and calls it a square grind. Is it accurate to consider this as a type of square grind?

The reason I ask, is that is super easy to achieve, just using that large triangle file at a slightly dow ward angle, similar to the 45/45/45 tilt, except you only keep it
View attachment 451171

Thank you. This is good information for me to know. I think I will work to have a less aggressive angle, and be okay with slightly slower cutting.

Yup that’s a square grind , done on a square grinder,

 

[Hfernandez]

Yup that’s a square grind , done on a square grinder,

Thank you, I actually didn't mean to post this question, as you can see it got cut off. Nonetheless, good to know for the future.

 

[rogue60]

@Squish9 and @rogue60 would y'all throw up pics of your preferred semi chisel/404 cutter profiles?

Thanks

I don't do anything special or different than what most you guy's do with semi chisel or chisel chain except I never get the gullet that's a balsa wood thing lol

 

[Squish9]

Nothing special, just needed a pic of a chain for something else and thought this B3LM looked good

 

[Wilhelm]

An aggressive factory grind made a little bit less aggressive.
I basically turned a "chisel" cutter into a "semi-chisel" cutter.
A thing I picked up from WiDia drill bits, it helps keeping the outer edge from chipping and dulling.
Solid-Carbide drill bit.

 

[Wilhelm]

 

[ErnieG]

View attachment 453509

That's a summer chain

Ernie

 

[Wilhelm]

The term is "super skip" , .404" .063" milling chain.

Not mine, just trying to stir the pot!

 

[JKNW]

Filing some oldies today

David Bradley stamped 1/2" chipper




Absolutely beat .404 chain on my Zip, this bar and chain both are pretty haggard. Guessing it's seen lots of use under tired thumbs and not enough oil.

 

[av8or3]

My work last night. This is a Stihl 3/8 RS. Got a little happy with the rakers, won’t need additional adjustment for a long time.

Below I tried something weird.I saw an ad for a new square chisel grinder that advertised being able to do the rakers on the same machine as the cutters. I gave it a try in my 451c and it worked. Looks like Fidos butt but I bet it cuts.



This was a rocked chain that I had to grind way back to get it square again. After grinding the cutters, I used the sharp lower edge of the CBN wheel to lop off the tops of the rakers and then pushed it in farther to grind out the gullets. When the cutters were ground the rakers just slid under the wheel w/o touching. I backed up the stop for the cutter until the amount of raker I wanted to remove showed against the lower edge of the CBN wheel then just pushed the chain into it. Pushed it beyond to get the gullets. So, I got the cutters, the rakers and the gullets on the same machine. You could not do this on a stone wheel. You would destroy it. I think with practice I might be able to make it look better, maybe?

 

[av8or3]

My work last night. This is a Stihl 3/8 RS. Got a little happy with the rakers, won’t need additional adjustment for a long time. View attachment 456622View attachment 456623
View attachment 456624
Below I tried something weird.I saw an ad for a new square chisel grinder that advertised being able to do the rakers on the same machine as the cutters. I gave it a try in my 451c and it worked. Looks like Fidos butt but I bet it cuts.
View attachment 456625

View attachment 456626
This was a rocked chain that I had to grind way back to get it square again. After grinding the cutters, I used the sharp lower edge of the CBN wheel to lop off the tops of the rakers and then pushed it in farther to grind out the gullets. When the cutters were ground the rakers just slid under the wheel w/o touching. I backed up the stop for the cutter until the amount of raker I wanted to remove showed against the lower edge of the CBN wheel then just pushed the chain into it. Pushed it beyond to get the gullets. So, I got the cutters, the rakers and the gullets on the same machine. You could not do this on a stone wheel. You would destroy it. I think with practice I might be able to make it look better, maybe?

Well, Fidos butt cuts like it looks. Total waste of time. Lots of dust too. Probably from those little sharp thingys
left over from the gullets. The other will dig in and be real rough I know, because of the depth of the rakers, probably won’t run it anytime soon either because I have really good chains I can run. Fortunately.

 

[Wilhelm]

Setting rakers is a delicate thing!
One swipe too few with a flat file and the chain just races through the wood not taking a bite.
Two swipes too much and the same chain bogs down the saw and/or it cuts rough.

Use that loop on a more powerful PH, or grind the cutters back so they meet with the rakers.

I may soon get some trigger time, and as such chain grinding.
Have to come to an agreement for compensation bucking & splitting my neighbors oak logs.
I have been craving some chainsaw playtime not having any firewood logs of my own for months now.