Porting an old Husqvarna 357

[MAF143]

Bearing separater and a press. Easy peasy. You can even touch the race with some heat but you shouldn't need it.

I have a set of bearing seperators, but I'm afraid it would mess up the plastic on the crank stuffer. I have a plan... but I've had those before...

Kind of a bearing seperator, homemade to work with my bearing pusher / kinda press...

 

[Funky sawman]

I've seen worn compression rings cause this, even with red armor mix. This is because of combustion byproduct blowing down into the bottom end. A simple rering and cleanup, and those said saw are running great and clean 2 years later on same mix.

 

[cuinrearview]

I have a set of bearing seperators, but I'm afraid it would mess up the plastic on the crank stuffer. I have a plan... but I've had those before...

Kind of a bearing seperator, homemade to work with my bearing pusher / kinda press...

I didn't see the condition of your bearing but if everything is there you shouldn't have to squeeze it hard enough underneath to damage the stuffer. Just get a good part of the outer race. As long as corrosion isn't a factor it should slide right off.

 

[MAF143]

“Tired of having to buy two types of oil for your saws? Try our all-new dual purpose used motor oil! Our exclusive blend can be used as both bar oil and mix oil!”

Could be. Last time I saw gunk like that was inside a Ford 8N that I rebuilt.

I've seen worn compression rings cause this, even with red armor mix. This is because of combustion byproduct blowing down into the bottom end. A simple rering and cleanup, and those said saw are running great and clean 2 years later on same mix.

That makes sense, the ring that came out of it had .040" end gap. A new Caber is in the mail. The piston looked OK with almost no wear at the skirt and it fits tight in the cylinder with no slap.

I didn't see the condition of your bearing but if everything is there you shouldn't have to squeeze it hard enough underneath to damage the stuffer. Just get a good part of the outer race. As long as corrosion isn't a factor it should slide right off.

Yes, you are right, but I don't really have a good press set up. The only "press" I have is a homemade piece of crap and the jack is busted. It only ever got used for breaking beads on four wheeler tires with the "bead-lock" rims. I made a gizmo that worked in less time than it would have taken to get to town to buy a puller, cheaper too... I'm a tightwad... excuse me, frugal, very frugal...

 

[cuinrearview]

I'm a tightwad... excuse me, frugal, very frugal...

Same here. Snuck it in to work until I got lucky on a No. 1 Atlas at an estate sale.

 

[Woodslasher]

Could be. Last time I saw gunk like that was inside a Ford 8N that I rebuilt.



That makes sense, the ring that came out of it had .040" end gap. A new Caber is in the mail. The piston looked OK with almost no wear at the skirt and it fits tight in the cylinder with no slap.



Yes, you are right, but I don't really have a good press set up. The only "press" I have is a homemade piece of crap and the jack is busted. It only ever got used for breaking beads on four wheeler tires with the "bead-lock" rims. I made a gizmo that worked in less time than it would have taken to get to town to buy a puller, cheaper too... I'm a tightwad... excuse me, frugal, very frugal...

A vise can be a poor man's press, I used a copper cylinder and a vise to put new bearings in my brother's 395 just the other night.

 

[MAF143]

Homemade bearing puller gizmo... I just drill more holes when I need to use it for something else. I used the same holes for this as fit into the generator ring mounting bosses under the flywheel. I used this tool for pushing the crank out of the flywheel side since the stuffers wouldn't allow the normal crank pusher to be used.







My tools aren't always pretty, but they get the job done. If I did saws a lot, I would buy some more tools, but half the fun of this is getting it done with my backwoods goofy azz homemade stuff.

 

[cuinrearview]

If I did saws a lot, I would buy some more tools

 

[MAF143]

A vise can be a poor man's press, I used a copper cylinder and a vise to put new bearings in my brother's 395 just the other night.

I use a lot of bolts, 3/8 plate , and what ever is laying around. I keep wanting to buy a good vise, but everytime I see a good old one for sale, they either want a truckload of gold for it or I get there too late...

I do have a little 3" swivel vise out in one of the sheds, but it's kinda cold out there right now. I prefer working down by the woodstove this time of year.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Effective improvisation always earns manly man points.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I’m glad to see this thing rescued. 20 years old, rode hard and out up wet, but I venture to say it will rock your woodlot when it runs again. And it looks the part. Not so for the 5 series, but that’s just me...

 

[Funky sawman]

I’m glad to see this thing rescued. 20 years old, rode hard and out up wet, but I venture to say it will rock your woodlot when it runs again. And it looks the part. Not so for the 5 series, but that’s just me...

I'll take some burnt cookies!!!
Are you saying yer not fond of 5 series saws? Well neither am I, but I'm trying to warm up to them.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I'll take some burnt cookies!!!
Are you saying yer not fond of 5 series saws? Well neither am I, but I'm trying to warm up to them.

