Husqvarna 61 Build - 630 super / 162 closed port hybrid

[Ronie]

I have some pictures to update the thread with after work. I have been soaking the muffler parts in CLR to remove the rust, it's going great. Crud Kutter would have worked a lot faster but I had this on hand. The nicer white top I have been using a headlight restoration kit on to removed the yellowed and oxidized plastic. Slow going but it's working.

But I have a question. I think I am going to split the cases. The bottom end is very smooth, but I am hearing a slight wherrring noise when spinning it as fast as I can. I have a MX bike case splitter that might work, not sure if anyone has used one of those before on a saw.

Question - What crank bearings should I put in? I think it's the 6202 bearing, but there are many variations, can anyone suggest the bearing to use? SKF? Nachi?

I found this Nachi on ebay that @Ronie suggested a while back, can you confirm this bearing will work Ronie? Link below

6202 ZZ C3 Nachi Bearing Worldwide 15X35X11mm 6202ZZ DOUBLE SHIELDED

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6202-ZZ-C3...=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&ufes_redirect=true

They should work, you just have to remove the metal shield with an awl or a small screwdriver.

 

[slackinoff]

There is a plastic whitening technique called "retro bright" that folks use to de-yellow collectible computers. I tried it on my original white top to make sure it wouldn't tear up the plastic on my nice one.

Basically you use high test peroxide in the form of hair developer from the beauty shop and UV rays from the sun to activate.

Here is the test result, il do the good top tomorrow.

Before



After, see test spot.

 

[davidwyby]

Sweet!

 

[slackinoff]

I went ahead a ordered the Holzfforma case splitter for about $50 shipped. I know the bearing will stay in the case when using that one vs the MX case splitter I have. The bearing staying in the case is a lot easier to deal with vs stuck on the crank.

Now that I know the "retro bright" whitening technique works and doesn't damage the type of plastic husky used for these, I have the nicer white top prepared. It's coated in the "40 volume" developer cream, plastic wrapped and I placed it outside this morning in the sun. The cling wrap is to keep it from drying out. If that stuff dries out on the plastic, it can possibly mess up the finish.

I don't want this thing perfect, I just wanted it a bit less yellow and chalky oxidized. Later this evening I will show the results and the muffler rust removal results as well.

 

[davidwyby]

@afleetcommand check it out

 

[slackinoff]

Results from the "retro bright" on the nicer top I got from @Ronie. I see no negatives such as unwanted effects to the plastic, like making it brittle or flimsy.

If you do this to colored plastic, it will lighten it. I just wanted to be clear that this should not be done to colored plastic.

 

[Ronie]

Results from the "retro bright" on the nicer top I got from @Ronie. I see no negatives such as unwanted effects to the plastic, like making it brittle or flimsy.

If you do this to colored plastic, it will lighten it. I just wanted to be clear that this should not be done to colored plastic.

View attachment 322124
View attachment 322123
View attachment 322122

That's looks great!

 

[slackinoff]

Still working on the muffler, I had it all stripped to bare metal, looking good, but decided to paint the next day. I coated everything in wd40 last night and woke up this morning to flash rusting all over, so back into the rust strip.

I have most of my parts in. I got the starter rope replaced and started on rebuilding the carb (Walbro WS17a).

Also the rear handle cleaned up looking brand new. I guess all the oil and dust preserved it.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I got a 61 at our "local" flea market for a very low price. It needed several small items but the engine was intact. For about $100 I had it up and cutting wood. Mine is bone stock and is adequate for any cutting I'll do...

 

[smokey7]

That would be the Jred saws.

He is using a jred 630 cylinder isnt he?

 

[slackinoff]

Ring end gap is .006 measured in several spots, meteor piston came with Caber ring, excited to try them.

I finished up the carb rebuild. No drama there.

Muffler rust cleaned up nicely after soaking in the CLR and evaporust for a couple days. It flash rusted a bit in the few min it was bare metal.

Painting went well, the muffler had more pitting than I thought. The support bracket came out terrible, the finish wrinkled for some reason. I'm going to strip it and try again.

 

[slackinoff]

Bearings, case splitter and my NOS Oregon rim sprocket #102469 came in yesterday. I got the case split last night, that tool does a great job splitting. The bearings actually seemed ok now that they are out, but I am glad to be checking and replacing just to be sure.

I need to wait for my bar studs to come in and clean everything really well before getting the cases back together. I am going to go ahead and slip the new bearings onto my crank after work, it's been in the freezer since last night.

 

[slackinoff]

Got a problem. I need to know the thread size on the flywheel nut....?

 

[slackinoff]

Long version of the story - Just now on my lunch break I got the flywheel side case to 200f and dropped the crank into that side. I needed to move the crank over just a bit as it was rubbing the case ( not centered ) so I went to run the flywheel nut on to protect the threads and its buggered just enough to not thread.....ARG!

I want to run a die onto the crankshaft flywheel threads on the crank, but I don't know the correct size and the flywheel nut is too buggered as well to go test and see what thread it is.

 

[Motorka]

503 22 04-01 M8 nut

 

[slackinoff]

503 22 04-01 M8 nut

Thank you!, do you happen to know if it is 1.0 or 1.25 pitch?

 

[slackinoff]

Ok I found the exact IPL for this 1982 model. It shows part number 250126901 which after looking up is an M10x1.0 This part number was then replaced by 503221002 which also shows M10x1.0

I have that die on hand thankfully. Hope it works out, I am going to be anxious until I get this issue fixed.

 

[Ronie]

Ok I found the exact IPL for this 1983 model. It shows part number 250126901 which after looking up is an M10x1.0 This part number was then replaced by 503221002 which also shows M10x1.0

I have that die on hand thankfully. Hope it works out, I am going to be anxious until I get this issue fixed.

If I'm remembering right, there are two flywheel nut sizes for the 61 depending on the year.

 

[Redfin]

Ok I found the exact IPL for this 1983 model. It shows part number 250126901 which after looking up is an M10x1.0 This part number was then replaced by 503221002 which also shows M10x1.0

I have that die on hand thankfully. Hope it works out, I am going to be anxious until I get this issue fixed.

Do you have a small triangle file to sort the first thread?

 

[jakethesnake]

I thought that too thread chaser