2100 CD Build

[farminkarman]

Great build Gregg. TY.

I like the uppers and tunnels.

I’ve got a “crate” of these. I gotta get to them, and your build is a big help.

I wonder if the jugs could be drilled for a decomp.

After building this 2100, there are a few thoughts I will share. First, starting the saw isn't bad at all with .020" from the band and a 98 exhaust roof. Second, if I were doing another one, I think I would still use the 395 piston. I would also raise the exhaust to 96, transfers to 116 sloped to 118, and epoxy the intake to set it at 76-77. Along with raising the intake floor back up with epoxy, I would probably raise the intake roof a bit to get more area and offset the 0.070" the jug was lowered by machine work. I would also look at trying to swap in a 394xp carb.

 

[Squareground3691]

After building this 2100, there are a few thoughts I will share. First, starting the saw isn't bad at all with .020" from the band and a 98 exhaust roof. Second, if I were doing another one, I think I would still use the 395 piston. I would also raise the exhaust to 96, transfers to 116 sloped to 118, and epoxy the intake to set it at 76-77. Along with raising the intake floor back up with epoxy, I would probably raise the intake roof a bit to get more area and offset the 0.070" the jug was lowered by machine work. I would also look at trying to swap in a 394xp carb.

Yea Greg , it’s not at all hard pull , but when ur used to no - decomp saws like bunch I have I’m used to it , But my 125’s and kart saws has a little temper lol ,
Great job again, Greg

 

[Sloughfoot]

Have you put a compression tester on it? With stock gasket, cylinder, new piston and rings mine reads under 150 lb. Feels 20 lb more than my 044 that's at 160.

 

[Squareground3691]

Have you put a compression tester on it? With stock gasket, cylinder, new piston and rings mine reads under 150 lb. Feels 20 lb more than my 044 that's at 160.

No I haven’t, but my 266XS’s have any were from 210 - 215 lbs and is a fair bit harder to pull , The saw will go up as the rings seat in after breaking in ,

 

[farminkarman]

No I haven’t, but my 266XS’s have any were from 210 - 215 lbs and is a fair bit harder to pull ,

And the rings are brand new, so compression should pick up a bit.

 

[Woodwackr]

After building this 2100, there are a few thoughts I will share. First, starting the saw isn't bad at all with .020" from the band and a 98 exhaust roof. Second, if I were doing another one, I think I would still use the 395 piston. I would also raise the exhaust to 96, transfers to 116 sloped to 118, and epoxy the intake to set it at 76-77. Along with raising the intake floor back up with epoxy, I would probably raise the intake roof a bit to get more area and offset the 0.070" the jug was lowered by machine work. I would also look at trying to swap in a 394xp carb.

What would you do to get the max in torque for long bars?

 

[Sloughfoot]

No I haven’t, but my 266XS’s have any were from 210 - 215 lbs and is a fair bit harder to pull , The saw will go up as the rings seat in after breaking in ,

Yeh, figure mine will too like usual. I like it as is but figure it'll go up 10% or so with break in and a bit more if I delete the base gasket and port it. I've got a decomp that I may install when it does. I can maybe do something with the starter assembly too. I'm thinking the reason it's harder to pull but measures lower compression than my 044 is in the starter rope length/pulley diameter combo.

 

[farminkarman]

What would you do to get the max in torque for long bars?

I did the 98 exhaust for this one because it was going to wear a 42" bar. If a person was going to run longer (like 60"), I would probably go more for 100 on the exhaust and keep the transfers down a bit. The saw would make less power, but would also be easier to manage with that long of a bar.

 

[Squareground3691]

What would you do to get the max in torque for long bars?

Yeh, figure mine will too like usual. I like it as is but figure it'll go up 10% or so with break in and a bit more if I delete the base gasket and port it. I've got a decomp that I may install when it does. I can maybe do something with the starter assembly too. I'm thinking the reason it's harder to pull but measures lower compression than my 044 is in the starter rope length/pulley diameter combo.

