Lets build a Husqvarna 262XP, SCARR style!

[trooney]

Nice thread Shaun. Its interesting about the flywheel, just like the 394. I'm glad you can grind down the cylinder for clearance on the 394 instead of the flywheel.

 

[srcarr52]

Right stuff??

Yes, looks like autocorrect got me.

 

[srcarr52]

Nice thread Shaun. Its interesting about the flywheel, just like the 394. I'm glad you can grind down the cylinder for clearance on the 394 instead of the flywheel.

I nip 394/395 flywheels a little so I don’t have to grind so much on the cylinder. But I drop the cylinder a fair amount.

 

[trooney]

I nip 394/395 flywheels a little so I don’t have to grind so much on the cylinder. But I drop the cylinder a fair amount.

Gotcha. That cylinder you did for me I just ground the cylinder. Dont trust myself grinding the flywheel!! Lol

 

[srcarr52]

Gotcha. That cylinder you did for me I just ground the cylinder. Dont trust myself grinding the flywheel!! Lol

Whatever it takes. Those are really fun saws when I get through with them.

 

[pbillyi69]

i love that song it has been my experience in life the words in at song are pure truth....i have a broken picker.... lol

 

[srcarr52]

I had a few parts mingle in today but not enough to finish it. So in the mean time lets make an auto return kill switch for this.

First you need an auto return switch from say a T540 or some weed eaters. I have the one from the weedeaters because they are cheaper.

T540 part number 522798201
345X FXT part number 537419001

Next you need a donor switch for the ground strap and it has to be an easy to pull apart switch. The OEM one from this era is not easy to get apart so I'll be using a cheap china switch just for the ground strap.



Stab a small screwdriver in the side and pry it out.



Bam, we have the donor ground strap and the rest can go in the trash.

 

[srcarr52]

Do the same to the auto return switch and fit in the new ground strap.



Push it back together with the switch in the run position.

 

[srcarr52]

Now you just need to install it. The housing for the auto return spring hits the case a little and is flexed upwards, but it looks like it will be fine.

About $15-20 in parts and shipping, not looking like an idiot trying to start a saw with the kill switch set to off... priceless!

 

[srcarr52]

The carb kit came in. Genuine Walbro H22-HDA kit.



We'll just quickly explode this thing, then give everything a quick rinse with some brake clean. I even remove the needles and shoot some cleaner through them.

 

[srcarr52]

First we'll put in a new screen and throw the top of the carb on. Line up the gasket on the top cap and crank it down.



Then we'll hook up the pressure tester and see what's going on.

 

[srcarr52]

Time for some soap and water...

After scaping a little high spot off the carb surface and tightening the crap out of it I get just a very slow leak at the one vent.



Seems these carbs have some pretty thin gaskets right around the 2nd flapper valve (bottom one) that is allowing air to escape to the vent above the screen.

 

[srcarr52]

After getting the gaskets to sit just right and tightening the carb top to where the bolt was about to yield we have success!

 

[srcarr52]

We'll do a quick pop off and needle reseating test.

And then assemble the diaphragm. I think this model should have the lever just slight below the carb surface, there are so many different settings that it's hard to keep track of. So I usually just set it to where a screwdriver will just slight bump the rivet when you have it all sitting together.

 

[srcarr52]

Final parts of the puzzle are here.

 

[srcarr52]

Since I dropped the cylinder so far we have to clearance for the intake block. Easy way is to grind on the partition.



It’s hard to keep the gaskets in place when assembling these so we’ll use a couple small dabs of 3 bond to hold it in place.



Put a little weight on it while it dries.

 

[srcarr52]

Once again dropping the cylinder puts stress on the carb bolts and such so we’ll have to remedy that the rear carb mount is trying to bend the carb bolts.




I usually like to vacuum the grinding while grinding on a case, the intake is taped off and I’ll blow it off when done but the vacuum Kees the chips from getting too far.



All done, the bolts are more neutral now. I ground off the minimum needed so I could still keep a nice press on the filter neck boot to top cover.

 

[srcarr52]

Make sure you leave plenty of fuel line so you can do a loop up and forward here to miss the linkage.

We’ll bolt the rear carb mount down with a little blue loctite on the threads as you can’t tighten these up super tight without crushing the mounts.

I also cut a gasket for between the carb and the filter neck as this saw drawls all the air over the carb so I want to try to keep it from sucking fines there.

 

[TreeLife]

Can't wait to see this puppy rip.

 

[srcarr52]

I had ordered a new left front AV limiter but it never showed up. They look pretty similar to a 288 rear AV mount. So I’ll chop one up to make a new one.



Cut off and used a sanding wheel to shape it a bit.



Fits great, just make sure to grind some off the bolt so it tights down and doesn’t bottom out on the mount.