Who's running 592s and 585s?

[huskihl]

Welp, I could use some pointers on debugging a 592. I bought mine in june of '22. Runs of 24 or 36" tsumura bar. DOM April 2022. Not a daily use saw at the tree service, its for my own personal sidework, and sometimes I throw it on the truck if I know we're gonna need multiple big saws on a tree job at the tree service. By August of '22, the protective collar around the oil adjustment bolt broke, and oil just flowed out of the control bolt. Took it to a shop and they replaced it under warranty. New oiler didnt oil for *s-word, my bar was changing colors along the rails so i hung it up and took it back to the shop. They did something something and called it good. Seemed to oil, i mean oil now leaves the tank and the chain is oiled-ish. Bought a 36" tsumura bar around July of 2023 for a 5' Sugar Maple take down. Big fat sucker at the base with maybe a foot of taper over 15'. Whole lotta wood. Got my notch in, start the back cut and the bar is smoking, the chain is derailing. Tension is right where it needs to be, brand new chain. Hung the f-er up and grabbed the 395 with a 32" bar to get the tree on the ground. Cant figure out this oiling situation. I've ordered a new pump, might mod it for flow, waiting on a clutch tool to pull it apart, seal up the o rings with some RTV. I've read about worm gears slicing oil lines, ill check all that. The OTHER debug is that my saw has no power at WOT under load. As in, free revving it sings just fine. Put 1' of bar in, she cuts and holds power. Bury the bar and it has no power.

Coil is tight and gapped. Changed the spark plug. air filter is clean. Pulled the muffler, no scoring on the exhaust side of the piston, some grey ghost streaks along the intake side of cylinder wall, nothing that will catch a toothpick. The Fuel vent line that comes out the side of the tank and into the carb box popped off, i plugged that in but notice a whistling sound. If i crimp over the vent on the tank side it goes away. Bad vent? how do i clean it, outside in or inside out? does the vent even impact fuel flow while running? thought it was just EPA crap. I have a new fuel filter, purge bulb hose and fuel line on the way. I cant understand how the saw would rev fine out of the wood then fall on its face under load. I tried 5 minutes of idle then ran it down a log with the tip buried to tune it in. only mod was removing the spark screen. Ideas?

Never had one that didn’t have any power.
But to check the purge system, put a tight-fitting hose onto the carb barb that goes to the purge bubble and plug it. If any air can get into that line it won’t run correctly

 

[Maintenance Chief]

If its not getting enough or any oil in the bar rail it will absolutely stall it down in the wood!
Regardless of the saw if its not getting oil to the bar it's going to suffer through a cut.
I was blasting through 6-8" cedar stumps with a PM700 and was pushing for the end of the day, I knew I was low on oil but by the 3rd dry stump the chain would just lock up! I had to go back to the truck for oil .

 

[vrex]

If the vent isnt working right it can play a part in the saw not running properly. I'd just replace it. Have you changed the purge bulb and hoses yet? did that make a difference? Has this issue just started or has it always been doing it?

issue just started, I have a purge hose, fuel line and fuel filter on order but not the bulb itself. I'll add that in, might as well (i dont have a vacuum tester to check its integrity). Parts are back ordered, @Gentleman kindly got me sorted out

 

[vrex]

Never had one that didn’t have any power.
But to check the purge system, put a tight-fitting hose onto the carb barb that goes to the purge bubble and plug it. If any air can get into that line it won’t run correctly

Thanks Kevin, are you saying replace the oem line line with fuel line and run it or is this a vacuum/pressure test?

 

[vrex]

If its not getting enough or any oil in the bar rail it will absolutely stall it down in the wood!
Regardless of the saw if its not getting oil to the bar it's going to suffer through a cut.
I was blasting through 6-8" cedar stumps with a PM700 and was pushing for the end of the day, I knew I was low on oil but by the 3rd dry stump the chain would just lock up! I had to go back to the truck for oil .

