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Squareground3691

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Makes sense for .404" I guess. ;)

I need to reinstate the .404" chains I have, run them on my primary PS-7900.
I shelves them because I couldn't get good cutting performance filing them.
Now that I have a grinder things might be better.
They prefer them 👍IMG_2084.jpeg
 

davidwyby

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David, are you using a salmon color wheel? Just wondering cuz the Finish is kind of rough. Almost a serrated edge?
I don’t have a square grinder…that was your neighbor. Coarse wheel for converting round to square. I hear white is the finest.
 

davidwyby

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I have a theory that finer and maybe a micro bevel like when sharpening an axe might help, but not sure the best way or if worth the hassle
 

Moparmyway

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I have a theory that finer and maybe a micro bevel like when sharpening an axe might help, but not sure the best way or if worth the hassle
Not worth the hassle from my experience.


Keep your gullets clear and not grabby, set all rakers to the sharp cutter behind them (stop right there for good work chains)

Now if you really havta mess with your chain, clip the heels. Next up on my list, if you just gotta do more is to give a super quick stoning.

If you’re going full race, start flap disking them proud rivets and give the straps their dog bone profile. I keep these kinds of things away from work chains because you are definitely compromising the strength of the chain with these types of modifications and chaps are not an option.
 

Wilhelm

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Fresh round grind on my only Windsor loop, 24" 84DL 3/8" full comp full chisel.
No teeth missing or bent yet, very good chain.
Once the teeth get this short I position the wheel higher for less hook, keeps the cutters from bending.

IMG_20240303_180809~2.jpgIMG_20240303_180746~2.jpgIMG_20240303_180740~2.jpg
 
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