Bunch of random pics of cutters

[Squareground3691]

I see you guys get witness marks on them these days. All the 46K I have found is the old stuff with no marks

Came from the Aussie Land ,

 

[Squish9]

Came from the Aussie Land ,

Dam, I have never seen it like that before. Now I need to track some down. Did it come from a guy in western Australia?

 

[Wilhelm]

As far back as I can remember Stihl chains had witness marks.

Maybe I am not yet as old as I feel I am?
Then again, maybe I am just getting senile.

 

[Squareground3691]

Dam, I have never seen it like that before. Now I need to track some down. Did it come from a guy in western Australia?

Bunbury ,Australia

 

[Squish9]

Bunbury ,Australia

Thank you I know who that will be

 

[Wilhelm]

Dolmar 496 (Oregon Vanguard, modified)


Dolmar 099


Round ground, going for the "sickle" profile.

 

[davidwyby]

@Squish9 I have something to test if you’re so inclined. It will be another month before it’s cool enough to want to mess with it here.

Effect of offsetting vs. not offsetting the base on the grinder. Stihl offsets and Oregon doesn’t (like old LGX). My USG is made to be able to offset. It creates what I think would be a more durable, better supported grind but I wonder if that theory is true and about speed. Both grinds would have to be tried on the same brand chain of course as it seems stihl metal holds up better.

 

[Wilhelm]

Husqvarna X-Cut, round ground.
There is still a little bit of factory grind in that cutter.

 

[Wilhelm]

I shortly played with +/-10 offset which my Maxx grinder supports.
I did not notice any difference in cutting nor durability in the turkey oak I buck the most so I just stay at 0 offset.

I did notice noticeable durability increase while maintaining high cutting performance by:
- going from 35° to 25°
- lowering the wheel deeper into the cutter creating a "sickle" looking profile

 

[Squish9]

@Squish9 I have something to test if you’re so inclined. It will be another month before it’s cool enough to want to mess with it here.

Effect of offsetting vs. not offsetting the base on the grinder. Stihl offsets and Oregon doesn’t (like old LGX). My USG is made to be able to offset. It creates what I think would be a more durable, better supported grind but I wonder if that theory is true and about speed. Both grinds would have to be tried on the same brand chain of course as it seems stihl metal holds up better.

I have limited grinder experience so don't take my word for this. I have never been able to replicate a similar result using tilt angle on a grinder that I can get with a file.

Don't know why, I know the result I'm looking for and can get teeth that have that shape but it just doesn't work out as well as it should. It must be something to do with profiling the wheel in the right way.

I got 25ft of Oregon 20lgx for 31 bucks off Amazon the other day so I'm willing to waste some trying as well

 

[Squish9]

These 3 were all done with the same 7/32 round file. Just showing the different shapes that can be created with different file height and tilt.

 

[davidwyby]

@Squish9 i was referring to offsetting the base in and out, not tilt.

 

[Squish9]

@Squish9 i was referring to offsetting the base in and out, not tilt.

Sorry I missed that part. I can't do that with the POS grinder I have so not sure what the end result is.

I think the jolly Evo grinders have the slide feature as well? I have been considering buying one but I honestly don't grind enough to justify replacing what I have

 

[Wilhelm]

AMA Maxx Pro grinder, I no longer file actively thanks to this unit.

 

[Squish9]

View attachment 435254

AMA Maxx Pro grinder, I no longer file actively thanks to this unit.

Thank you, I have seen these being used before but kept forgetting the name. Looks like a really good design for a grinder.

Do these take the Oregon style wheels?

 

[Wilhelm]

Thank you, I have seen these being used before but kept forgetting the name. Looks like a really good design for a grinder.

Do these take the Oregon style wheels?

The AMA Maxx Pro has its pros & cons, but it is miles ahead of generic cheap supermarket grinders with fixed angles.
The most notable pro is You always grind cutters inwards without reversing the motor and having spark spat at You.
Many that are familiar with the AMA grinder will claim it is sloppy, which is true to an extent - but once You work with the sloppyness it has no ill effect on grinding results.

If You have David make You contact/carrier plates You can mount nearly any wheel You want.
I made an adapter to utilize worn bandsaw grinder Weiler wheels.

Having my morning coffee right now, will check later what the wheel specs are.

 

[Wilhelm]

Standard wheel size, 145mm x 22.23mm x 3.2/4.8/6.0mm


Weiler bandsaw grinding wheels with custom made contact plate

 

[Wilhelm]

Oregon chipper .404"
Factory grind

 

[Wilhelm]

My grind, going to 25° and a more pronounced beak

 

[el33t]

I have limited grinder experience so don't take my word for this. I have never been able to replicate a similar result using tilt angle on a grinder that I can get with a file.

If you're looking for as much consistency as possible between sharpening with a file and a saw chain grinder, you can try to dress the wheel to match the size of the file you prefer to use. This is what Stihl recommends for their grinders.
I think that by seeing these instructions and pics you will get the idea.





This dressed (rounded) part is in contact with the top plate during grinding.


In addition, some grinders equipped with a tilting vise have auxiliary markings for a small correction of the cutting & top sharpening angle when the vise is tilted.


You really don't need a sliding vise to get good results. It is more useful for corrections related to wear of the wheel and reduction of its diameter.
511AX, although it also has a sliding vise, uses the tilt to set the "10° down angle".
Grinders (e.g., 620, Jolly Evo) that do not have a tilting vise, but do have a sliding vise, can have a scale in degrees 15-0-15 for the down angle. The USG has a scale in millimeters, and I think it may have a mistake (not the first one) in the chart when it comes to the direction of moving the vise (or we misunderstand the chart).

For me, the most important parameter I can control is how low I lower the wheel. This determines the cutting angle and side plate obtained. By lowering the wheel lower you get sharper angles and more hook. Knowing this, you can get good results even on grinders like the 310 and its cheap copies.
Very expensive automatic grinders have neither a tilting nor sliding vise.
You usually only set on them the top plate sharpening angle, the cutting angle and how deep the wheel goes down.