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Bunch of random pics of cutters

Squish9

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If you're looking for as much consistency as possible between sharpening with a file and a saw chain grinder, you can try to dress the wheel to match the size of the file you prefer to use. This is what Stihl recommends for their grinders.
I think that by seeing these instructions and pics you will get the idea.


View attachment 436035


This dressed (rounded) part is in contact with the top plate during grinding.
View attachment 436041

In addition, some grinders equipped with a tilting vise have auxiliary markings for a small correction of the cutting & top sharpening angle when the vise is tilted.
View attachment 436039

You really don't need a sliding vise to get good results. It is more useful for corrections related to wear of the wheel and reduction of its diameter.
511AX, although it also has a sliding vise, uses the tilt to set the "10° down angle".
Grinders (e.g., 620, Jolly Evo) that do not have a tilting vise, but do have a sliding vise, can have a scale in degrees 15-0-15 for the down angle. The USG has a scale in millimeters, and I think it may have a mistake (not the first one) in the chart when it comes to the direction of moving the vise (or we misunderstand the chart).

For me, the most important parameter I can control is how low I lower the wheel. This determines the cutting angle and side plate obtained. By lowering the wheel lower you get sharper angles and more hook. Knowing this, you can get good results even on grinders like the 310 and its cheap copies.
Very expensive automatic grinders have neither a tilting nor sliding vise.
You usually only set on them the top plate sharpening angle, the cutting angle and how deep the wheel goes down.
Thanks for the red mark on my forehead. I read this the other day but it didn't really click till 10 minutes ago and I face palmed myself pretty good.

I knew I didn't know much about using a grinder but didn't think I was that stupid untill now. Just played around with the grinder for a few minutes and, yep, it all works exactly how you described.

I always used the profiled section of the wheel to form the lower part of the side plate and the flat section of the wheel to form the top plate and upper section of the side plate. Essentially having a 55-60 straight side plate. Using the profiled section allows the angles to be tweaked to whatever you want. Not sure how I didn't know this
 

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Just fating about and had a play around with some softwood today not a common thing for me, that or they go in the burn pile lol
And was messing around with a 2 in one and yeah it delivered reasonable results. I can't see how a home owner with very little experience sharpening couldn't get the job done with one?
I found it cut across the grain well but cutting with the grain (noodling) it was awful had to force it. I'd take two swipes of the rakers to have it more to my liking noodling.
Is a cheap Chinese chisel chain 3/8 low pro and bar can't complain really but definitely softer than say Stihl chain the little bit of dirt in the bark from snigging em out nocked the edge around in short order.

Anyways it got me thinking.. A question for guys that use progressive depth gauge guides and cutters all different lengths. Does that still produce wide chips like in the pic still joined together because the left and right cutters are close to the same length and height working together.
Does it even matter will cutters different lengths and heights still produce the same type of chips? In my minds eye they should right?

20241221_193539.jpg

20241221_194806.jpg


Am going to attack this next might leave the ms172 at home and bring the big gun ms211 for this one lol

20241221_195923.jpg
 
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pbillyi69

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most of my chain make long chips like that. my cutters are different lengths i dont use a depth guages i just file them as needed. i do run square chain and use a grinder to sharpen them. as long as my chain cuts good i dont worry too much about it. some time ago i was using a grinder that got knocked over and it was making differnt angles and taking more material off of one side which made all of the cutters shorter on that side. they still cut good but in big rounds it would cut crooked
 

Squish9

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Just fating about and had a play around with some softwood today not a common thing for me, that or they go in the burn pile lol
And was messing around with a 2 in one and yeah it delivered reasonable results. I can't see how a home owner with very little experience sharpening couldn't get the job done with one?
I found it cut across the grain well but cutting with the grain (noodling) it was awful had to force it. I'd take two swipes of the rakers to have it more to my liking noodling.
Is a cheap Chinese chisel chain 3/8 low pro and bar can't complain really but definitely softer than say Stihl chain the little bit of dirt in the bark from snigging em out nocked the edge around in short order.

