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Grease Monkey Garage

mainer_in_ak

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1st test run: Bad exuahst leak. Turbo to up-pipe flange. The tolerances are so tight, the turbo clamp can't be relied upon to cinch it all together.

Those kc turbos nerds only show one method with everything out of the truck. It didn't work:

I walked away from the vehicle when I thought of lighting it up with a 12 gauge.

After rest, an idea came to me:
Get a camera back there and see where the misalignment is, with the turbo clamp removed. It was maybe at most, a 1/8" misalignment at the bottom.

Nobody has mentioned this anywhere, but what I ended up doing was fishing a ratchet strap back there around the back side of the up-pipe flange. Hooked one end to the rear engine hoist eye, the other end to the front tow hook. As I cinched er down, I tapped on the up-pipe flange with a 4ft breaker bar. She went home!

To work on everything was aweful mechanic yoga:
Place tools on woodstove to get them warm to the touch. Race outside and have at er before those tools go back to single digit temps.
Jam forearm between turbo and firewall till your bleeding. Rest forehead on lip of firewall. Laying completely over top of engine, rest sternum over top of alternator.


Bolted the turbo clamp and then removed the ratchet strap. Massive exauhst leak gone.

Misalignment:
Screenshot-20251104-142451-Video-Player.jpg

After ratchet strap + breaker bar taps:
Screenshot-20251104-150305-Video-Player.jpg

Screenshot-20251105-091704-Video-Player.jpg


20251104-145612.jpg

20251104-144005.jpg
 
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Agr516

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I have fought that turbo to up-pipe flange before myself. It is a pain in the genitals for sure. I also have fantasized about harming my truck mid-project as well. Told my wife once that i wanted to parking the *f-wording thing on a brush pile and light it on fire.
 

Yukon Stihl

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1st test run: Bad exuahst leak. Turbo to up-pipe flange. The tolerances are so tight, the turbo clamp can't be relied upon to cinch it all together.

Those kc turbos nerds only show one method with everything out of the truck. It didn't work:

I walked away from the vehicle when I thought of lighting it up with a 12 gauge.

After rest, an idea came to me:
Get a camera back there and see where the misalignment is, with the turbo clamp removed. It was maybe at most, a 1/8" misalignment at the bottom.

Nobody has mentioned this anywhere, but what I ended up doing was fishing a ratchet strap back there around the back side of the up-pipe flange. Hooked one end to the rear engine hoist eye, the other end to the front tow hook. As I cinched er down, I tapped on the up-pipe flange with a 4ft breaker bar. She went home!

To work on everything was aweful mechanic yoga:
Place tools on woodstove to get them warm to the touch. Race outside and have at er before those tools go back to single digit temps.
Jam forearm between turbo and firewall till your bleeding. Rest forehead on lip of firewall. Laying completely over top of engine, rest sternum over top of alternator.


Bolted the turbo clamp and then removed the ratchet strap. Massive exauhst leak gone.

Misalignment:
Screenshot-20251104-142451-Video-Player.jpg

After ratchet strap + breaker bar taps:
Screenshot-20251104-150305-Video-Player.jpg

Screenshot-20251105-091704-Video-Player.jpg


20251104-145612.jpg

20251104-144005.jpg
I have found the latex mechanic’s gloves really help working outside in the winter.
Snow never melts on your hand to make it cold
 

mainer_in_ak

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I have found the latex mechanic’s gloves really help working outside in the winter.
Snow never melts on your hand to make it cold
Was so tight back there, I needed dexterity of bare hands.

Once it hits below zero and something gets stupid, I actually plug in a compact hairdryer near whatever I'm working on.
 

mainer_in_ak

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I have fought that turbo to up-pipe flange before myself. It is a pain in the genitals for sure. I also have fantasized about harming my truck mid-project as well. Told my wife once that i wanted to parking the *f-wording thing on a brush pile and light it on fire.
I much prefer working on the 6bt cummins. Everything is accessible from the left and right side, less bllsht electronic sht too.

Then the 292 chevy and 300 ford:
The greatest mechanic experience ever.

I heard that a Ford technician ended up snapping in the middle of a 6.4 powerstroke job and ended up in a mental health institution.

Wrenching on an old 300 ford 1-ton got him enjoying his job again.
 

Yukon Stihl

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Broke an injector line on my KW about 40 miles from home
Drove it home tried to get as much snow dust on it as I could
Had to rob a line of my backup truck, which would have been a quick job, but it’s a Western Star with a 4 cylinder air compressor. So it had to be removed before I could get to the injector end.
No pics I was under the gun to get it fixed as I had another trip to do tomorrow for another load of sea cans IMG_3076.jpegIMG_3087.jpeg
 

redline4

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I thought you liked the general tires better?

I liked the Generals. For what this truck does I prefer the duratrac's.
I went to the Generals because they were $100 a tire cheaper when I got them. The Goodyears skyrocketed when GM started putting them oem on the AT4 and Trail Boss trucks.
Now prices have equalized and they are within $5 of each other.
 

mainer_in_ak

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For us cold climate folks: Everybody knows them duratracs are one of the best winter all season tires. Congrats on the set! Plenty of traction on a heavy 4wd where a "one n done" tire does all seasons.

Then blizzaks and toyo observes: Best of the best on the family car!

Out in Davidwyby country, they rap about 20+ rims.

In cold country, why is nobody bragging bout blizzaks n duratracs in a rap song?

Little further north, some fkn nerd was rapping bout bout Elans. Hahahaha. 😄, he couldn't just stick to rapping Christmas presents:

 

mainer_in_ak

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New timken bearings on the grip pros. Put them bearings on the wood stove at 300 deg. F. Differentials were outside at five below zero.

Some light assembly oil and them hot bearings went onto the chilly carriers like butter.

No hydraulic press out here so I tried out the "smash pucks". They're machined from some sort of rugged plastic. They have a recess for the carrier housing and center themselves tightly inside the outter bearing race, sitting perfectly on the inner race.

Them smash pucks work better as a pair so the bottom of the differential (bearing or no bearing) is supported. These smash pucks also be used in a press.

For driving home carrier bearings, they're supperior to using old parts bearings or sockets because them smash pucks self-align tightly inside of the outer bearing race. They don't move around. Smart fkn home-job tool!


20251110-164913.jpg

20251110-164959.jpg

20251110-164929.jpg
 
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redline4

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New timken bearings on the grip pros. Put them bearings on the wood stove at 300 deg. F. Differentials were outside at five below zero.

Some light assembly oil and them hot bearings went onto the chilly carriers like butter.

No hydraulic press out here so I tried out the "smash pucks". They're machined from some sort of rugged plastic. They have a recess for the carrier housing and center themselves tightly inside the outter bearing race, sitting perfectly on the inner race.

Them smash pucks work better as a pair so the bottom of the bottom of the differential is supported. Could also be used in a press.

20251110-164913.jpg

20251110-164959.jpg

20251110-164929.jpg

GM has bearing drivers like that for most of their carrier bearings. I've been installing them like that for many years now without issue
 
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