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Husqvarna 61 Build - 630 super / 162 closed port hybrid

slackinoff

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Do you have a small triangle file to sort the first thread?

I thought the same thing, but I couldn't turn one up. I still can't believe my cheap harbor freight set had the right tap and die. It all worked out great, both on the nut and the crankshaft.

The saw fought me every way it could have getting the cases together. I hope my neighbors didn't hear me. I already have the seals replaced in the carriers, I will throw the cylinder on to pressure test it and see before I go further.....I have a feeling about the case gasket with how much monkeying around I did.

I am not going to use that method again, where the bearings are installed on the crank and then all together into the case. I'm going to stick with installing the bearings into the case then crank. You don't have as much control with bearing depth when you put bearings onto crankshaft first.


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president

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Ring end gap is .006 measured in several spots, meteor piston came with Caber ring, excited to try them.

I finished up the carb rebuild. No drama there.

Muffler rust cleaned up nicely after soaking in the CLR and evaporust for a couple days. It flash rusted a bit in the few min it was bare metal.

Painting went well, the muffler had more pitting than I thought. The support bracket came out terrible, the finish wrinkled for some reason. I'm going to strip it and try again.

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If you can find a tillotson 205 ,or a 254 carb that came on the 480cd,
and the latter 61s they are a bigger venturi ! and will bolt right up
 

timg

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@Ronie - yes I tried, the holes are backwards and the shape is different on the cylinder side. I found some factory ones on ebay searching for 630, 266, 66, 162. Part number is 501511902.
Thanks for this reminder. An early KS 61 I have is the same way on mtg. and impulse port. Just the diagonal opposites as the 630.
 

slackinoff

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If you can find a tillotson 205 ,or a 254 carb that came on the 480cd,
and the latter 61s they are a bigger venturi ! and will bolt right up

Thanks! I was wondering what carb would be an upgrade without too much trouble. I think the 272 carb (hs260a) and 268 carb (hs234b) has an issue with the idle screw being on the carb instead of the case body like the early 61's. I think this can be worked around, but I need to do some more research on what all the different carb configurations can be fitted up.

I got the newer ignition switch working. I found some short 8-32 stainless pan head screws that looked about right. I still had to shorten the screw it by a good bit. Not a big deal. Also, magnesium drills and taps very easily. If the saw pressure tests good tonight, I might be able to have a running saw this weekend.

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slackinoff

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This saw continues to fight me but I'm fighting back. I decided to do the wrong thing the right way.

The closed port 630 super jug I got is in really great shape but, one of the exhaust stud holes is stripped out bad. ( Ronie - no big deal my friend, you gave me a great deal and I am still 100% happy with purchase)
I went back and forth and decided to just JB weld the stud in, OH THE HORROR. I don't think it's that big of a deal, if need be I can just cut it off, drill and tap it. Plus the exhaust flange on close inspection was for some reason eroded or scraped down on that side, not sure how that happens but I used a razor and the JB to build it back up. I'm happy with the repair, again the wrong thing, the right way.

I used my compression tester hose to pressure test. All I did was take out the Schrader valve in the hose.

I found one leak and thankfully it's not the case gasket. It's the oring on the backside of the oil pump housing. That's the only part I am still waiting on, I already changed the oring on the flywheel side.

Here it is with the jb setting up. Muffler is on ( but not on the port) so the studd sets up true.

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Northerner

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Looks like iam not the only one using comp tester hose for vac test. I just hook my mighty vac onto the hose.
I’ve also been buying sealed bearings for cranks, popping out the seals saves alot of money over buying oem bearings, they are crazy expensive here in Canada.
 

slackinoff

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Well another delay. I realized my intake bolts are way too long. I know most folks shim them when doing 61 to 272, so I figured I would do the same. I didn't realize they are shimming AND changing the bolts out.

I considered cutting them down and then cutting more threads up the bolt shaft...I doubt I can make that work, even though this build has beefed up my die and tap skills.

Piston ports have been touched up. Flywheel and coil is on. Exhaust is squared away and the intake and exhaust ports on the jug are cleaned up. I'd like to port this for real after I get some run time.

Before

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After

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slackinoff

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Well, 272 bolts are shorter yes but also 4mm so that won't work. I need some shorter 5mm bolts. Way shorter than you can just shim. These are 75mm and I need 50-55mm.

Is this shaft too thick for me to cut 5mm threads into? These are the factory bolts, if I cut off what I need to there won't be any threads.....it just looks too thick to cut 5mm threads back on for some reason.

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slackinoff

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Good news, I decided to try cutting threads on the original bolts and then cutting them down to size. It worked perfectly. Very happy with the result. Got the jug glued on before I left for work....I might be starting this thing tonight!

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Here is how much I ended up trimming off. By my measurements I needed 20 to 25 mm trimmed off.

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Torqued down and drying.

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slackinoff

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@jakethesnake - Man it's close....after work today I should have a go at it pretty quick. All that's left is the easy stuff - mount the tank, starter, handlebar, torque down the flywheel & clutch.

I never checked spark so that could bite me but, it looks like it was originally put away from someone not running the damn airfilter so spark should be there....anyways I am excited!
 

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I thought the same thing, but I couldn't turn one up. I still can't believe my cheap harbor freight set had the right tap and die. It all worked out great, both on the nut and the crankshaft.

The saw fought me every way it could have getting the cases together. I hope my neighbors didn't hear me. I already have the seals replaced in the carriers, I will throw the cylinder on to pressure test it and see before I go further.....I have a feeling about the case gasket with how much monkeying around I did.

I am not going to use that method again, where the bearings are installed on the crank and then all together into the case. I'm going to stick with installing the bearings into the case then crank. You don't have as much control with bearing depth when you put bearings onto crankshaft first.


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I recently did a 61 build to 72 specs. The oil pumps on the 61s I noticed do not have as much travel built into the pump plunger to provide enough oil to bar. The 272 plungers are made with a more aggressive slope on the smooth end. I have sanded the plungers on All Husqvarna saws to provide more travel and thus more oil to bar. In my opinion the oil pump is the most overlooked part in rebuilds. The saw is of little use if the chain is grinding against the bar. In effect more oil to bar equates in more final hp at the final end of the crank… the bar nose!
 

slackinoff

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Ok saw is running!!! I didn't have any problems getting it started.

My first thoughts are wow, this thing has some compression. I will put my gauge on it to check later, but it thumps. Second, the throttle response is unbelievably good. Compared to my ms440 clone build, it puts that saw to shame on throttle response. I am super impressed and just by running it in, I get why folks really like building these. I need to get a bar for this thing ASAP.

Here is a short video of the second heat cycle.

 

Ronie

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Ok saw is running!!! I didn't have any problems getting it started.

My first thoughts are wow, this thing has some compression. I will put my gauge on it to check later, but it thumps. Second, the throttle response is unbelievably good. Compared to my ms440 clone build, it puts that saw to shame on throttle response. I am super impressed and just by running it in, I get why folks really like building these. I need to get a bar for this thing ASAP.

Here is a short video of the second heat cycle.

Nice job!
 

slackinoff

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Thanks to @Ronie for the 162/630 super cylinder, clean white top, and the old style airfilter. He helped make this saw look good and run good.
 
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