I saw something far worse happen to a brand new 28" chain, it took a few repair links but I ended up with a nice, almost new 24" chain instead.
I was boring a large red oak that leaned over 70° into some pines over a power line.
Shortening is a good option. If you run a lot of identical chains (pitch, gauge, type), it sometimes makes sense to designate a damaged one as a ‘donor chain’. Stuff happens.
At this point I feel like what I dont have is a better question! Lol
That shelf being way up high by the point is a product of necessity. It’s from thinning the wheel in order to keep it out of the tie straps. It doesn’t look like all the pretty pictures we see of what has become known as a proper square cutter, but they sure last a lot longer
Have to remember that the cutter bites down into the wood only as far at the raker will allow it to, so even if you only had a side plate 0.050 inch tall, it would still cut like it should
That's right. And all but the top .050 or so can be chamfered on the outer edge to help cutting performance by reducing drag in the cut.
That’s the thought behind my relief on the inside of the side plate to the outer edge of the raker. The saw just pulls itself through the wood noodling… Although I’ll tell you noodling raker height is much different than cross cut raker height….Chips look like rapid feed CNC large diameter drill shavings and do not clog up behind the clutch cover…
Do you have pictures of your chain?
You’ve got the right idea. Usually you square file from the top down so you’re looking at the corner. In your case, you’ll need some forward lean to get the cutter to bite. Right now, the bottom of your vertical side plate hits the wood before the working corner. You’ll need to back off your tooth stop to get it.
Thanks for your recommendation huskihl...I'll try rolling the file forward in the jig to get more forward lean on the side plate.
Here’s some more chaff you can sort through
opeforum.com
