262XP Rebuild - Junk Pile Save

[XP_Slinger]

I know I said I was gonna run it stock and I am except for this thick base gasket.



I made my own gasket out of material .028 thick and squish came in at .032. Nothing extreme, just a little shot in the arm. Going on past 2-series experience it should pump up to about 185psi, right where I like it. If you do the math you see why a delete isn’t an option, roughly only .004 squish without a gasket.

 

[XP_Slinger]

So let’s see where the numbers are.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Ed Herd recommended timing ports using duration in a conversation so that's the method I’ve used since. I got the following numbers:

Exhaust - 102
Transfer - 122.5
Intake - 68.25

Not that I’m grinding yet, but I see a saw that could benefit from more intake and slightly less blowdown. I wouldn’t go any higher on the exhaust. But, as I said I’m going to run it as is for a while, a porting thread will be in the future. Although, with the work Dan and Doc have done recently on these I don’t know how much benefit it would be to post my shade tree porting lol!!!

 

[XP_Slinger]

Here’s where she sits until I get my order of small stuff tomorrow....hopefully. Some may wonder why I didn’t put the carb on the cylinder before assembly. Well, it’s because a carb kit was one of the things I forgot to order initially, yep pretty dumb. With any luck I’ll be finishing this up tomorrow night while Joe is porting Dans 359 cylinder.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Got a question for you pros. What’s your thoughts on using OEM circlips with a Meteor piston and wrist pin? The OEM ones seem to be a little thinner in diameter and I noticed the wrist pin floated between the clips a little more. I just don’t like the design of the meteor clips because they only contact about 2/3 of the pin.

So stick with OEM or use the meteor clips? Or does it matter?

 

[paragonbuilder]

Ed Herd recommended timing ports using duration in a conversation so that's the method I’ve used since. I got the following numbers:

Exhaust - 102
Transfer - 122.5
Intake - 68.25

Not that I’m grinding yet, but I see a saw that could benefit from more intake and slightly less blowdown. I wouldn’t go any higher on the exhaust. But, as I said I’m going to run it as is for a while, a porting thread will be in the future. Although, with the work Dan and Doc have done recently on these I don’t know how much benefit it would be to post my shade tree porting lol!!!

That sounds about what I’ve seen, if set for .020 squish stock jugs have been close to 103 123 69 if I remember correctly.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Got a question for you pros. What’s your thoughts on using OEM circlips with a Meteor piston and wrist pin? The OEM ones seem to be a little thinner in diameter and I noticed the wrist pin floated between the clips a little more. I just don’t like the design of the meteor clips because they only contact about 2/3 of the pin.

So stick with OEM or use the meteor clips? Or does it matter?

The groove is larger on the meteor, i’d use the meteor clips

 

[XP_Slinger]

That sounds about what I’ve seen, if set for .020 squish stock jugs have been close to 103 123 69 if I remember correctly.

Those are some pretty good numbers, not much adjustment needed IMO

The groove is larger on the meteor, if use the meteor clips

That’s what I was thinking Dan, thanks. I’ll pull the jug back off and install the meteor circlips.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Yeah that’s why they are factory hot rods Josh. Mostly a compression bump and breathing enhancement. Pay attention to how the factory ports look.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Yeah that’s why they are factory hot rods Josh. Mostly a compression bump and breathing enhancement. Pay attention to how the factory ports look.

I’ve been studying it, trying to wrap my head around dynamic flow. One thing I still don’t like that I see on a lot of saws is the staggered transfers that open the intake side first. They did it for a reason, but I don’t understand that reason yet...still thinking on it.

 

[Simondo]

Enjoying your thread Josh .
As Dan said , there a decent saw from factory !
A thing or 3 for you to mull over (if you wish) .....I have a 92 yr with the no de comp KS and 87 carb in stock form other than having some sympathetic muffler work. This saw without "any timing advance at all" can snap the cord back if you are not careful, bringing me to the conclusion that there is some advance in the coil already at start up anyhow. This may of corse be just the curve the coil gives to start . You may want to take this "posable" situation into the mix for the future.

 

[drf256]

I know I said I was gonna run it stock and I am except for this thick base gasket.

View attachment 119301

I made my own gasket out of material .028 thick and squish came in at .032. Nothing extreme, just a little shot in the arm. Going on past 2-series experience it should pump up to about 185psi, right where I like it. If you do the math you see why a delete isn’t an option, roughly only .004 squish without a gasket.

View attachment 119304

Is your saw not a head slapper with no gasket? The ones I’ve done generally have been.

What size solder are you using to check squish?

If you have the chance, chuck a 1/4” drive socket extension in your drill and put a socket the size of the flywheel nut on it. Find your place against the cylinder wall with the solder through the plug hole, and hold in place by bending over the fins outside and holding with your hand. Turn the motor over with the drill for 15-30 seconds. Recheck your squish and report back.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Yeah don't do this by arm pulling, ask me how I know!!!! Doc got me good on that one, think he is still laughing about it.

 

[drf256]

Yeah don't do this by arm pulling, ask me how I know!!!! Doc got me good on that one, think he is still laughing about it.

Trying to understand the 155 psi comp you keep getting with 23 squish and 28 off the band.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Not sure, soon as the weather breaks I will get some more time on it, but it puts a smile on my face every time I use it, that's all I know. Thinking the Cabers are just tougher to break in then OEM.

 

[dustinwilt68]

And timing was advanced a full key in mine and it starts easy, like a dream.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Is your saw not a head slapper with no gasket? The ones I’ve done generally have been.

What size solder are you using to check squish?

If you have the chance, chuck a 1/4” drive socket extension in your drill and put a socket the size of the flywheel nut on it. Find your place against the cylinder wall with the solder through the plug hole, and hold in place by bending over the fins outside and holding with your hand. Turn the motor over with the drill for 15-30 seconds. Recheck your squish and report back.

I will accomplish this check when I get home from work and report back.

I didn’t check squish without a base gasket, just assumed it was a head slapper and went right into making a thinner gasket. My solder is pretty fat; you thinking I got an in accurate squish measurement Doc? Since I’m pulling the cylinder to swap circlips I’ll also check squish by sticking 4 pieces of solder to the piston at the 360,090,180 & 280 positions on top of the piston.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Not sure, soon as the weather breaks I will get some more time on it, but it puts a smile on my face every time I use it, that's all I know. Thinking the Cabers are just tougher to break in then OEM.

My 254 pumped up to 180psi with a new caber ring and .035 squish. Pardon the dumb question but is your gauge taking a crap Dustin?

 

[trooney]

@drf256
I've got to do a comp test on mine soon. I know its pulling close to 200.

 

[trooney]

BTW- very nice thread!! I am awaiting the final product...I just luv the 262!!!I think next one I'm going to have to do is the 42/242.