066 Rebuild, Port Job etc

[Brewz]

I was just looking at Randy's pics of how he cuts the squish and then the base on the cylinder

making an alloy plate to hold it to cut the squish will be easy but making the mandrill to hold the cylinder to cut the base wont be.
I dont have a lathe and will have to get things set up to go ask a mate to machine it for me.

Is there another way to cut the base without making a solid poly mandrill to hold the cylinder internally ?

 

[Brewz]

Also, I have been searching on evilbay for a little 90 deg pneumatic cutter for doing the upper transfers properly but cant find anything suitable.

Anyone got a link to something worth buying?

 

[jmssaws]

I use a cc specialties right angle but I've done way more with a cut off wheel.

The brown dremel sanding wheels work great, stack 2 together.

 

[Brewz]

Yeah I did that with my 026 jug.
Should be easier in the 066 with bigger ports and more room to work with.

I found one but its a lot of money when i wont be doing a lot or porting so will use the grinding wheels and stones and take my time

 

[jmssaws]

What time is it there?

6.17 am here

 

[Brewz]

Are bridge ports worth doing n this model?

 

[Brewz]

11:19PM

I have to work tomorrow so its bed time for me

 

[jmssaws]

Bridges can help.

 

[Brewz]

Last question for tonight
Case seals..... Are aftermarket ok or should I invest in OEM

 

[Brewz]

Pulled the old girl down this arvo. The poor old case is a bit worse for wear with pitting and a large amount of material removed by a rubbing chain at the base of the bar mount.

It will have to do for now though.

I ant get the Polly fly wheel off with the old fashioned pry and tap the shaft method so will order a proper removal tool.

I have a case separator planned in my head, I just need a length of Chanel iron and a long bolt...... Will post pics when I make it

I will have to work out to how to attach my degree wheel to it as I don't have an old drill chuck. I might just take the chuck off my pneumatic drill for now and use that.
I would like to measure the timing on the AM P&C but on close inspection they look like cheap rubbish.

Will post some pics up later when I get on my computer

I am still keen to know people's opinions of the after market case seal

 

[mdavlee]

I've used some aftermarket seals with no problems.

 

[Brewz]

I just placed an order with HLS for most of the parts I need.
Using the Hyway seal kit and got some spare crank case seals cause Murphy's law says I will damage one

I cant upload the photos of the case because my phone is on strike and wont turn on...... DAMN YOU STEVE JOBS!!!!!!!!!
It's one only apple device I have and I only have it because work gave it to me.... POS!

I have been looking at the AM cases that can be had for about $95 here in Australia which is preety good, but I am very cautious of the AM stuff.... its just so cheap and nasty.
I am wondering if I am better off with the worn out devil I know?

I think I will use it.
It's not pretty but it works
I would rather pay to have a good OEM case sent from the states that bolt all my good bits to a Chinese POS.

I also ordered a Max flow green filter and will give it a go over the HD2 filter frame with the stock filter material removed.
If the K&N doesn't work out, or I need to cut in the rain, I will run that.

 

[Brewz]

The other issue I found is a nasty alloy imperfection inside the WJ-67 carb.

It is right beside the main jet and is about the same size as the main jet, like a gray alloy bubble

Stupid phone, I want to upload the pics

 

[Brewz]

YAY..... phone is working again

Oil pump area is a tad corroded but is ok for service



Damaged and repaired screw hole holding on the dog spikes



Corrosion and pitting on the front of the case.
It doesn't leak but I wonder how much meat is left on the bone?



Bottom section of the bar mount area under the chain tensioner has been ground away by a skipped chain.
Looking at this picture now, I am wondering if those bar mount studs need replacing too?



Flywheel side looks good but the damn thing just wont fall off.
Have ordered a tool to remove it.

 

[Brewz]

Pics of the odd imperfection in the Walbro WJ67 carb.

I wonder if I can claim on warranty?









Onyone got any thoughts on what I should do about the little "extra bit" in the carb?

 

[Terry Syd]

That is one ugly booger on the venturi, I'm wondering how that got past quality control. I'd probably punch out the discharge nozzle in order to keep it safe, and then take a small bit on a Dremel and clean up the booger, then punch the nozzle back in.

As far as the flywheel, you could might try giving it a shot of WD 40 and let it set over night. Then put the nut back on the end of the crankshaft (to protect the threads) and then grasp the flywheel with a set of vice grips and hit the nut to try and shock it. You have to hold the saw up off the bench by the vice grips hanging onto the flywheel. I've found the shock will dislodge the flywheel from the crankshaft.

 

[Moparmyway]

I would only thin it a little and shape it for airflow around it ............. its probably a passage from/for the metering chamber

 

[Redfin]

That bump has a passage in it. I asked Jason about it before I ground my 69. I didnt mess with it.

 

[Redfin]

 

[jmssaws]

That bump is supposed to be there don't grind on it there is a passage in there