Lets make a Stihl MS460

[redline4]

There may already be a thread, but I didn't see one on a quick search.
Either way, I'm putting one together so thought I would do a build thread.

Expect delays while I wait for parts, time or backtrack because I got ahead of myself.

Also, there's multiple ways of doing it and some better than my way, but this works for me.

I started with the pto side case and bolted up the oil pump


Oem proprietary bearing.


And with my heat gun, warm up the case..


Once it's ready, the bearing pretty much drops in and bottoms out on the previously bolted up oil pump. I keep a 1" socket close by in case a few light taps are required.


After that, I install the flywheel nut on the crank to keep the threads from getting boogered.
By the time I'm done with that, the heat from the case has soaked into the bearing. I will usually apply a little more heat if it's too cool.
And the crank drops in.



If necessary I will give it a few taps with a rubber mallet. I also support the inner bearing race with a piece of pipe. That will be in upcoming pics as only 5 pics per post are allowed.

 

[redline4]

Here's what I use to support that bearing. The side it ground to clear the oil pump driven gear.


For the other bearing I'm using a Koyo. I've used them before with good results.
It's a shielded bearing, so those needed to be removed.


And heat it up.



I keep the same 1" socket handy just in case..


And the bearing is in.


I usually smear a small amount of an anaerobic sealer on the gasket surfaces to help hold it, and install the case gasket.



More to come later

 

[dall]

There may already be a thread, but I didn't see one on a quick search.
Either way, I'm putting one together so thought I would do a build thread.

Expect delays while I wait for parts, time or backtrack because I got ahead of myself.

Also, there's multiple ways of doing it and some better than my way, but this works for me.

I started with the pto side case and bolted up the oil pump
View attachment 364480

Oem proprietary bearing.
View attachment 364481

And with my heat gun, warm up the case..
View attachment 364482

Once it's ready, the bearing pretty much drops in and bottoms out on the previously bolted up oil pump. I keep a 1" socket close by in case a few light taps are required.
View attachment 364485

After that, I install the flywheel nut on the crank to keep the threads from getting boogered.
By the time I'm done with that, the heat from the case has soaked into the bearing. I will usually apply a little more heat if it's too cool.
And the crank drops in.
View attachment 364486


If necessary I will give it a few taps with a rubber mallet. I also support the inner bearing race with a piece of pipe. That will be in upcoming pics as only 5 pics per post are allowed.

what brand 1 inch socket ?

 

[redline4]

what brand 1 inch socket ?

The cheapest pos that I have no clue where it came from seems to work the best.
You on your way up to dig that pond for me yet?

 

[redline4]

Here I support the inner bearing race with a socket. I believe it is a 9/16" deep.
Whenever using sockets, be sure they fit to the depth needed without getting stuck.
On the pto side, a 5/8 will work. Maybe. Depends on how deep the internal shoulder is. Where it may end up with the end of the crank stuck in it..yeah, I've done it.



A bit more heat on the bearing, start the bolts and line up the dowels.

Light taps with a rubber mallet if required and snug up the bolts.


Give the crank a tap on each side and it should spin free.

Remove the oil pump.
Here's the oil pump screen and hose.
I swipe a bit of oil on it.


And push it into place. The tab on it lines up with the case.

 

[redline4]

Here's a piece of tube I found that works perfect for installing the pto seal.
A little bit of oil, and tap into place.




And remember the piece I used to support the inner pto bearing race? The opposite side works great for a flywheel side seal installer.

 

[redline4]

Don't forget this seal before the oil pump.


Then the crankshaft snap ring, which I forgot and remembered as I was attempting to fall asleep and will need to take the oil pump back off..

Stick on the "never fits quite perfect" heat tape and with a razor, trim the case gaskets flush with the deck.

Next I'm jumping to the tensioner.
Install the o-ring. There were 2 under this one and it didn't work worth a crap..


Then the gear

Followed by the tensioner, thrust block at the end and tighten up the retaining screw.

 

[redline4]

Next I put the bar plate on.
It will need to come back off but I'm waiting to get my brake parts cleaned up and a new handle so it's one less thing to get lost in the shuffle.

 

[redline4]

Now I went to the recoil. It needed some work. Pulley, pawls and spring were toast.

I recall getting my aśs handed to me by recoil as a kid..


Unwind the rope, let the spring inside unwind.


Remove the clip and pawls.



And lift off the starter pulley.


If that spring is good, leave it alone...

 

[redline4]

Cut the rope


With a small propane torch I quickly melt the end of the rope to keep it from fraying.
Then feed it through and tie it off.


Line it up with the spring


Install the pawls, washer and clip

 

[redline4]

And wind the rope..

 

[dall]

Video?

 

[redline4]

Video?

Sure, I'll get a good video of you digging that pond for me ya slack asś.

 

[Loony661]

I see you said to oil the seals - I assume you add oil to the inner seal lip. I always put some good grease there, same principle, keep the seal lubricated. I always kept the outside metal ring of the seal dry though. Is that what you do as well?

 

[Stihlalltheway]

What’s all this you’re hiding in the background?

 

[redline4]

I see you said to oil the seals - I assume you add oil to the inner seal lip. I always put some good grease there, same principle, keep the seal lubricated. I always kept the outside metal ring of the seal dry though. Is that what you do as well?

If it's specified to or if there is a sealant on the seal I will keep it dry.
Otherwise I normally use a small amount of whatever fluid the seal in sealing in to lubricate it.
It's never caused an issue for me but I've seen dry metal being forced against dry metal cause an issue.

 

[redline4]

View attachment 364591What’s all this you’re hiding in the background?

That's something I just got yesterday.
Good catch Jack.

 

[Stihlalltheway]

That's something I just got yesterday.
Good catch Jack.

I like that a lot, I would highly recommend letting Kevin tickle it and add a wiseco for good measure

 

[Loony661]

If it's specified to or if there is a sealant on the seal I will keep it dry.
Otherwise I normally use a small amount of whatever fluid the seal in sealing in to lubricate it.
It's never caused an issue for me but I've seen dry metal being forced against dry metal cause an issue.

Thanks. Nobody like a dry rub causing an issue...

 

[beaglebriar]

If it's specified to or if there is a sealant on the seal I will keep it dry.
Otherwise I normally use a small amount of whatever fluid the seal in sealing in to lubricate it.
It's never caused an issue for me but I've seen dry metal being forced against dry metal cause an issue.

I'll usually coat the outer rim with 518 and lips with oil. Sometimes the two mix together like truffle butter.... never been an issue.