Huztl MS440 crank centering

[msmmce1]

Assembling my 1st kitsaw, a Huztl MS440. I've assembled the case and to get the e clip on the PTO side I have the crank slightly closer to that side, I have approx .030 between counterweight and bearing on the flywheel side and .015 on the PTO side, anyone know if this will cause a problem? Everything spins free.

Thanks

 

[stihl_head1982]

Its best to have the crank reasonably centered. Tap it with a brass hammer on the side where it is .030 then check it with a feeler gauge.

 

[msmmce1]

Tapping on the .030 side would make it more off center, the reason I have it set that way is so the E clip will go on the clutch side. If I center the crank I will not be able to get the E clip on, the question I ask is if running it this way would cause a problem? In reality it is only off center by approx .007-.008.
thanks

 

[Definitive Dave]

Huztl shipped out bearings that are incorrect in some saws and kits, off by enough to cause exactly the problem you describe sadly.
Dave

 

[msmmce1]

The bearings were already set in the cases with seals, I did not change their position. I think the PTO side bearing could be moved out .007 as the oil pump is not sitting tight on it. Everything has clearance and the crank turns free. It appears the big end in the crank has at least .007 to play with side to side?? The measurements I took were between the counterweight and the bearing.

 

[msmmce1]

Got the case assembled and I really do not want to break it down again to move the bearing a few thousandths if I don't have to.

Thanks

 

[Definitive Dave]

Guys had been reporting that one of the bearings was actually thicker than OEM and caused the problem

 

[msmmce1]

Well if that's the case I can't see it causing me a problem, everything spins free. I'm thinking I should measure to see if the conn rod is centered in the case opening.

Thank you for the info

 

[stihl_head1982]

Guys had been reporting that one of the bearings was actually thicker than OEM and caused the problem

This certainly puts this in a whole new light. Thanks for posting.

 

[msmmce1]

Hey, thank you!
The main problem I see would be stress on the small end due to being a tighter fit laterally than the big end, but as as long as the big end has plenty of lateral room I'm thinking it is ok.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Well if that's the case I can't see it causing me a problem, everything spins free. I'm thinking I should measure to see if the conn rod is centered in the case opening.

Thank you for the info

You think that PTO bearing is no big deal until it binds up the oil gear driven by the worm. At that point you can full disassemble and split the saw and replace or you spend 2 hours with a dremel and some diamond burs shaving the edge of the bearing off so you quit smoking oil pump drivers.

Anyone want to know how I know this? I also know I'm not alone with the experience I have..

Do yourself a favor... get an OEM PTO bearing. Bite the bullet and split the saw. In the end you will be way ahead.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I should also point out when someone asks me what a kit saw costs me I normally tell them $375-450 in actual cost; and that's the truth. If you are spending the time you obviously want it to run. It never easier than right now to do it right. In all of the kits I've built I have added a few OEM bits, replaced some AM bits, and had to do some tweaking to get them proper. To think you will be the lucky one that can buy a kit and everything work perfect when the seller clearly tells you they do not recommend assembling as a saw is silly.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Hey, thank you!
The main problem I see would be stress on the small end due to being a tighter fit laterally than the big end, but as as long as the big end has plenty of lateral room I'm thinking it is ok.

You will run the rod on the edge of the big end and the rod will then wear on the piston pin boss on the PTO side. I had pictures of a 359 I took apart that was like that in one of my 359 build threads. It ran for 6 months of commercial use that way.. it finally failed.

 

[msmmce1]

the bearing is actually farther away from the oil pump, just slightly under it does not touch

 

[Jimmy in NC]

the bearing is actually farther away from the oil pump, just slightly under it does not touch

I do not want to sound like a jerk, but you come here asking opinions stating you are new to building these. A few of us have spoke up to help you avoid a common issue and you keep defending you think it will be fine. By all means please put it together and run it that way. At this point you are $4 in seals and $20 in a bearing to do it a better way. HL states not recommended to build into a saw with just the kit. Dave who imports lots of this stuff even chimed in... maybe the voice of experience is hard to listen to?

I'll add no more here.

 

[msmmce1]

I think you misunderstand what I've said and I've not explained fully, this is just a toy for me and if it will see very limited use like maybe 3-4 tanks a year. I really want to see how much of the kit I can make work without purchasing OEM parts, if I experience a failure I will fix it. I really appreciate the input from experienced builders and I am listening, but by nature I question everything and like to see for myself. And BWT I have a set of OEM seals and an Oregon clutch drum so far.
Thank you!

 

[msmmce1]

I do not want to sound like a jerk, but you come here asking opinions stating you are new to building these. A few of us have spoke up to help you avoid a common issue and you keep defending you think it will be fine. By all means please put it together and run it that way. At this point you are $4 in seals and $20 in a bearing to do it a better way. HL states not recommended to build into a saw with just the kit. Dave who imports lots of this stuff even chimed in... maybe the voice of experience is hard to listen to?

I'll add no more here.

And I appreciate your advice and guidance!

 

[Funky sawman]

I think you misunderstand what I've said and I've not explained fully, this is just a toy for me and if it will see very limited use like maybe 3-4 tanks a year. I really want to see how much of the kit I can make work without purchasing OEM parts, if I experience a failure I will fix it. I really appreciate the input from experienced builders and I am listening, but by nature I question everything and like to see for myself. And BWT I have a set of OEM seals and an Oregon clutch drum so far.
Thank you!

Last china 440 i seen was unrebuildable after pto bearing failure. The pto bearing failed, then crank hit case and shot a chunk of case through the front fuel tank, which caught the saw on fire. It ended up kinda melted, what a mess it was trying to find out what happened

 

[stihl_head1982]

I believe I would split the case (knowing what I've learned) buy the Stihl PTO bearing and reassemble the case.
Look over a few of the build threads if need be to see what OEM parts need to be swapped insure reliability. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[msmmce1]

I believe I would split the case (knowing what I've learned) buy the Stihl PTO bearing and reassemble the case.
Look over a few of the build threads if need be to see what OEM parts need to be swapped insure reliability. Just my 2 pennies.

Do you know if the Stihl OEM bearing is a plastic cage?