Porting an old Husqvarna 357

[MAF143]

I don't really know for sure, but I would think the crank was balanced for use with the stuffers and removing them would cause some serious vibration. The stuffers are plastic and fairly lightweight, but it doesn't take much at 14,000 RPM to throw it out of balance...

edit:
I just ran down to the shop and rolled the stuffer across the tablesaw and it wobbles like a weeble, so I can't imagine the balance of the crank would be OK without putting them back in... From what I understand they are one of the reasons this saw has good performance.

 

[cuinrearview]

I don't really know for sure, but I would think the crank was balanced for use with the stuffers and removing them would cause some serious vibration. The stuffers are plastic and fairly lightweight, but it doesn't take much at 14,000 RPM to throw it out of balance...

edit:
I just ran down to the shop and rolled the stuffer across the tablesaw and it wobbles like a weeble, so I can't imagine the balance of the crank would be OK without putting them back in... From what I understand they are one of the reasons this saw has good performance.

It will be fine without them. 357 and 9 used the same crank. I've also added stuffers to a 346 with no added vibes.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

@Stump Shot is a fan of 359 (no stuffer) bottom, 357 top.
And he's no dummy.

 

[Stump Shot]

@Stump Shot is a fan of 359 (no stuffer) bottom, 357 top.
And he's no dummy.

It's a nice blend of good attributes from both saws and makes for an excellent work saw in general.
If a higher RPM saw is desired for such as a GTG saw, a limbing/topping saw for just a couple of examples, then the stuffers should be retained as the 357xp is a darn nice saw too, no matter what I like, so folks need to choose for themselves what is best for them.
As for the latter, well that's debatable I'm sure. lol

 

[drf256]

Think hybrid 044/6 vs 046. More case volume usually adds broader torque. Would have to time jugs differently too.

Case volume to swept volume ratio matters too.

 

[old guy]

Having just had a couple of 359's come in to be tuned with the plastics removed I can say it's very very difficult to stab the screwdriver into the metal stub that's left. Had to actually shut the saws off and remove the top covers to get the job done. And none of the kit of twelve adjustment tools would fit either. I just trim the tabs when I do this myself and tuning is still easy and on some saws it helps hold the tune from wandering off. Those caps can be ordered fairly cheaply and is most likely the way to go here. When trimming the tabs I use a small side cutter and cut it off so there is just a little to be shaved off easily.

That's how I do em, Steve

 

[huskihl]

Given the option, I would take stuffers or a tighter crank case every time. If a guy didn’t want it higher strung, I would just leave the exhaust and transfers down a little bit like Tim’s and Phil’s 357’s

 

[Stump Shot]

Given the option, I would take stuffers or a tighter crank case every time. If a guy didn’t want it higher strung, I would just leave the exhaust and transfers down a little bit like Tim’s and Phil’s 357’s

I don't destuff 357's either, rather from the prospective of rebuilding a 359, which when you purchase a replacement cylinder from Husqvarna, you get a 357xp cylinder in its stead. So unless you have a 357 with a broken crank and happen to have a 359 crank lying around...
...otherwise I wouldn't bother. like I said the 357xp is a great saw in its own right.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Given the option, I would take stuffers or a tighter crank case every time. If a guy didn’t want it higher strung, I would just leave the exhaust and transfers down a little bit like Tim’s and Phil’s 357’s

Something about a tight crankcase getting more RPM’s...

 

[drf256]

If you can move X volume through a saw, and HP is work over time, how do you increase HP while having a fixed “X” constant?

A saw with a tighter case is taking smaller “gulps” of X for each revolution.

So the saw needs to take more gulps to move X, which equals more rpm.

There is more to it than that, there are crankcase to CC ratios that come into play for a motor having usable range power.

It’s all about the variables.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

It’s all about the variables.

And the constants...Heaven forbid the tree being cut had square roots

 

[huskihl]

And the constants...Heaven forbid the tree being cut had square roots

 

[P.M.P.]

