It’s likely just the chrome layer on the outside of the tooth hanging on. It will flake off as soon as you begin cutting wood, and doesn’t hurt anything.
When you get proficient at it, you’ll be able to sharpen a chain on the saw faster than you can swap it for a new one. As a logger, I rarely swap chains - unless they hit hidden barbed wire, or a rock I didn’t see. I will usually touch-up the edge with a round file, free hand, about every 3 trees (felled, limbed, and topped). Sometimes they don’t need it, but just a couple strokes with the file will wake them back up and prevent them from becoming “dull”.Okay, I can definitely feel the bur with my nail, and some are pretty big, it was quite interesting to see the burr just grow in size and never actually fall off or come off the tooth leaving a fresh clean edge. I was able to go over the whole chain and I just lightly run the round file in the direction of the tooth on the opposite side of the grind and it takes the bur off. But this process takes some time. And I see all these videos of guys who are super efficient with this sharpening, and I am struggling to find any speed in sharpening at all. Maybe that’s normal.
Every time my chain has gotten a little dull, I have just thrown on a brand-new chain. So now I need to go through and sharpen all of my chains, because they have all been used at this point. None have hit dirt, so they all look great fortunately.
I agree with this. Youtoob University can be very helpful with technical things like learning sharpening skills.
What size file are you using?
I have been using a 3/16 or 4.8mm Stihl branded round file. But I finally figured out the technique. I bought a Husqvarna file kit today. It came with a guide and all that jazz, but the guide is completely useless for my Stihl branded chains since it’s a sharpening kit for Husqvarna X-Cut chains lol. But man, these Husky files are INSANELY GOOD! They are Husqvarna 3/16 Intensive cut round files. And they work so much better than my Stihl files. I’m not sure why they work so well. But these files allowed me to learn the technique today, and I can actually sharpen a chain quickly and correctly. Hardly any pressure is needed and these files cut super fast! I am hitting the entire tooth. And it is all SHARP and flat! I use my nail, and check to see I can roll the chain back with the tooth point biting in to my nail only. And it’s super sharp. And no frustration at all.
I finally got the technique down, I was jumping for joy about this honestly. Lots of frustration and pain has gone in to sharpening chains. Or trying to. I finally got it down with quick results. Husky Intensive cut 3/16 files are where it’s at. Going free hand only, I am following my angle on the tooth, and putting just a tiny bit of pressure back and upward keeping my file as straight as possible. These new files cut effortlessly with little to no pressure so it’s very easy to hold an angle and all of my teeth look perfectly flat on the edge. They are sharp. I filed the rakers down just a bit maybe 3 passes on each one with a flat file. Being able to make a pass on a tooth like 1-3 passes with good results, and then I move on to another tooth. Previously I was spending forever on just one tooth trying to get the correct grind across the whole tooth.
I love the handle you are using! I like that it has 30 degree on one side and 25 degree on the other so you can quickly see if you are straying from what you are after. I could never keep those in stock, I would tell everyone about them and they would sell quickly. I like Husky file too, I need to get some more soon!
That may be better than my golf ball handle.
The golf ball may work well too. I just like that the husky handle has degree markers on it so when you have the handle flush against the bar it will be either 30 or 25 degrees (depending on the side you are using). The design also holds the files in really well, but are super quick to either rotate the file or change it out.
I can appreciate that. Golf balls only give arc .
Yeah, look closely at the angles sides of the file, you should see the 30 on one side and the 25 on the other.
Few i know have found this regarding files, until something different is placed in there hands. This is good the fact you are trying different brands, not bias due to. Stihl files dont last nor cut as well, and i could never work out why they font address it but thats their call. May i throw this thought in the mix please, get a hold of some Vallorbes imo they are by far the best, then oregon, husky and whatever else must be used when these are not available. Credit to you wanting, trying, feeling, seeing, admitting the difference and moving with it regardless of brand, its like saws, ‘happy in the hand is a happy wood cutting man’ regardless of brand. Now your filing has changed for the better, enjoy that its a good feeling when a file cuts well, change it when it dontI have been using a 3/16 or 4.8mm Stihl branded round file. But I finally figured out the technique. I bought a Husqvarna file kit today. It came with a guide and all that jazz, but the guide is completely useless for my Stihl branded chains since it’s a sharpening kit for Husqvarna X-Cut chains lol. But man, these Husky files are INSANELY GOOD! They are Husqvarna 3/16 Intensive cut round files. And they work so much better than my Stihl files. I’m not sure why they work so well. But these files allowed me to learn the technique today, and I can actually sharpen a chain quickly and correctly. Hardly any pressure is needed and these files cut super fast! I am hitting the entire tooth. And it is all SHARP and flat! I use my nail, and check to see I can roll the chain back with the tooth point biting in to my nail only. And it’s super sharp. And no frustration at all.
