066 Rebuild, Port Job etc

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

OFFS....... AM crap on this........... wash your keyboard with soap!
It will be held on a pedestal and worshiped
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That's a nice looking saw. I am jealous. lol

 

[Brewz]

Question
When I put the case back together, is it worth putting a a small smear of Motoseal on the case half seal surfaces to make sure I get a 100% seal?

 

[Moparmyway]

Yes, a very thin smear though

 

[Brewz]

Thats what I thought

It cant hurt to ensure it is sealed

 

[riverrat2]

You ain't the first to find that issue.

The guys in Australia clued me in a couple of years ago.

Wow not only you have friends,,, you also have a clue?????

 

[Brewz]

Spent this arvo getting the saw ready to put back together.

Opened up the little stock hole on the muffler side port to as big as I could get it inside the cover and also squared out the already enlarged front cover
The muffler would now be open double what the stock dual port muffler would be and has lower restriction spark screens.

Pulled the flywheel key and gave it a few degrees of advance.

Now I am just waiting on a clutch side crank bearing and a little rubber ring for the front of the tank handle to turn up at the Stihl dealer and I can put the bottom end together.

I plan to fit the OEM P&C when I get it from jms but I might take the aftermarket jug to my mate with a lathe and let him cut on it first to make sure he does a good job before I take to the precious OEM jug.

I really can't wait to get it running again.
I miss firing it up and giving it a rev

 

[Brewz]

Well the 2nd 066 I bought (the "low mile" one) turned up today in the mail and its not as low mile as I had hoped but it will clean up well!

It still has the OEM P&C and the inside looks great with no damage and lots of oil inside.
The tank handle assembly has been recently replaced and is OEM.
No pitting or damage to the case other than some paint off compared to the original 066 I bought which looks like its been soaked in acid, They must have been using brake fluid for bar oil.

Came with a 25" older Oregon 3/8 25" bar that should clean up ok
The chain......... Oh the chain.
Check out this creative sharpening.
Every tooth is done the same with tooth angles varying from 10* to 30*

I am going to keep it and give it a run in some wood to see how it cuts.
It will then go in the bin

 

[Terry Syd]

Good Lord, what a chain! It looks like he intentionally put extra 'glint' on the cutter. No wonder he sold the saw - it doesn't cut wood like it used to. Maybe he thought the chain had to 'wear' through the wood. (he never touched the rakers either)

If you have a chain grinder you can still get some life out of the chain, but I wouldn't want to have to hand file it in order to get it sharp. I'll pay the postage if you send it to me.

It would be funny, but I have run into WAY too many stuffed up chains like that. One guy I taught to sharpen had been a wood cutter on a wood farm for more than 30 years! I couldn't believe the state of his bars and chains. Another bloke I spent a couple of hours in the shed with going though his chain, actually cut and sold firewood to supplement his income, once he understood how the cutter worked and how to sharpen, he probably tripled his income.

For crying out loud, it is a CUTTING INSTRUMENT it needs to be correctly sharpened just like any other cutting instrument.

 

[Brewz]

My dad has an electric grinder/sharpener but to be honest, for the trouble it will be and the life left in it, I will see how it cuts for a laugh and buy a new chain

In fact, the old bar that came with it looks to have had a hardish life ad also looks like it has a cheap Chinese replacement nose fitted, So I might just call them junk after I try the chain and use my good Stihl 25" 404 bar and chain.
It is a hardwood slayer!

 

[Terry Syd]

I took your suggestion and went to a 7-pin on my bucking saw. When I first started cutting I thought it was cutting a lot faster - then I remembered it was revving higher because it was geared down. I do think it may have given me a bit more chain life in the hard wood I'm cutting. I'm not sure yet, I'm going to have to go out and do a few more sessions, but it may be 10% or as high as 20% (I hope). In any case, it hasn't slowed down my cutting.

Give me a PM if you want to get rid of that chain and the 460 carb.

 

[Brewz]

The saw shouldn't rev higher with a sprocket change.
The saw is still running the same, just the chain is moving slower in the cut

How far are you from Newcastle?
I might have to come for a drive one day and help out with some 066 power

 

[Moparmyway]

The saw shouldn't rev higher with a sprocket change.
The saw is still running the same, just the chain is moving slower in the cut

The chain moving slower in the cut will enable the saw to turn a higher RPM

Its like going into second gear from third gear ........... the motor spins faster, but the car (or chain in this case) moves slower

Less load means higher RPM

 

[Brewz]

That makes sense

I have decided to build one killer 066 with the best of the bits from both saws. Will strip this one down to nothing as well and build from scratch with new bearings, seals, gaskets etc and use the OEM jug and piston, and fit a new set of Cabers I have in a box.
Will run it stock to start then slowly port it, learning as I go.
I need a running saw for a job at hand.

 

[Brewz]

I just stripped the 2nd 066 down to bits, split the case and pulled the bearings.

Tomorrows job is to clean all the parts up and start building a saw with all the good bits

I will get some pictures of the OEM jug compared to the after market one. The OEM jug looks to have bigger, more open transfers

The red light turned up as well
I am considering doing a bit of a restoration job on it

 

[Brewz]

Just went and fired up the red light and the red light works
Even has a metal chain on the back of the bar oil cap

Won't do and serious work with it untill I have given it a rebuild and make sure it is good to go

The front of the dual port muffler is banged up so will need some panel beating

 

[Brewz]

I measured the port positions on the OEM and AM jugs and there are some BIG differences.

OEM Exhaust roof height is about .040" higher than AM
OEM transfer openings are about .080" to .100" higher
OEM intake floor is about 0.030 lower but it has a similar roof so has more duration.

Here are some pics of the markings on the jug.
I would love if if someone could decipher the markings

 

[Brewz]

Another interesting thing I noticed was what looks like burnt carbon on the underside of the piston.
It also looks like there is some in the transfers.

Now this has me thinking back on what Terry said in the transfers thread about the pressure in the combustion chamber blowing back into the transfers when they first open.

But if they are pushing enough burnt gas in there to dirty up the underside of the piston, it will be diluting the fresh charge and affecting how much is drawn in in the first place.

Check it out.

 

[Brewz]

It dont look as good all in bits and coated in dirt, oil and sawdust.

What do people use to clean all the bits.

I have been thinking of getting a big bottle of degreaser but is diesel ok to use...... its much cheaper.
If I use diesel, does it leave a greasy layer on the parts?

 

[angelo c]

It dont look as good all in bits and coated in dirt, oil and sawdust.

What do people use to clean all the bits.

I have been thinking of getting a big bottle of degreaser but is diesel ok to use...... its much cheaper.
If I use diesel, does it leave a greasy layer on the parts?

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Is there anything more beautiful then an 066 waiting in parts for its rebirth ???

Congrats Brews....you'll be a happy daddy soon enough !!!

Anybody remember when we used to hand out cigars and have a smoke upon the arrival of a new addition to the family ?

 

[Brewz]

Haha.... I have twins with 2 of them stripped.

It will be quite the luxury to build one from the best bits