Husqvarna 2100 thread

[Frank bierce]

I just finished building this little 285-2100 hybrid saw. its some very clean 285 cases with a 2100 top end on it. the 2100 case that it originally had has a crack directly under the crankshaft that opens up when the saw warms up and goes lean, the saw was impossible to tune when it warmed up so I went searching for the cause. after a very exhaustive search, I finally removed the tank and found the crack. I think I will try and repair the case with JB weld or something like it.

The saw now runs really well, I did a mild port and base gasket removal, I also blocked the governor and opened up the muffler and removed the baffling.

Pretty fun saw and I sure wish someone would begin making parts for them again....like ignitions and oilers

Good find on the cracked case!! Would have been another lost piston/cylinder if not!! Sounds like you made quite the runner.

 

[Marshy]

Fellas, I have a friend tell me his 2100 manual oiler is pumping fuel instead of bar oil but the fuel isnt leaking into the oil tank. A little confusing but I'm thinking it needs new o-rings. What you say?

I found the o-ring part #'s from several pages back so I passed them along.

 

[Stump Shot]

Fellas, I have a friend tell me his 2100 manual oiler is pumping fuel instead of bar oil but the fuel isnt leaking into the oil tank. A little confusing but I'm thinking it needs new o-rings. What you say?

I found the o-ring part #'s from several pages back so I passed them along.

Yes, manual oiler goes through the fuel tank to get to the oil tank.

 

[Marshy]

Yes, manual oiler goes through the fuel tank to get to the oil tank.

Yeah, guess I never realized it passed through both. I've never actually pulled one.

 

[Rogee]

Just picked up this unit from an old guy that no longer has the strength to start it . After a new kill switch anda clean it actually goes ok . Are there carb kits available for these still . Its a Tillotson.

 

[fossil]

Just picked up this unit from an old guy that no longer has the strength to start it . After a new kill switch anda clean it actually goes ok . Are there carb kits available for these still . Its a Tillotson.

I got mine the same way. The owner had .064" of cylinder base gaskets in it to lower compression.

The carb kit is common. RK-23HS

 

[Rogee]

Th

I got mine the same way. The owner had .064" of cylinder base gaskets in it to lower compression.

The carb kit is common. RK-23HS

Thanks for that i will see what I can find . That detail was probley in the thread but I ain't good time to read the whole thing . How do these compare to a 395 for power someone will have run both

 

[fossil]

Just picked up this unit from an old guy that no longer has the strength to start it . After a new kill switch anda clean it actually goes ok . Are there carb kits available for these still . Its a Tillotson.

I see your AF cover is cracked. They are fairly rare and expensive.

I used this method to stop it from going further and make it strong. I bought the stainless steel screen for Aliexpress for a few dollars and used a soldering iron.

 

[Rogee]

I see your AF cover is cracked. They are fairly rare and expensive.

I used this method to stop it from going further and make it strong. I bought the stainless steel screen for Aliexpress for a few dollars and used a soldering iron.

That is legend advice . I've already had it welded by some guy in town that makes plastic tanks ,toolboxes etc and it lasted literally 2 min , cracked while I was tuning it on bench and cost me $40 . Will have a go with your method , then I'll go and teach the plastic guy how to weld plastic hahaha .

 

[Lee H]

My 2100 was an ebay deal that i'm very happy with although it
is a som *b-word to pull over and a very strong runner. I have heard
that the 2100's have a smaller recoil pulley which makes it harder
to pull over. Not sure if this info is true. I have a 298 as well and
it starts easier.

 

[Rogee]

I

My 2100 was an ebay deal that i'm very happy with although it
is a som *b-word to pull over and a very strong runner. I have heard
that the 2100's have a smaller recoil pulley which makes it harder
to pull over. Not sure if this info is true. I have a 298 as well and
it starts easier.

I payed $500 nz for it with 2 20 inch bars and windsor 34 404. Never had Windsor before so not sure how good it is but thought it was worth a go

 

[raumati01]

I

I payed $500 nz for it with 2 20 inch bars and windsor 34 404. Never had Windsor before so not sure how good it is but thought it was worth a go

nice. I have a 298 I need to put a piston in , Dukes who are one of the site sponsors sells them now

 

[Rogee]

nice. I have a 298 I need to put a piston in , Dukes who are one of the site sponsors sells them now

I'm still learning these big huskys . Whats the difference with a 298 .

 

[raumati01]

I'm still learning these big huskys . Whats the difference with a 298 .

pretty much the same , just some minor differences from what I understand

 

[Lee H]

Biggest difference is the 298 does not have a manual oiler.

 

[Catbuster]

The 298 is a fair bit lighter than a 2100. No manual oiler, lighter (weaker) starter, some later flywheels, ignition coils and mufflers where the same as the 2101, if I remember correctly.

Adressing the above post as to
2100 vs 395... A 395 is way more user friendly. It spins up a little faster, is lighter, turns faster (if the 2100’s governor is functional), and will walk away from a 2100 with up to... Probably a 36” bar. 36-42 I’d say they’re close. But a 2100 will handle a 48-60” bar much better. Not that a 395 won’t pull one, because it will better than any other current offering between 90 and 100cc, but the longer stroke of a 2100 aids in it making better power at lower RPM. Just remember... The 395 is effectively a longer crank from being a 2100 in a different shell. I’ve never seen a 395 stroker, but I’d bet it would have almost the same running characteristics as a 2100 with the governor blocker off.

 

[Al Smith]

I was tearing into my 2100 today, split the case and found this. Looks like it got a little hot sometime? Or is this simply from the heat treatment process? First saw I ever split the case on.

What do you think?

The bluing is caused by the use of an induction heater used to heat the crankshaft rotating assembly during fabrication . On older connecting rods on auto engines the pin end is heated and the pin pressed you can see the same bluing . Nothing to worry about .

 

[Al Smith]

I've been told the 2100 had some kind of a carb that used a ball that rattled around and limited the RPM's .If so I've never delved into it but think mine has been pepped up a tad .It came from some island off of Washington state and does better than the average .I have no intention of making a racer out of it and does a fine job just as it is .I'm going check the compression on that thing which might tell the tale .

 

[fossil]

I've been told the 2100 had some kind of a carb that used a ball that rattled around and limited the RPM's .If so I've never delved into it but think mine has been pepped up a tad .It came from some island off of Washington state and does better than the average .I have no intention of making a racer out of it and does a fine job just as it is .I'm going check the compression on that thing which might tell the tale .

Those carb governors are quite common. Tillotson and Walbro used them.
There's a hole beside the metering needle well which is blocked off by the ball in the governor. The governor shows as a brass plug beside the choke lever on the carb.

The ball is held down by a spring.

The ball is designed to vibrate at a certain frequency.

That causes the ball to lift off it's seat which opens the passage beside the metering needle and dumps fuel into the venturi.

I hope that makes sense.

 

[Rogee]

So if you block that hole off they will rev higher . Would that be bad for them or will they handle it