Husqvarna 61 Build - 630 super / 162 closed port hybrid

[Ronie]

I'm pretty sure it's just one wire. The switch on mine is also broken, I just pull the choke to shut it down.

 

[Ronie]

I'll check and see if the newer type of switch will fit.

 

[Ronie]

Both of these types of switches will fit but you will have to ground them. The one that you can't see the back of has two blades.

 

[davidwyby]

There is a spring loaded momentary switch you can get.

 

[Ronie]

There is a spring loaded momentary switch you can get.

I like those.

 

[slackinoff]

Thanks @Ronie - trying to decide if it's a good idea to drill and tap a hole for the single post style. It would be cleaner than the two post.

 

[Ronie]

You could try it and if it doesn't hold up, it's very thin, you could use a small nut and bolt.

 

[slackinoff]

Ok good news. There is about a half inch gap between the carb box are and the tank. I should be able carefully drill and tap it just fine.

Th saw is cleaning up nice, going to pull the cylinder tomorrow. The muffler is less rusty than I expected, should be able clean that off. Also the fuel line and filter are in really great shape, all the rubber is actually.

 

[slackinoff]

Merry Christmas!

 

[slackinoff]

The saw was definitely was ran without an air filter. I noticed the intake was a bit dirty and also the filter was missing. What's wild is the original cylinder looks perfect and the bottom end bearings are as smooth as glass.

I've got this other top end to put on but I think I'm going to just wash out the bottom end, flush it really good and run it.

Trying to locate the right intake gaskets, I just now realized this closed port cylinder uses a different intake block shape. Screws are also opposite, which is fine, it's the same as doing a 272 swap. Shim the bolts since they are a touch too long. (Edit - that is not correct, 272 uses a 4mm bolt that is indeed shorter, but won't work here since it's 4mm - go to page 4 to see how I fixed this issue)

 

[Ronie]

Did you take the intake block off the closed port and see if you an use the one from the open port on it?

 

[slackinoff]

@Ronie - yes I tried, the holes are backwards and the shape is different on the cylinder side. I found some factory ones on ebay searching for 630, 266, 66, 162. Part number is 501511902.

 

[Redfin]

I'd like to get this one running and possibly try my hand at porting to warm it up. I cleaned up and chamfered the ports on my 440 clone build, would be fun to go a bit further.

Stick with the open transfers if you dont have a 90*.

 

[Redfin]

Good reliable saws, they won’t break any records it always get the job done. Plus easy to work on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran one iirc in MO that was just dumb. Open transfer jug, did have intake and carb swap.

 

[slackinoff]

Ordered most of my parts last night. I was able to find oem intake block to cylinder gaskets, I have heard to go oem on those specific gaskets. I found some made in USA carb to intake block gaskets that looked decent.

Ordered a pack of the new style igniton switch, a walbro k10-ws rebuild kit, and from Wolf Creek Saw a windowed 630/162 meteor piston and a bearing. Pretty excited to run this piston, should be a good performance bump from the skirted style original closed port piston.

I need a tap for the bolt to ground the new style switch since it isn't grounded through the tension clips. My brother in law gave me a harbor freight gift card for Christmas. I think I will use it to buy a tap set.

Meteor PC1606B




Factory piston from 630 / 162

 

[slackinoff]

Going to try these carb to intake block gaskets

 

[smokey7]

Pretty sure the impulse passage is outside the gasket on those.

 

[slackinoff]

@smokey7 - I don't understand what you mean sorry

 

[davidwyby]

Pretty sure the impulse passage is outside the gasket on those.

That would be the Jred saws.

 

[slackinoff]

I have some pictures to update the thread with after work. I have been soaking the muffler parts in CLR to remove the rust, it's going great. Crud Kutter would have worked a lot faster but I had this on hand. The nicer white top I have been using a headlight restoration kit on to remove the yellowed and oxidized plastic. Slow going but it's working.

But I have a question. I think I am going to split the cases. The bottom end is very smooth, but I am hearing a slight wherrring noise when spinning it as fast as I can. I have a MX bike case splitter that might work, not sure if anyone has used one of those before on a saw.

Question - What crank bearings should I put in? I think it's the 6202 bearing, but there are many variations, can anyone suggest the bearing to use? SKF? Nachi?

I found this Nachi on ebay that @Ronie suggested a while back, can you confirm this bearing will work Ronie? Link below

6202 ZZ C3 Nachi Bearing Worldwide 15X35X11mm 6202ZZ DOUBLE SHIELDED

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6202-ZZ-C3...=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&ufes_redirect=true