Husqvarna 61 Build - 630 super / 162 closed port hybrid

[Ronie]

once I get a degree wheel. I spent 3h trying to make my own degree wheel with ZERO success. It was actually laughable.

I got my small one off ebay and mounted a cheap drill chuck to it.

 

[davidwyby]

@Stump Shot might know a thing or two. ;-)

 

[slackinoff]

@Ronie I like the cheap drill chuck idea. Do you have a link to the one you use? and also the wheel? Would be nice to order something I know has worked for others.

Thanks @davidwyby - Would be interesting to see what he says. He might want to know what the numbers are right now before suggesting though? @Stump Shot - I was thinking about doing two degrees on the ex, two on the intake, and just opening/cleaning up the lower transfers. I haven't timed it yet though so not sure yet.

 

[Ronie]

This is like the one I have, https://www.ebay.com/itm/171375177273?epid=1463381903&hash=item27e6c1ae39:g:aT4AAOSw7I5Tsztw, you may be able to find it cheaper, I think I paid $10 for mine.
If you do a search on Amazon you'll find a bunch of chucks. Here's how mine is put together.

 

[Redfin]

@Ronie I like the cheap drill chuck idea. Do you have a link to the one you use? and also the wheel? Would be nice to order something I know has worked for others.

Thanks @davidwyby - Would be interesting to see what he says. He might want to know what the numbers are right now before suggesting though? @Stump Shot - I was thinking about doing two degrees on the ex, two on the intake, and just opening/cleaning up the lower transfers. I haven't timed it yet though so not sure yet.

Yeah, your best option is to pull numbers first then develop plan. Some jugs, even being same model can vary quite a bit timing wise through that run.

 

[Stump Shot]

@Stump Shot might know a thing or two. ;-)

Possibly

 

[Stump Shot]

@Ronie I like the cheap drill chuck idea. Do you have a link to the one you use? and also the wheel? Would be nice to order something I know has worked for others.

Thanks @davidwyby - Would be interesting to see what he says. He might want to know what the numbers are right now before suggesting though? @Stump Shot - I was thinking about doing two degrees on the ex, two on the intake, and just opening/cleaning up the lower transfers. I haven't timed it yet though so not sure yet.

Definitely time it first. So far I don't like your plan, sorry. Is this an AM or OEM cylinder you are dealing with? Again, apologies if it's been said already.
Time it, get back with me and let's see what we can come up with for you.

 

[slackinoff]

Definitely time it first. So far I don't like your plan, sorry. Is this an AM or OEM cylinder you are dealing with? Again, apologies if it's been said already.
Time it, get back with me and let's see what we can come up with for you.

It's an OEM cylinder. Sure thing, I will get back with you once timed. Thank you Stump Shot.

 

[slackinoff]

Carb question - I just noticed the idle changes a bit when turning the saw side to side. Long story short, the original carb doesn't do it. Bigger tillotson 224 does....It's not enough to kill the idle, but it threatens to, and will if left on it's side for 15 seconds.

Is this a "running a bigger carb" issue or some sort of other issue with that carb? I rebuilt it recently and I just double checked the needle lever height. All looks good. Maybe I should try an OEM rebuild kit?

Anyway, this doesn't bother me if it's a bigger carb problem, but it does bother me if it's a carb mechanical issue.

 

[Stump Shot]

Carb question - I just noticed the idle changes a bit when turning the saw side to side. Long story short, the original carb doesn't do it. Bigger tillotson 224 does....It's not enough to kill the idle, but it threatens to, and will if left on it's side for 15 seconds.

Is this a "running a bigger carb" issue or some sort of other issue with that carb? I rebuilt it recently and I just double checked the needle lever height. All looks good. Maybe I should try an OEM rebuild kit?

Anyway, this doesn't bother me if it's a bigger carb problem, but it does bother me if it's a carb mechanical issue.

That's generally an indication of a slight leak in the seals. It's sucking air as it runs and then when turned on its side, gets a slug of oil that temporarily seals it up.

 

[slackinoff]

@Stump Shot - I agree, but why is it fine with the original carb? Or are you talking about a leak in the carb?

 

[davidwyby]

My experience with saws that old indicates it’s best to just change the crank seals.
Unless you wanna swap carbs again…

 

[Stump Shot]

@Stump Shot - I agree, but why is it fine with the original carb? Or are you talking about a leak in the carb?

Well that's different, check the throttle shafts for wear, as it shouldn't matter how that carburetor is placed, it should run the same.

 

[slackinoff]

@davidwyby - Yes I agree and I did change them when I rebuilt this one. It preasure tested good. I have swapped these carbs back and forth and it's definitely this rebuilt larger tillotson 224 carb causing it.

@Stump Shot - Is there a way to check for throttle shaft wear?

 

[Stump Shot]

@davidwyby - Yes I agree and I did change them when I rebuild this one. It preasure tested good. I have swapped these carbs back and forth and it's definitely this rebuilt larger tillotson 224 carb causing it.

@Stump Shot - Is there a way to check for throttle shaft wear?

Physically, open the throttle and wiggle jiggle it and look as it opens sometimes the plate will shift sideways as it opens from wear and shift back as it closes and aligns with the bore.

 

[slackinoff]

@Stump Shot - I made a quick video. You might have to turn quality to the max. I didn't realize it was out of focus a bit. Maybe you can see ok though? Thank you for the help! I'm guessing this is the problem. The good carb does have some side to side just like this one, bit it's not as severe.

 

[slackinoff]

Also - here is a pic incase the video isn't working for you.

 

[davidwyby]

Pretty sure that’s no good.

 

[Stump Shot]

Also - here is a pic incase the video isn't working for you.

View attachment 325580

It's a duster, either a replacement carburetor or a throttle plate will need to be obtained to get that carburetor back in shape. This of course is assuming the shaft is tight in the bore. Parts "should" be available from Husqvarna, with the new normal, it's hard for me to say.

If the plate is changed take the time to get it in the proper position to the bore of the carburetor. Basically, there is only one right spot for it to be and everywhere else is where it shouldn't. This may take several times to get a correct result.

So what happens is very similar to a leaking seal, fuel/oil mix puddles up when you turn that side down and temporarily seals the leak until you either turn it again or blip the throttle.

It's not an end all problem either as long as you're able to tune to it under normal conditions for the immediate, I recommend fixing or replacing it over the long turn as it's just going to worsen from here.

 

[slackinoff]

@Stump Shot - Thank you again. That explanation makes sense to me and I agree it's not the biggest problem in the world, but it bugs me when there is a mechanical issue.

I will try and source a plate first, if not I will source another 224a carb. The upgrade over the smaller carb is worth it to me, especially after timing cuts. Thanks for the tip on getting the new plate set right.