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Old Stihl 044???

Brewz

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I need some help from my OPE brethren.

The clutch drum that came on the saw is new, but sits way too deep when it seats up against the clutch.
It seats in 1/8" further than it should and bends the oil pump worm gear spring back (which destroyed the one on it before we got it) and has cut a groove into the case.

I am reticent to spend the money on another clutch drum until I know if it is a problem with the clutch drum, or something else putting everything out of wack.

I have looked at Stihl parts manuals and I am not missing any parts, the clutch is an OEM Stihl 1128 clutch etc etc.

I have taken some measurements of the clutch drum I have and would REALLY appreciate it if some other folks with 044's could measure their clutch drums to compare dimensions.

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drf256

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If it's hitting nothing else, can you deepen the notch for the oil pump tang with a Dremel? It will just sit deeper.
 

drf256

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I'm not sure, is there a washer spacer that's supposed to be behind the clutch?

Is the drum OEM?
 

Brewz

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Yeah the washer spacer is there but its not thick enough.
I have done some measuring and have worked it out.
I need a 12mm (shaft size) washer to fit between the OEM spacer and the clutch to set the distance properly.

I couldn't find a suitable washer in the buckets of bits I have, which craps me to tears, but I will go get one at the hardware store in the morning.

I might even get to run it in some timber tomorrow
 

dall

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your oil line is almost cut also how is the bearings for the clutch and whats the number on the clutch
 

junkman

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do not use a spacer to try to fix it ,your crank will leak vacuum at the bushing seal ,try smacking the flywheel side of the crank with a dead blow hammer or brass hammer ,see if that sets the crank bearing against the oil pump ,you have a bearing alignment problem by the looks of it ,and make sure the oil pump drive wire rolls into the notch correctly on the clutch drum ,otherwise it will melt the oil pump drive plastic gear when start it up .
 

Basher

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I need some help from my OPE brethren.

The clutch drum that came on the saw is new, but sits way too deep when it seats up against the clutch.
It seats in 1/8" further than it should and bends the oil pump worm gear spring back (which destroyed the one on it before we got it) and has cut a groove into the case.

I am reticent to spend the money on another clutch drum until I know if it is a problem with the clutch drum, or something else putting everything out of wack.

I have looked at Stihl parts manuals and I am not missing any parts, the clutch is an OEM Stihl 1128 clutch etc etc.

I have taken some measurements of the clutch drum I have and would REALLY appreciate it if some other folks with 044's could measure their clutch drums to compare dimensions.

View attachment 15013

View attachment 15015

View attachment 15014

View attachment 15016


Your drum is deeper than any of the 7 I just measured here on my bench.
Pict #1 measures ,0.67>0.69
Pict#2 measures , 0.720> 0.750
Pict#3 measures , 1.099>1.114/1.116
 
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Brewz

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I am working on a spacer to seat the clutch out a couple mm to stop the back of the drum rubbing, and will need to deepen the worm gear spring slot so it's not pushing down on it.

The drum will work, it just needs to be set up right.

If it ever gets a new drum, all it will need is the spacer washer taken out.
 

Canadian farm boy

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Watch your sprocket and bar alignment. There's usually room for the rim sprocket to float on the clutch drum spines but....
 

Brewz

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good point cfb

I will check that.

Edit: Yep alignment is good. There is a couple mm for the sprocket to move either way.

I ran it this arvo and it runs great.
I need to get it out somewhere where the noise wont upset the neighbours and tune it properly.
I think the idle circuit is a bit rich as it blows a bit of smoke when I open the throttle after it idles for a bit.
 
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Basher

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Actually I would just ditch that clutch drum. I know that is easy for a guy with a bucket full of drums to say but it would be better all around/safer for all the components. The best fix for that drum would to be to remove some of the rim edge that is cutting into the case and oil line, a belt sander, mini grinder or just grind it off on a bench grinder. Accuracy is not real important on that back edge, deepen the oiler drive notch about 1/8" and remove about a 1/16" off the drum, test and see if it clears the case, if not remove a little more.
 

Brewz

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All I did was make a thicker spacer/washer to go behind the clutch which holds it all out about 1 or 2mm.

I made sure the clutch turns without turning the oil pump worm drive

Tuned it this morning and it works fine
 

Brewz

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Ended up getting a new Oregon clutch drum and it is now all together and running.
Just needs a tune and some timber to cut.

Question for those running an 044....... what sort of WOT RPM can I expect?

I will tune to sound, not revs but I would like to hear what others are getting from a relatively stock saw.
 

hseII

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Ended up getting a new Oregon clutch drum and it is now all together and running.
Just needs a tune and some timber to cut.

Question for those running an 044....... what sort of WOT RPM can I expect?

I will tune to sound, not revs but I would like to hear what others are getting from a relatively stock saw.
14k to 14,4

Did you bump the Crank like Junkman told you too?

He's Right.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Brewz

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Yes junkmans advice was spot on

A couple of love taps and it is all together using the stock clutch washer.

I ditched the dodgy clutch drum and fitted an Oregon unit, and it fits perfectly.
The worm gear spring sits neatly in the slot with no lateral pressure.

I really appreciate all the help folks!!!

This one was a bit of a problem child compared to the other saws I have rebuilt but has come together in the end and was a fantastic learning experience for me.

Cheers
 
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