I've got all new oiler system parts on order, I sprayed took the drum off and sprayed the pocket around the oiler out and it looks like there's some oil weeping around the oiler output hose. There isnt a puddle of oil in there, and theres a sheen of oil running down towards the oil adjustment bolt, on the case itself. So that needs addressing. I also see gouge marks from where the worm wheel has worn off the casting on the oil pump, so another When I get the clutch tool I'll cross check the PN on the parts that the shop installed is actually correct for the saw, i recall reading that theres some commonality with the 385/390? The scorch on the bar is indicative of what you're saying, not enough oil, chain grabbing and seizing up/bogging down. But it does free rev just fine, so hows that work?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I've got all new oiler system parts on order, I sprayed took the drum off and sprayed the pocket around the oiler out and it looks like there's some oil weeping around the oiler output hose. There isnt a puddle of oil in there, and theres a sheen of oil running down towards the oil adjustment bolt, on the case itself. So that needs addressing. I also see gouge marks from where the worm wheel has worn off the casting on the oil pump, so another When I get the clutch tool I'll cross check the PN on the parts that the shop installed is actually correct for the saw, i recall reading that theres some commonality with the 385/390? The scorch on the bar is indicative of what you're saying, not enough oil, chain grabbing and seizing up/bogging down. But it does free rev just fine, so hows that work?

The tooth design of chain is such that it rocks back into the rail when its in wood , it really grabs hard! Free wheeling around the bar wouldn't have a friction effect like that.
You might be able to see sparks off the bar piss revving it at night?

 

[huskihl]

Thanks Kevin, are you saying replace the oem line line with fuel line and run it or is this a vacuum/pressure test?

Take a piece of small (trimmer?) fuel line and stick it onto the carb port and plug the end of it and see if the issues go away. That primer bulb port on the side of the carburetor seems too small to me and fits the hose too loose. I had one that wouldn’t run right and was sucking air right there. I put a tighter fitting fuel line on it and crimped the end off and it ran perfectly. So it’s just a test to see if it’s sucking air at that fitting

 

[Huskynut78]

I much prefer tuning my own saws, it only takes a few seconds if you know what you're doing, and it's not like you tuning every few minutes. I would say going down to a dealer to have a saw hooked up, would take more time than it would turning the saw once everyday for a year. And that's considering you even have a competent dealer nearby, and they don't charge you, and if they have the time to do it on the spot.

Now don't get me wrong I like the concept all in all, and just cutting without ever messing around is attractive, most professionals don't like to mess around and many don't even know how to tune a carburetor. It's just at this poit there have been lingering hiccups.

Out of the forty or so AT and Mtronic saws I've owned, ran and ported, for me only three models of them consistently tuned themselves to my liking. The 576, 572 and the fuel injected 500i, and one could argue the 500i is too rich without plenty of load, but that's reall just how Stihl limits the light load RPM.

The 562, and Mark-1 550 were a total mess. The 441 would constantly hunt for tune under load, the early 661 was a mess as well, they now are real good, close to perfect, but the early ones left a bad taste with some. The 462's have overall been very good, they can occasionally miss a beat when warm starting, but that's few and far between. 261 had the solenoid issues most Mtronic models did, and I find them to still run a little rich at idle, better rich than lean like the 550.

When it comes to the 592, I simply don't have enough trigger time on the saw to pass my full judgment, but so far the only complaint is it bounces hard on the limiter, it starts very easy cold, warm or hot, and accelerates lightning fast. It's also a sample size of one. [emoji3577]

How many tanks of fuel did it take to break in? My 592 seems fairly sluggish and doesn't seem like it's turning enough rpm. I maybe have about 5 tanks through it.