Those big saws don’t need a ton of compression to perform, it’s more about pulling long bars , and bottom end torque, as Greg did on this saw ,If you do more spicy and racey, then yes more compression,

 

[Woodwackr]

I did the 98 exhaust for this one because it was going to wear a 42" bar. If a person was going to run longer (like 60"), I would probably go more for 100 on the exhaust and keep the transfers down a bit. The saw would make less power, but would also be easier to manage with that long of a bar.

Less power? Sacrilege!

 

[hacskaroly]

Those big saws don’t need a ton of compression to perform, it’s more about pulling long bars , and bottom end torque

Less power? Sacrilege!

From what I understand these saws are not supposed to race through wood, but grunt their way through.

 

[Squareground3691]

From what I understand these saws are not supposed to race through wood, but grunt their way through.

Exactly

 

[Sloughfoot]

Those big saws don’t need a ton of compression to perform, it’s more about pulling long bars , and bottom end torque, as Greg did on this saw ,If you do more spicy and racey, then yes more compression,

Yeh, I won't try to make it something that it isn't. I got it for the torqie tractor like manners. It's primary bar will be a 32"(mainly because that's as long as I care to work with) and a 42" for the mill. It apparently doesn't take high compression for a 2100 to be a bear to start.

 

[Al Smith]

New carb . You have to remember with the OEM Tilley HS carb it had a rattle ball gov which I think kept it around 10,000 RPM .Which should be in the torque band . The replacement am carb I think was for a 288 with no rattle ball . I had to switch the throttle shaft with the OEM because it had a roller like a 281 and perhaps others ( I'm a Husky expert by any means .) I bought the carb through "Duke " in PA
.As far as felt compression compairing an 044 to a 2100 .Remember an 044 is 70 cc and a 2100 is 99 .

 

[Sloughfoot]

New carb . You have to remember with the OEM Tilley HS carb it had a rattle ball gov which I think kept it around 10,000 RPM .Which should be in the torque band . The replacement am carb I think was for a 288 with no rattle ball . I had to switch the throttle shaft with the OEM because it had a roller like a 281 and perhaps others ( I'm a Husky expert by any means .) I bought the carb through "Duke " in PA
.As far as felt compression compairing an 044 to a 2100 .Remember an 044 is 70 cc and a 2100 is 99 .

Is that why the 2100 measures 20 lb lower compression than the 044 but is much harder to pull, because it's 29CC larger?

 

[Al Smith]

I have no idea how much comp an unaltered 2100 has but this one is 180 PSI static .If it is modified it came that way because I've never had the cylinder off and if I had being a novice on Husqvarna I would not know the difference . The two Partner P-100's I rebuilt during the Covid lock down are around 140-150 .Exact same bore and stroke as the 2100 but I haven't ran them long enough to seat the rings since . That's one of the problems of having a shed full of saws ,they never get enough run time .Especially on small stuff for fire wood .What a 99 cc saw to cut 12 inch stuff ?

 

[hacskaroly]

What a 99 cc saw to cut 12 inch stuff ?

Drop a 16 or 18 inch bar with full skip and watch the 2100 sing!

Messing around I put a 7” Makita bar on a Stihl MS 170 with a full skip 3\8p chain (yes I knocked out every link and put it back together full skip…lots of master links, 33 DL if I remember correctly). It fit just fine, but the store wouldn’t let me fire it up.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Drop a 16 or 18 inch bar with full skip and watch the 2100 sing!

Messing around I put a 7” Makita bar on a Stihl MS 170 with a full skip 3\8p chain (yes I knocked out every link and put it back together full skip…lots of master links, 33 DL if I remember correctly). It fit just fine, but the store wouldn’t let me fire it up.

Silly retailers have no appreciation for science and no stomach for trauma.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Thought I was finished (fresh stickers and all) but had a constant weeping of bar oil. Fingers crossed this missing plug is the reason.