Anyways it got me thinking.. A question for guys that use progressive depth gauge guides and cutters all different lengths. Does that still produce wide chips like in the pic still joined together because the left and right cutters are close to the same length and height working together.
Does it even matter will cutters different lengths and heights still produce the same type of chips? In my minds eye they should right?

View attachment 443754

View attachment 443755


Am going to attack this next might leave the ms172 at home and bring the big gun ms211 for this one lol

View attachment 443757
Be careful handling that monster of a saw, it will wear you out quickly!

2 in 1's do a decent job on most chains but they really butcher 46RS. In the smaller stuff trying to out file one is a mission. They do cut well
 

rogue60

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most of my chain make long chips like that. my cutters are different lengths i dont use a depth guages i just file them as needed. i do run square chain and use a grinder to sharpen them. as long as my chain cuts good i dont worry too much about it. some time ago i was using a grinder that got knocked over and it was making differnt angles and taking more material off of one side which made all of the cutters shorter on that side. they still cut good but in big rounds it would cut crooked
I don't mean length I'm talking about the width of the chips. The left and right chips staying together from the cutters being close to uniform in height and set.
I've seen it before with my square chain in pine but it even has the corners from the side plates intact I put up pics years ago will see if I can find them.
I understand chains with different lengths cutters still cut. I was just trying to work out in my head what is happening in the kerf when cutters have different hight and set.
I guess I can file a chain like that and examine the chips produced.
Stay tuned lol
 

rogue60

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Be careful handling that monster of a saw, it will wear you out quickly!

2 in 1's do a decent job on most chains but they really butcher 46RS. In the smaller stuff trying to out file one is a mission. They do cut well
Running and owning only 90cc plus saws most my working life. I really enjoy messing around with the little home owner saws and applying all I've learnt to them.
I might dust the cobwebs off me big saws one day lol
 

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rogue60

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Just messing around in pine with a two in one files are 4mm.
Cuts alright is chisel 3/8 low pro the flat rakers don't bother me. I never shape my rakers anyway the added time doing that was never worth it for me the chain still does what I want it to do skipping that step.
The only thing I don't like is I can't give it 10 down like my normal hand filing.
For a very limited skilled home owner at filing I can't see how they couldn't get decent results with a two in one for 3/8 low pro it's a very simple sharpening process.
Saws a 35cc ms211

20250118_111611.jpg


 

Squish9

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Just messing around in pine with a two in one files are 4mm.
Cuts alright is chisel 3/8 low pro the flat rakers don't bother me. I never shape my rakers anyway the added time doing that was never worth it for me the chain still does what I want it to do skipping that step.
The only thing I don't like is I can't give it 10 down like my normal hand filing.
For a very limited skilled home owner at filing I can't see how they couldn't get decent results with a two in one for 3/8 low pro it's a very simple sharpening process.
Saws a 35cc ms211

View attachment 447029


I haven't tried with the LP version but the 404 2 in 1 will work with a tilt. It's makes the depth gauge look a bit funny but works

Most of the tree lopers I know just run 2 in 1's these days, they are so stupidly easy to use and get close enough that it's not worth teaching guys to use a file
 

rogue60

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I haven't tried with the LP version but the 404 2 in 1 will work with a tilt. It's makes the depth gauge look a bit funny but works

Most of the tree lopers I know just run 2 in 1's these days, they are so stupidly easy to use and get close enough that it's not worth teaching guys to use a file
Interesting I'll try 10 down. Maybe do a couple strokes flat to sort the rakers then move to 10 down? I'll experiment.
I used to teach the young guys at the sawmill how to file some could pick it up and some couldn't unteachable! lol. A two in one would have made it so much easier. Would have freed up more time to teach them the importance of keeping the saw out of the dirt lol
 
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