Bunch of random pics of cutters

[Wilhelm]

Fresh grind on the aforementioned X-Cut.
Still gotta set the rakers having removed that much material off the cutters.
So far for me Husqvarna X-Cut is a great chain!

 

[Wilhelm]

Looks durable!

The grind is good, the chain brand is crap.

Archer - 1 tank of fuel on my PS-6400, with engaging spikes half way through the tank.

Husqvarna X-Cut - same grind, same log pile, on my PS-550, 3 tanks of fuel, spike engagement only after having hit a severe dry mud patch and wanting to get rid of that log

 

[Wilhelm]

Carlton, half a tank of fuel in dirty logs at most, was still OK, got used to finish the job.
Before


After mild touch up


Good chain, I also have Carlton on my 36" B&C setup.

 

[Wilhelm]

This was the crap the X-Cut went through for nearly 3 tanks of fuel.
I am impressed with this chain!

 

[Wilhelm]

Oregon full skip, mild touch up only.
No before pictures as the chain made a dozen cuts at most in clean uprooted oak.

 

[ZERO]

An efficient chain or sharp chain does not have to be 100% sharp.

When I see my shavings get close to the top plate, I stop as this is good enough for me.

Not chasing the proverbial razor sharp top plate made all the difference for me.

In clean wood, there is quite the tooth degradation in just a tank.

Touch ups keep everything at max efficiency, less strain on the power head, PTO bearing, bar and such.

 

[Wilhelm]

An efficient chain or sharp chain does not have to be 100% sharp.

When I see my shavings get close to the top plate, I stop as this is good enough for me.

Not chasing the proverbial razor sharp top plate made all the difference for me.

In clean wood, there is quite the tooth degradation in just a tank.

Touch ups keep everything at max efficiency, less strain on the power head, PTO bearing, bar and such.

Exactly!

 

[Partner]

Some blades are to the smallest tooth, for me one or two can stay less than 100% sharp . I am of course referring to the electric razor

 

[huskihl]

The grind is good, the chain brand is crap.

Archer - 1 tank of fuel on my PS-6400, with engaging spikes half way through the tank.

Husqvarna X-Cut - same grind, same log pile, on my PS-550, 3 tanks of fuel, spike engagement only after having hit a severe dry mud patch and wanting to get rid of that log

Wondering if you’ve used Archer for a while? I have some older stuff that was really slow, like 30% slower than Oregon LGX. In a few of the pictures I’ve seen of newer Archer chain, it looks a little different, like maybe a little bit faster

 

[huskihl]

Don’t see much of this stuff anymore. No idea where it came from. Must’ve been from a wayward saw that someone was tired of looking at and left it here. .325 Total. Angles all over the place, vertical cutters, some were leaning back, inconsistent gullet depths that I left intentionally as a test. No idea how it cut anything before because I took .015” off the rakers to get them down to .028“. This is after I ran it through the grinder. Should’ve taken before pics. It was special.

 

[Wilhelm]

Wondering if you’ve used Archer for a while? I have some older stuff that was really slow, like 30% slower than Oregon LGX. In a few of the pictures I’ve seen of newer Archer chain, it looks a little different, like maybe a little bit faster

I have worn out one Archer, hated its performance its entire lifecycle.
I am now wearing out a second Archer loop that came new with a saw purchase and it is performing way under what I consider average in regards of cutting performance.

The two loops are of different manufacturing dates/factories or whatever.
One said just "Arch" the other says "Archer" it their tie straps.
The one I am wearing out now looked better than the first one, but apparently good looks don't mean $#it.

I also couldn't find a liking for 3 TriLink loops I wore out.

 

[huskihl]

Did a little test today for those always saying “get the gullet“. Not so popular here, but more so in the Facebook groups. I’ve been saying for years that the angle on the top half of the side of the cutter is what matters for most firewood size pieces (16-20” bar), and today I tried my best to prove myself wrong.

The chain I posted a few posts up^^… I ran it like it is in those photos and then came back in and ran the lower gullet area through the grinder and went back out and made more cuts adjacent to the old ones. No difference that I could tell, or at least it’s not measurable and plenty within my margin of error. I suppose a stack of 12-16” cants 4’ high might make a little difference, but we don’t cut many of those for firewood. The chain isn’t all that different from before other than it’s cleaned out down to the straps now. It’s nothing fancy. Just wanted to learn whether or not it makes enough difference to worry about on your firewood chains. If I were cutting 36” logs, I’d probably do a little extra filing for added chip clearance.

 

[davidwyby]

It might help on super fibrous Doug fir…? Ever notice watching west coast fallers their saws usually cut fast and you know the wood is soft but the saw sounds like it’s loaded heavy…it’s the fibrousness

 

[huskihl]

It might help on super fibrous Doug fir…? Ever notice watching west coast fallers their saws usually cut fast and you know the wood is soft but the saw sounds like it’s loaded heavy…it’s the fibrousness

Sharp all the way to the drivers to help cut those fibers. Again and again and…

 

[Wilhelm]

Did a little test today for those always saying “get the gullet“. Not so popular here, but more so in the Facebook groups. I’ve been saying for years that the angle on the top half of the side of the cutter is what matters for most firewood size pieces (16-20” bar), and today I tried my best to prove myself wrong.

The chain I posted a few posts up^^… I ran it like it is in those photos and then came back in and ran the lower gullet area through the grinder and went back out and made more cuts adjacent to the old ones. No difference that I could tell, or at least it’s not measurable and plenty within my margin of error. I suppose a stack of 12-16” cants 4’ high might make a little difference, but we don’t cut many of those for firewood. The chain isn’t all that different from before other than it’s cleaned out down to the straps now. It’s nothing fancy. Just wanted to learn whether or not it makes enough difference to worry about on your firewood chains. If I were cutting 36” logs, I’d probably do a little extra filing for added chip clearance.

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To me cleaning the gullet results:
- easier & faster touchup grinds
- easier touch up in the field with a round file
- theory of more space for the chips
- looks much prettier
- may or may not help in cutting performance

 

[huskihl]

To me cleaning the gullet results:
- easier & faster touchup grinds
- easier touch up in the field with a round file
- theory of more space for the chips
- looks much prettier
- may or may not help in cutting performance

Pretty much my findings

 

[Squareground3691]

Fiber cutter ,Lol

 

[Wilhelm]

Drill bit picked out of the dull/scrap bin.


After 3-4 minutes of free hand eyeballed grinding on a simple white wheel without having it dressed first.
It is a 14.5mm HSS-Co5 drill bit and in my experience the little bit of blueing don't matter at all.
I could have avoided any blueing if I had taken more time to sharpen this bit, it would have taken 6-7 minutes instead.

 

[Partner]

This color is dry drilling or sharpening

 

[Wilhelm]

The first two pictures are dry drilling!

The third to fifth pictures are dry grinding/sharpening.
Tip was fried and I pressed a little bit too hard and too long causing the blueing.
I ground this drill bit just for fun, came out quite nice.

Dry drilling causes the entire drill bit tip to turn blue/black.