066 Rebuild, Port Job etc

[angelo c]

Brews, I've never worked with a velo stack but a 261 carb has a similar "issue" in that a socket will not fit. I use a cheap changeable tip screwdriver tool with the tip removed and its thin enough to get in to the 8mm nut.
Nice work on the clearancing.

 

[Brewz]

I had to line it up perfect and clamp it down tight in the drill press.
got the drill spinning at about 1300 RPM and it did the job well.
With the soft aluminum it would have probably worked better with even more drill speed

 

[stihl_head1982]

I dont know what the people that sell things are thinking when they make them.

The velocity stack did not have enough clearance for a socket to turn the nut that holds it and the carb down.
I guess it is made for a screw and screwdriver?

Tonight I made a flat base drill from a 13/64th drill bit which measured 11.8mm to get clearance for the socket.

I ground the drill flat, then bevveled each side slightly to create the 2 cutting edges. It worked perfectly first go.
I also took the holes a few mm deeper to get a full nut worth of thread out the top.

View attachment 10667

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View attachment 10669

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View attachment 10671

Now I just need to put it in a mates lathe and bore the inside out to match the carb

I love it. Improvise, adapt and overcome!

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

I dont know what the people that sell things are thinking when they make them.

The velocity stack did not have enough clearance for a socket to turn the nut that holds it and the carb down.
I guess it is made for a screw and screwdriver?

Tonight I made a flat base drill from a 13/64th drill bit which measured 11.8mm to get clearance for the socket.

I ground the drill flat, then bevveled each side slightly to create the 2 cutting edges. It worked perfectly first go.
I also took the holes a few mm deeper to get a full nut worth of thread out the top.

View attachment 10667

Now I just need to put it in a mates lathe and bore the inside out to match the carb

nice job on the drill conversion! turned that sucker from a drill into an end mill... and ground in fluted cutting edges. nice work! nice work, indeed! I did some milling yesterday, too. used a 3/8" end mill and a 1/8th also... but mine were stock tool house supply items... but more on that story later...

don't forget to blend in all your sharp edges on the sides of the relieved areas...

end mills for R8 collet...

 

[Brewz]

When i bought the saw, it had a new AM P&C on it of unknown brand or quality.
I have just removed the jug and discovered the quality

POOR!

First alarm bell was the odd pattern on the top of the piston


I took a look inside the cylinder and what do you know...... it only has a squish band on one side.
Fantastic machining quality!


odd wear marks, poor internal finish


The inside of the case is clean, plenty of oil but is the blue base of the rod normal?



I also think I have a leaking decomp valve..... will replace

 

[Brewz]

Also discovered that the top ring has been leaking past



It will be a better saw with an OEM P&C.

 

[jmssaws]

I'll get ya my PayPal Tuesday and get it shipped out.

 

[Brewz]

Another piece of the puzzle turned up today.

Perfect!

 

[VinceGU05]

Maybe the big end is blue due to the reason why it has an AM top end on it now.

 

[drf256]

Some Stihl's have a factory hardened large rod end. I don't think it's in your 066 model though.

 

[Brewz]

So...... if all were well, it should not be blue?

 

[VinceGU05]

084 not blue.



Just broken.
Just working a 460 and 181. Neither are blue.

 

[Moparmyway]

Stock saws did not come with blued rod ends, big end or small end .......... they get blue from getting hot

 

[drf256]

I think 362's have blued large end rods from the factory. I certainly may be wrong on that.

 

[Brewz]

Ok, that answers my question... thanks folks.

Now, question is, once blue, it is safe?
I have worked it hard for about 10 to 15 tanks of fuel and it feels smooth and tight with no movement.

I am seriously considering putting it back together and moving it on.

I have the low mile 066 on it way that I plan to do the build on as I want to spend the time on a saw that will be with me for a long time, and I am not feeling that this poor old girl will be.
Kind of thinking I may just keep an 066 and 026 as a firewood combo and sell the old 066 and my 039 to finance an 880 or 090 for slabbing as I want to build some stuff now that I have enough firewood for years.

 

[Moparmyway]

I been running blued rods in my 90 cc saws, no problems
One has the big end blued, one has the small end blued, and two of them dont have either end blued
They all run pretty strong and have been nothing but reliable

 

[Brewz]

Ok, sounds fair.

Another question...... Would you port an 066 differently to run a long bar (36 to 42") for milling to what you would to run a shorter 25 to 30" for cutting firewood?

 

[Moparmyway]

Ok, sounds fair.

Another question...... Would you port an 066 differently to run a long bar (36 to 42") for milling to what you would to run a shorter 25 to 30" for cutting firewood?

Yup, a little less intake duration helps keep the torque for the long bars

 

[angelo c]

When i bought the saw, it had a new AM P&C on it of unknown brand or quality.
I have just removed the jug and discovered the quality

POOR!


The inside of the case is clean, plenty of oil but is the blue base of the rod normal?

View attachment 11209

I also think I have a leaking decomp valve..... will replace
View attachment 11213

The Bluing is typical of over heating. I have seen some that were fine looking like that and some that came that way in a MS261. My concern is the wear mark on the crank next to the big end bearing. I just checked three I have here and they don't look the same ?

@jmssaws ...what ya think ?

 

[jmssaws]

I wouldn't worry about the rod being blue,most i see are.