I had a 562 for a while, it cut like crazy right out of the box...hurt my eyes to look at it. I'm really old school. It took me a long time to get used to seeing hand guards much less chain brakes. I'm trying to adapt lol

 

[Wolverine]

I had a 562 for a while, it cut like crazy right out of the box...hurt my eyes to look at it. I'm really old school. It took me a long time to get used to seeing hand guards much less chain brakes. I'm trying to adapt lol

Taint bad at all imo, and I'm a 3 series lover at heart.

 

[Funky sawman]

I had a 562 for a while, it cut like crazy right out of the box...hurt my eyes to look at it. I'm really old school. It took me a long time to get used to seeing hand guards much less chain brakes. I'm trying to adapt lol

What about those cookies, I've tried to rent pigs, but you know what randy says to that!

 

[MAF143]

OK, so is my head on straight for this?
With the stuffers down in the crankcase, there isn't much volume down there to hold much charge to flow up into the transfers. Most of the charge volume has to come from under the piston as it's coming back down and has to make a 180 at the lower xfer port opening. So my plan is instead of worrying about smoothing flow coming from the crankshaft area below, which would mean smoothing the case above the bearing, I'm thinking to open up the cylinder wall up to the mark trying to keep a rounded shape from below the piston into the transfer to smooth flow from that direction as much as possible. Still not planning on touching the upper x-fers. The exhaust will only get widened and with it being lowered from the base gasket delete it should hold plenty of torque. The intake will get widened and dropped a few degrees. I'll put it back together and break it in then run it for a while to see if I like it that way. It can always get played with some more later...



The piston is way up in there and the relief of the side skirt even exposes the bottom of the upper x-fer ports at TDC. I'm thinking of taking a little off the side skirts of the piston to aid in the flow around the bottom of it while it is near BDC. There isn't much to take off there, but I'm thinking more of the flow smoothness by rounding it a little.


I'm gonna remove that cylinder skirt corner and match / open the case a little as well where it enters the lower x-fer.


The exhaust will get widened, thinking about a little off the piston top to match the middle half of the exhaust port roof. Outer end will get hogged out and matched to the muffler opening with a MM. The black at the lower side of the ex port is just a shadow, no cutting going on there.

 

[huskihl]

OK, so is my head on straight for this?
With the stuffers down in the crankcase, there isn't much volume down there to hold much charge to flow up into the transfers. Most of the charge volume has to come from under the piston as it's coming back down and has to make a 180 at the lower xfer port opening. So my plan is instead of worrying about smoothing flow coming from the crankshaft area below, which would mean smoothing the case above the bearing, I'm thinking to open up the cylinder wall up to the mark trying to keep a rounded shape from below the piston into the transfer to smooth flow from that direction as much as possible. Still not planning on touching the upper x-fers. The exhaust will only get widened and with it being lowered from the base gasket delete it should hold plenty of torque. The intake will get widened and dropped a few degrees. I'll put it back together and break it in then run it for a while to see if I like it that way. It can always get played with some more later...

View attachment 318018

The piston is way up in there and the relief of the side skirt even exposes the bottom of the upper x-fer ports at TDC. I'm thinking of taking a little off the side skirts of the piston to aid in the flow around the bottom of it while it is near BDC. There isn't much to take off there, but I'm thinking more of the flow smoothness by rounding it a little.
View attachment 318019

I'm gonna remove that cylinder skirt corner and match / open the case a little as well where it enters the lower x-fer.
View attachment 318021

The exhaust will get widened, thinking about a little off the piston top to match the middle half of the exhaust port roof. Outer end will get hogged out and matched to the muffler opening with a MM. The black at the lower side of the ex port is just a shadow, no cutting going on there.
View attachment 318022

No need to remove that much. That will act more like a 359 than a 357.

 

[Wolverine]

No need to remove that much. That will act more like a 359 than a 357.

And that would turn me off to it.

My dd357 is very high strung. Lean on it, or take too much off the rakers and it ain’t happy. Keep the rakers right and the revs [very] high and it eats. My favorite saw period.

 

[MAF143]

I did some work on the saw this evening. I worked the exhaust port with the heatshield in place and moved it to the muffler. I'll finishe the muffler when the deflector I ordered gets here. I'm not totally happy with the exhaust chamfers yet so I'll spend some more time on them tomorrow evening.



I'll match the muffler and gasket to the HS.


Little trim on the piston to match the port.

 

[MAF143]

Did some work in the lower xfers and matched them to the case. They aren't quit as good as I would like yet so I'll touch them up with the cylinder on the case halves.







Intake floor got lowered, I'll check it to see where it is once my bearings and gaskets get here.