 

[Crocky28]

 

[DC1072]

And honestly of it was just a want thing I'd have many more saws just to have them. But in all reality 592 wise is not a need for me. I have a good running 394 two 2100s, a ported 390 and with my 572 and 500i they mostly collect dust. With the exception of giant stuff I'll drag out the 2101 with the 50inch or the 2100 with the 42inch. But honestly the capability of the 572 and 500 can really fill alot of gaps. And it's not lack of cutting big wood here. Because I'm rarely in small stuff.

Aw, very good choice saw
I would like to get a 2100 just to have it

 

[DC1072]

How many tanks of fuel did it take to break in? My 592 seems fairly sluggish and doesn't seem like it's turning enough rpm. I maybe have about 5 tanks through it.

issue just started, I have a purge hose, fuel line and fuel filter on order but not the bulb itself. I'll add that in, might as well (i dont have a vacuum tester to check its integrity). Parts are back ordered, @Gentleman kindly got me sorted out

Yeah, unfortunately I ordered my hose back in April to the deal. Never called me never told me it was in still don’t have it. My dealers suck in my area.
I really gotta find a good dealer that cares and they know what they’re doing

 

[DC1072]

My go to saw is a tweaked 572 and the 585 get pulled out for the bigger stuff. And yup what ever project saw happens to be in play , last year it was a blue 395 and the 572...the 572 stuck. This year its a 575 and yet another 572 build I'm developing.

I like your videos. Tell Bob I said hi.

Never had one that didn’t have any power.
But to check the purge system, put a tight-fitting hose onto the carb barb that goes to the purge bubble and plug it. If any air can get into that line it won’t run correctly

my 592 and the beginning was running funny too. We did a software update on it or firmware. And then I reset it at a half idle on the wood and it perked it up.

 

[DC1072]

I like the look of the black

 

[Crocky28]

Anyone else notice they’ve beefed up the 592xp muffler? I’ve had a few recently, ordered in for modded mufflers not off saws. All a PITA to cut a 22mm hole in. Kill my usual hole saws and now it’s killed my step drill. They’re def made of tougher stuff now. Must’ve listened after all of them kept getting bashed in at the front.

As you can see that’s as far as I got with my hole saws. The same ones I use for every other muffler. This things a tank. I’ll just be grinding the rest out.

 

[Squareground3691]

Anyone else notice they’ve beefed up the 592xp muffler? I’ve had a few recently, ordered in for modded mufflers not off saws. All a PITA to cut a 22mm hole in. Kill my usual hole saws and now it’s killed my step drill. They’re def made of tougher stuff now. Must’ve listened after all of them kept getting bashed in at the front.

As you can see that’s as far as I got with my hole saws. The same ones I use for every other muffler. This things a tank. I’ll just be grinding the rest out.

Carbide, is ur friend

 

[Moparmyway]

Anyone else notice they’ve beefed up the 592xp muffler? I’ve had a few recently, ordered in for modded mufflers not off saws. All a PITA to cut a 22mm hole in. Kill my usual hole saws and now it’s killed my step drill. They’re def made of tougher stuff now. Must’ve listened after all of them kept getting bashed in at the front.

As you can see that’s as far as I got with my hole saws. The same ones I use for every other muffler. This things a tank. I’ll just be grinding the rest out.

From your picture, looks like stainless steel

 

[farminkarman]

From your picture, looks like stainless steel

The 592’s have been stainless from the beginning…does look like they have switched to a thicker gauge.

 

[jacob j.]

I just rebuilt a 592 for a timber faller buddy - It needed a new muffler. The new muffler I bought from Bruce is a fair bit heavier than the early stock muffler (this is a fall 2021 saw).

 

[Crocky28]

It’s 1.0mm thick, which is beefy for a muffler. It’s def heavier than the older ones. Good to see them making changes to improve things and make it more robust.

 

[huskihl]

It’s 1.0mm thick, which is beefy for a muffler. It’s def heavier than the older ones. Good to see them making changes to improve things and make it more robust.

I’ve seen a dozen or so on the fb groups that had the center cracked or completely blown out. They all said Husky gave them a new one