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Old Stihl 044???

Brewz

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I have ordered a dual port muffler cover and it already has a new HD filter on it

I have repaired the flogged out screw hole and made a new tank vent. All I could smell was fuel when I tipped it on its side so the old hose was replaced with some nice new fuel hose

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Brewz

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Sounds good
I have ordered some bits to put the 066 that is bits in a bucket back together again to sell, as you said, I don't need 3
 

MustangMike

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Let me know how your tank vent works, when I tried to do one it failed (did not breath).

Also, if I'm following right, are you saying the Red Lever was on a 12 mm saw??? I thought all the red levers were 10s.
 

Ktoom

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If you are looking for an air leak a common spot is on the clutch side, there's a bushing that rides on the crankshaft and it will leak between the 2. Kind of an odd seal, bushing, crank setup on these.

I agree with that. I recently put my ugly 10mm 044 together. When i went to vac/pressure test it, that bushing was leaking. I ended up using some Yamabond to fix the issue.

I purchased a Meteor piston before I knew about that issue with them. Upon further review I decided to run it. I had a used oem 10mm piston and the locating pin was in the same spot as the Meteor.

So far she runs great after 2 tank fulls.
 

MustangMike

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Re the Red Lever on 12 mm, OK, I keep learning!

Wonder what the run of the Red Lever's was. The early 10s had black control levers.
 

Basher

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Let me know how your tank vent works, when I tried to do one it failed (did not breath).

Also, if I'm following right, are you saying the Red Lever was on a 12 mm saw??? I thought all the red levers were 10s.

Mike, you need to push the grub screws into the line, don`t screw them in as they will cut a thread inside the line and end up near airtight. Pushed in they will allow air to traverse around the grub screw threads.
 

MustangMike

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Mike, you need to push the grub screws into the line, don`t screw them in as they will cut a thread inside the line and end up near airtight. Pushed in they will allow air to traverse around the grub screw threads.

Makes sense, wish I thought of it! I also used vacuum line rubber, which was the correct diameter, but likely too soft.
 

Basher

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Tygon fuel line works ok for a vent line but don`t use Tygon for impulse lines, they soften with heat and will pop off the cylinder side nipple.
 

tla100

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So, one popped up on the other site, picked it up for $400 shipped. Got a 20" bar and a new chain sitting on the bench for it. 160 PSI. You guys got me thinking about the base gasket delete. Serial #119320.....Will keep reading on some mods. I got a MS440 that is pretty much stock other than dual port muffler. Any good threads on the gasket delete?
 

MustangMike

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At the risk of being redundant, here goes (cause you asked):

First, I would do a dp muff cover and low restriction air filter (like an HD-2) and re tune a bit richer. You will notice the difference.

With the saw breathing better, a timing advance of about 20/1000 off the key is nice.

Finally, if you want to go further yet, you can generally delete the base gasket w/o cutting the squish, but make sure you check it.

After that, IMO, it is time to send it to a pro.

I'm very happy with the way my stock one pulls a 20" bar, and the way my ported one pulls a 28" bar.
 

Brewz

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Box of parts turned up today from HL Supply.
Kicking myself as I forgot to order a chain sprocket..... Oh well, will have to source one locally

Got the case together, fitted up the brand Unknown piston and checked the squish with no gasket

0.034 to 0.035
Not good!

It must have been running close to .050 with the dirt encrusted gasket I took out of it

I sanded the base down by .015 and ended up with 0.019 to 0.020

I measured the thickness of each corner and wrote it on the cylinder giving me a reference to check against as I sanded.

Push, rotate 90* and push again and so on.

Smoothed out all the piston window casting lips and opened out the exhaust port a bit without changing and timing or inner port shape.

Port matched the muffler and gasket.

Now to file a bit off the fly wheel key, open up the new DP muffler front cover and rebuild the carb
 

Brewz

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I had to wind 3 bits of solder together to get a squish measurement
With the old gasket the squish would have been over 0.050
IMG_2092.jpg

Fitted up a new head shield under the muffler

IMG_2093.jpg

Took to the new Hyway muffler cover with a bur and file and doubled the size of the outlet.
Also made a new spark screen that is held in by the top screw and opened up the factory hole by abut 50%
The back half of the muffler has been painted with high temp paint

IMG_2094.jpg

IMG_2095.jpg

When it turned up it had 120 psi
Same cylinder, piston and rings, it now pulls 160 psi

IMG_2096.jpg
 

Brewz

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Got it together to a point where I could start it, and I couldn't resist

Fueled it up and filled up the oil to see if it leaks anywhere and started pulling the cord.

It took 7 or 8 cranks to get some fuel in the system before it popped.

Pushed the lever up to run mode, closing the throttle so it wouldn't rev (no clutch drum fitted) and it fired up first pull stone cold and idled

To say I was ecstatic is an understatement!

It idled like a limp wristed vegan before, now it sounds lively and kind of angry with a real high pressure pop to the evhaust note
 
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