I finally got the technique down, I was jumping for joy about this honestly. Lots of frustration and pain has gone in to sharpening chains. Or trying to. I finally got it down with quick results. Husky Intensive cut 3/16 files are where it’s at. Going free hand only, I am following my angle on the tooth, and putting just a tiny bit of pressure back and upward keeping my file as straight as possible. These new files cut effortlessly with little to no pressure so it’s very easy to hold an angle and all of my teeth look perfectly flat on the edge. They are sharp. I filed the rakers down just a bit maybe 3 passes on each one with a flat file. Being able to make a pass on a tooth like 1-3 passes with good results, and then I move on to another tooth. Previously I was spending forever on just one tooth trying to get the correct grind across the whole tooth.
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ps hand file only way to go for its easy to carry a single file
Glad you got the filing figured out! Is that 3/8 or .325 chain?I have been using a 3/16 or 4.8mm Stihl branded round file. But I finally figured out the technique. I bought a Husqvarna file kit today. It came with a guide and all that jazz, but the guide is completely useless for my Stihl branded chains since it’s a sharpening kit for Husqvarna X-Cut chains lol. But man, these Husky files are INSANELY GOOD! They are Husqvarna 3/16 Intensive cut round files. And they work so much better than my Stihl files. I’m not sure why they work so well. But these files allowed me to learn the technique today, and I can actually sharpen a chain quickly and correctly. Hardly any pressure is needed and these files cut super fast! I am hitting the entire tooth. And it is all SHARP and flat! I use my nail, and check to see I can roll the chain back with the tooth point biting in to my nail only. And it’s super sharp. And no frustration at all.
I finally got the technique down, I was jumping for joy about this honestly. Lots of frustration and pain has gone in to sharpening chains. Or trying to. I finally got it down with quick results. Husky Intensive cut 3/16 files are where it’s at. Going free hand only, I am following my angle on the tooth, and putting just a tiny bit of pressure back and upward keeping my file as straight as possible. These new files cut effortlessly with little to no pressure so it’s very easy to hold an angle and all of my teeth look perfectly flat on the edge. They are sharp. I filed the rakers down just a bit maybe 3 passes on each one with a flat file. Being able to make a pass on a tooth like 1-3 passes with good results, and then I move on to another tooth. Previously I was spending forever on just one tooth trying to get the correct grind across the whole tooth.
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Thanks! The handle is really good. The shafts changes are a lot easier than my Stihl handle.
Honestly, I’m definitely willing to test out another brand saw. My Stihl 261 is awesome, and it ain’t going anywhere, but I will be buying a 2nd saw at some point in time lol. So yeah, maybe a Husqvarna 365 X-Torque lol. Not a huge fan of their newer styled saws. But I do love the classic solid orange Husky 365/372/395 etc. Those looks so 1980’s era. I like it!Few i know have found this regarding files, until something different is placed in there hands. This is good the fact you are trying different brands, not bias due to. Stihl files dont last nor cut as well, and i could never work out why they font address it but thats their call. May i throw this thought in the mix please, get a hold of some Vallorbes imo they are by far the best, then oregon, husky and whatever else must be used when these are not available. Credit to you wanting, trying, feeling, seeing, admitting the difference and moving with it regardless of brand, its like saws, ‘happy in the hand is a happy wood cutting man’ regardless of brand. Now your filing has changed for the better, enjoy that its a good feeling when a file cuts well, change it when it dont
Yep, running a 325 chain. I thought about going 3/8, but at this point I have 5 chains all in 325 lol. It’s working good on the 261 though.
