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Axes and associated items

HumBurner

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Yeah the x27 or other splitting axes are ok in easier wood or once it gets broken down some. I’m usually in big stuff with interlocking grain. An 8 to break down and 5 to finish works, or just a 6lb maul.
That's why I Iike the x27 head, the wedged-angle as the head tapers back acts as a maul, not just an axe.

I also assume you understand reading the grain and twist of the wood, so you aren't just splitting without intention. I had a buddy running another buddy's wood-splitter helping me with a couple jobs. We hit crunch time after I finished bucking, so I split down a bunch of 24-36" tan oak rounds for his ease on getting them onto the foot. He stopped and said "you're splitting by hand faster than I can with the splitter. Why am I here?" I said "cause you need the money, and I don't want to burn out"
 

HumBurner

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Yeah the x27 or other splitting axes are ok in easier wood or once it gets broken down some. I’m usually in big stuff with interlocking grain. An 8 to break down and 5 to finish works, or just a 6lb maul.
Also, you're usually splitting really dead stuff, hardened by the conditions, plus extra sand.

Our toughest live oak or twistiest/knottiest madrone may not even come close to comparing to the Euc or live oak you see.


Edit: another factor is round-length. We usually buck between 14-16", unless a client wants smaller or larger. Splitting a 16" round compared to a 20" round is significant.
 

Chainmale

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A double bit I bought off Ebay from the states. Not many double bits down here in New Zealand, so bit the bullet and paid nearly double in freight for the cost of the head. Found a handle that didn't take too much work to hang. And here she is in her New home.IMG_20241201_140650.jpgIMG_20241201_140618.jpgIMG_20241201_140556.jpgIMG_20241201_140538.jpgIMG_20241201_140529.jpg
 
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