Let's Build a 266

[jacktheripper]

Step 3: Install clutch side case half, mate cases

After making sure all sealing surfaces on the cases were good and clean, I laid down some dirko on the sealing surfaces of the case half, then laid the case gasket on top of that, and then laid down some more dirko onto the gasket.

The next part is a bit tricky to get right. Use the heat gun to heat up the clutch side bearing pocket like you did the flywheel side, and then quickly slip it onto the crank/bearing. There are several things to watch out for here: Make sure the pins line up into their holes, make sure the gasket doesn't get moved or crinkled. You probably won't get to full depth before the bearing sticks into the seat. That is fine.

To pull it together the remainder of the way, install four case screws. Then use the heat gun again to heat the case up, while slowly working the case screws in to pull the cases together and the bearing farther into its pocket. This makes you wish you had one more hand, but it can be done. Make sure not to tighten the screws if you feel excessive resistance, and make sure the case halves are coming together evenly, and not canted in one direction or the other.

After getting the cases tightly sealed to each other, test the crank for smooth rotation. If you feel a bit of resistance, you may need to give each side a couple of light taps with a hammer. As stated before, thread a nut on (or the clutch for the reverse-thread clutch side) so that you don't mess up the threads. The crank should rotate freely with no felt resistance. Mine spun nice and smooth.

Lastly, install the front case screws (the ones that hold the dog on), and the rear case screw at the back of the carb box.

 

[jacktheripper]

Step 4: Install oil pump/seal carrier assy

On a 266, and other similar saws of the same era, Husqvarna integrated the oil pump and crank seal pocket together, and sealed the oil pump to the case with an o-ring. This o-ring is not a standard hardware store o-ring, and it should be purchased from Husqvarna as a genuine part. If you plan to re-use your o-ring, make sure that it is intact and not flattened, brittle, pinched, or stretched. Lubricate the o-ring with 2t oil when you put it on.

The crank seal must be installed at the correct depth into its pocket in the oil pump assembly. The outside face of the seal should be near flush with the outside edge of the pocket. I used a socket to tap it in. Lubricate the crank seal with 2t oil also.

Install the oiler pickup line into the crankcase. I used a Stihl-type oil filter because I did not have the old brass Husky filter. Make sure the surface where it seals against the case is cleaned up.

The oiler output hole is sealed against the case with a very small grommet. Make sure that grommet is in place on the roll pin on the pump, and that the sealing surfaces for the grommet are clean as well. See it in the top left of my picture of the back of the oil pump.

To install the oiler assy onto the case, make sure that you are not forcing the crank seal onto the crankshaft. It cannot be forced over the step on the crankshaft, so you must walk it over onto the crank. I have used a couple of different methods to do this: one is to use a piece of plastic from a zip-loc bag. Wrap it around the crank and use it as a forcing cone to walk the seal surface over the step, then slip the plastic out. The other is to *very carefully* use a tiny screwdriver to lift the lip of the seal over the edge of the crank, working around the circumference of the seal to get it completely on. Make sure not to use a sharp screwdriver if you do this, as you don't want to damage the rubber on the seal.

If at any point in the process of installing the oiler assembly, you feel excessive resistance, then stop. It should slide smoothly onto the case, and when it seats, it should push nicely into place.

Install the three screws that hold the oiler on, using blue loc-tite. Don't over tighten them. Lastly, use some grease to lubricate the oiler gear and shaft.

 

[jacktheripper]

Step 5: Install flywheel side crank seal and carrier

On the older saws in this series (162, 266, 61, etc), Husqvarna used a plastic seal carrier on the flywheel side to hold the crank seal. It seals to the case with an o-ring as well (same part as the oiler o-ring).

This side is a bit easier to do. Tap the crank seal into the seal carrier until it bottoms out on the lip. This will be the correct depth. Lubricate the seal, lubricate the o-ring, and then slip it onto the crank and seat it into the case. Use blue loc-tite on the three screws, and tighten them.

Note that sometimes this plastic seal carrier can crack or warp. Make sure your carrier is in good shape.

 

[jacktheripper]

I called it a night after that.