Lets make a Stihl MS460

[dall]

I'll usually coat the outer rim with 518 and lips with oil. Sometimes the two mix together like truffle butter.... never been an issue.

pictures of the lips

 

[redline4]

Back at it a bit.

Took the oil pump back off


And installed the snap ring I forgot.


Then bolted the pump back up hopefully for the last time.


New Stihl pin bearing and piston.


I slob them up with mix oil. Pin bearing in rod, pin into piston.


Then, I find it easiest to put the whole thing on its side with the piston on a 2x4.

 

[redline4]

And pop the clip in.


I always position the opening at the bottom.


And the jug.

 

[redline4]

Keyway in.


And the flywheel.
Gives something to turn it over by..



I like to look at it from the top to verify theres no gap between the ring compressor and piston. If there is, your ring(s) arent lined up with the pins properly.




Some oil on the piston, slid the jug on and bolted it up.

Checked squish with no gasket..

 

[redline4]

Going with no base gasket.


Bigger the gob is not better the job.


I get all 4 cylinder bolts started.


Then set it down and tighten it down.

 

[redline4]

Stop buffers into the case.



And the AV buffers.

 

[redline4]

Line up the intake and tighten the clamp.


I then put the impulse on the case

Fish the coil wires through




Line up the buffers and install the screws.
Install the caps.

 

[redline4]

Intake inner and outer rings.


Decomp and grommet


And new spark plug.

 

[redline4]

I opened up the muffler outlet.



It goes jug, heat shield, gasket, muffler.


Spot weld drill bit was used to remove the internal baffles.

I also start the lower bolts into the case while bolting it to the jug.



Remove the lower bolts and install the front cover.

 

[redline4]

Oil pump drive



Followed by the washer



And the clutch



I didn't install the brake parts yet as I need to get a non broken brake handle.

 

[redline4]

Coil on..
I've found the the cardboard packaging from a new plug gets the coil gap pretty much right on.




Bolted on the previously fixed recoil.


And I find it easiest to stand them on the front to install the front handle.



And here's where it sits.



That's all for today.

 

[Funky sawman]

Should be running today ehh?
Always loved tinkering on those 1128 saws

 

[redline4]

Should be running today ehh?
Always loved tinkering on those 1128 saws

If I wanted to run it with no brake, yeah.

 

[redline4]

On to the carb.
Limiters are for hippies and small children. They have to go.

I put a screw into one, then with side cutters, "lever" them and the retaining plate out of the carb.



Once that's out, the other limiter cap just falls out.

I put the plate back in, it helps line the screwdriver up when adjusting.


I then set both needles to the recommended starting point of 1 turn out on both the H and L.

 

[redline4]

The carb slides onto the studs, line up the fuel and impulse hoses and push it on.


Seal for the compensating port


And push the adjustment screw grommet in through the side of the airbox and onto the carb.


Then remove the screw on the rear handle


Lift off the cover.
The operator presence lever will likely fly out at you.

 

[redline4]

Hook the throttle rod into the carb.


Carb plate and grommet sidle onto the studs and airbox


And connect the rod to the happy trigger..
Push the spring down with the presence lever and hold in place.


Hook the cover into the front


And pivot it down making sure the throttle lever is on the outside of it.
Reinstall the screw.

 

[redline4]

Push on the filter base and make sure it lines up with the airbox.
This one is a farmertec. I had to do a little grinding where it goes over the control switch shaft to allow it to move freely, just fyi. It's a good time to check that the switch moves through all functions.


Install the air horn. I use lock nuts. Don't want one going through the engine if it comes loose.


Spitback plate goes on.



Followed by the air filter.
I use either the Stihl pre-filter wrap or an Outerwears pre-filter on all my HD2 Stihls. Just a preference and I don't have the filter issues many seem to.

 

[redline4]

Bolted on the spike and chain catcher.




And here it is.


The brake handle should be here this week and I'm thinking I'll paint the ugly plastics I have for it.
Probably finish up next weekend.

 

[Funky sawman]

Bolted on the spike and chain catcher.

View attachment 366362


And here it is.
View attachment 366361

The brake handle should be here this week and I'm thinking I'll paint the ugly plastics I have for it.
Probably finish up next weekend.

Spitback plates are overrated. The 044/ 440 never had one, neither did 038, ms380 ms381 or ms382, or any HD 064 or older HD 066. Nothing wrong with the foam under the filter. I know folks argue that they direct airflow into the venture but after some talks with OSHA, they convinced me that the intake air horn is to reduce noise, so the particular saw can pass noise requirements.

 

[redline4]

Spitback plates are overrated. The 044/ 440 never had one, neither did 038, ms380 ms381 or ms382, or any HD 064 or older HD 066. Nothing wrong with the foam under the filter. I know folks argue that they direct airflow into the venture but after some talks with OSHA, they convinced me that the intake air horn is to reduce noise, so the particular saw can pass noise requirements.

I've ran quite a bit of fuel through an 046 without one and without foam in the filter with zero issue.
It was actually there on this saw so I figured I'd put it back. For now at least. That way if someone is trying to figure out how to put one together and stumbles across this, it should show them how it all fits together.