You fuggers think way to hard

 

[MAF143]

Seems like a lot of carbon in the crankcase unless this is just some sort of oil residue build up. I've never seen this much black stuff doun in bearings before (keep in mind I'm a rookie inside a chainsaw engine). Clutchside bearing was a little catchy so I'm guessing it was time for this motor to come apart and be refreshed anyway.

Is there a particular cause for this? There wasn't much carbon up in the combustion chamber when I pulled the cylinder but the transfers are all black, even at the lower end. I had just assumed that there had been some burnt gas pushed into the transfers due to the short blowdown time but I wouldn't have thought It would get clear down to the crank bearings. I guess I'm having a little trouble wrapping my peabrain around the short blowdown giving good performance.

I had already wiped out the surface of the crankcase on the clutch side before I took the pix. you can see that there are deposits that came through the bearing down in the bearing pocket. (not a crack in this pic, just a hair or something)


flywheel side bearing has deposits on it.




Even the bearing cages are "blackened", what causes this? Others I've taken apart are oily, maybe discolored if they got hot, but not all gooped up with deposits. Could it be a crappy oil in the mix?

 

[cuinrearview]

Yuck. The good news is these use common 6202 C3s on both sides.

 

[MAF143]

Yuck. The good news is these use common 6202 C3s on both sides.

The bad news is the bearing stayed on the crank when I pulled it out of the flywheel side... Looks like a PITA since the crank stuffer is in the way...

 

[cuinrearview]

The bad news is the bearing stayed on the crank when I pulled it out of the flywheel side... Looks like a PITA since the crank stuffer is in the way...

Bearing separater and a press. Easy peasy. You can even touch the race with some heat but you shouldn't need it.

 

[huskihl]

Seems like a lot of carbon in the crankcase unless this is just some sort of oil residue build up. I've never seen this much black stuff doun in bearings before (keep in mind I'm a rookie inside a chainsaw engine). Clutchside bearing was a little catchy so I'm guessing it was time for this motor to come apart and be refreshed anyway.

Is there a particular cause for this? There wasn't much carbon up in the combustion chamber when I pulled the cylinder but the transfers are all black, even at the lower end. I had just assumed that there had been some burnt gas pushed into the transfers due to the short blowdown time but I wouldn't have thought It would get clear down to the crank bearings. I guess I'm having a little trouble wrapping my peabrain around the short blowdown giving good performance.

I had already wiped out the surface of the crankcase on the clutch side before I took the pix. you can see that there are deposits that came through the bearing down in the bearing pocket. (not a crack in this pic, just a hair or something)
View attachment 317815

flywheel side bearing has deposits on it.
View attachment 317817

View attachment 317818

Even the bearing cages are "blackened", what causes this? Others I've taken apart are oily, maybe discolored if they got hot, but not all gooped up with deposits. Could it be a crappy oil in the mix?
View attachment 317819

Cat mufflers and a small muffler outlet

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Seems like a lot of carbon in the crankcase unless this is just some sort of oil residue build up. I've never seen this much black stuff doun in bearings before (keep in mind I'm a rookie inside a chainsaw engine). Clutchside bearing was a little catchy so I'm guessing it was time for this motor to come apart and be refreshed anyway.

Is there a particular cause for this? There wasn't much carbon up in the combustion chamber when I pulled the cylinder but the transfers are all black, even at the lower end. I had just assumed that there had been some burnt gas pushed into the transfers due to the short blowdown time but I wouldn't have thought It would get clear down to the crank bearings. I guess I'm having a little trouble wrapping my peabrain around the short blowdown giving good performance.

I had already wiped out the surface of the crankcase on the clutch side before I took the pix. you can see that there are deposits that came through the bearing down in the bearing pocket. (not a crack in this pic, just a hair or something)
View attachment 317815

flywheel side bearing has deposits on it.
View attachment 317817

View attachment 317818

Even the bearing cages are "blackened", what causes this? Others I've taken apart are oily, maybe discolored if they got hot, but not all gooped up with deposits. Could it be a crappy oil in the mix?
View attachment 317819

That is some kinda nasty! I would love to know what oil was used in that saw. Whatever it was should be avoided.

 

[Woodslasher]

That is some kinda nasty! I would love to know what oil was used in that saw. Whatever it was should be avoided.

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