First chainsaw!

[tps3443]

32/1 should not be causing blow by, but who knows. The newest saw I run is from 1993! You could try running 40/1 and see what it does. PS good work with the bar!

I’m wondering if it’s because I am running two oils. Since I added oil to Motomix and converted it to 32:1.

 

[tps3443]

Spooge can be a thing, especially in smart carb saws. It largely depends on oil, quality of fuel, and how hard you work the saw. Everyone here swears Red Armor spooges bad, but at 25:1 I’ve never had a wick of spooge out the muffler. I do run non e fuel with Techron though. Dominator doesn’t leave spooge at any ratio in any saw…

Well at least I know what it’s called now. I’ll see if it goes away. It’s a good bit of it. It slowly drips from the seams of the factory muffler when running.

 

[mrxlh]

The very first thing I would stop doing is using motomix. Stihl oil all 3 bottles grey, orange or white are some of the poorest quality for the money on the market. Echo Red Armor, Amsoil Dominator, Motul 2T800 are a far better choice.

 

[Loony661]

How many tanks of fuel have you burned through the saw at this point?

 

[tps3443]

The very first thing I would stop doing is using motomix. Stihl oil all 3 bottles grey, orange or white are some of the poorest quality for the money on the market. Echo Red Armor, Amsoil Dominator, Motul 2T800 are a far better choice.

I think it’s just too rich still as well.

I am running Honda HP2 2 cycle oil inside of MotoMix converted from 50:1 to 32:1 ratio. I don’t think It’s gonna get any better than HP2.

Also, one thing I have discovered after researching is while Stihl oil does indeed suck. MotoMix does not suck even though it has Stihl oil in it. I’m not sure why, something to do with how the Alkylate fuel works having no sulfur in it during the distilling process I guess. I’m not really sure. But it works very well.

 

[tps3443]

How many tanks of fuel have you burned through the saw at this point?

About maybe 3 and 1/2 tanks.

 

[Loony661]

About maybe 3 and 1/2 tanks.

Ok. It takes 5-10 full fuel tanks burned before the rings will be fully seated on a chainsaw. The hotter and longer you run that saw, the better the ring seal. If you baby it, it will take longer.

What I’m getting at is - the saw will “come alive” at that point. Now my opinion on the leaking your experiencing, is that you’re not working the saw hard enough, and getting it hot enough, to burn the oil from the muffler.

 

[tps3443]

Ok. It takes 5-10 full fuel tanks burned before the rings will be fully seated on a chainsaw. The hotter and longer you run that saw, the better the ring seal. If you baby it, it will take longer.

What I’m getting at is - the saw will “come alive” at that point. Now my opinion on the leaking your experiencing, is that you’re not working the saw hard enough, and getting it hot enough, to burn the oil from the muffler.

Thank you. That makes perfect sense. I was going a little easier on it while cutting to try and aid break-in. I’ll try running it harder and not worry about it.

 

[Loony661]

Thank you. That makes perfect sense. I was going a little easier on it while cutting to try and aid break-in. I’ll try running it harder and not worry about it.

It’s a common misconception that using an engine lightly at first is better for it than loading it. In reality, it takes load to seat the rings.

I would add, just let the saw idle for 30-60 seconds before use, to allow the engine a bit of a warm up. Once it’s warm, cut with it without holding back. It will perform a lot better in the long run.

 

[Al Smith]

Lots of hullabalo about oil mix and what kind of chain .Keep a good sharp chain and tuned correctly you won't have a problem with them .I've got 40 year old chainsaws that will hang with anything made today .I was launched in1948 and I'm stll kicking .Of course I'm not as fast as when I wore a younger man' clothes .Plus I can still bend over I don't need 28 inchs of bar to cut fire wood .Then again I don't cut every day .

 

[mrxlh]

Lots of hullabalo about oil mix and what kind of chain .Keep a good sharp chain and tuned correctly you won't have a problem with them .I've got 40 year old chainsaws that will hang with anything made today .I was launched in1948 and I'm stll kicking .Of course I'm not as fast as when I wore a younger man' clothes .Plus I can still bend over I don't need 28 inchs of bar to cut fire wood .Then again I don't cut every day .

Actually, the hullaballeaux on oil isn’t as far fetched as most forum members would like to think. Chains and chain sharpening on the other hand is a conversation for a different zip code. There is like 5 oils that wont screw a saw up no matter how incompetent the operator is. Chains and sharpening hoo boy…..

 

[tps3443]

Lots of hullabalo about oil mix and what kind of chain .Keep a good sharp chain and tuned correctly you won't have a problem with them .I've got 40 year old chainsaws that will hang with anything made today .I was launched in1948 and I'm stll kicking .Of course I'm not as fast as when I wore a younger man' clothes .Plus I can still bend over I don't need 28 inchs of bar to cut fire wood .Then again I don't cut every day .

I was using a brand new chain and 20” bar. When I ran the saw yesterday, the chain was a brand full chisel one that I had just put on it night before. I was mostly cutting smaller pine trees, and a few dead trees that are still barely standing. I keep the chain fairly loose. Not too loose. But only enough where it sags a little underneath in the center the bar and spins around easily. I am using some sort of Stihl bar oil in an orange bottle. Anyways, this saw runs like a beast.

 

[Sloughfoot]

How much does it smoke when warmed up? At 40:1 and thinner HP2 should be virtually smokeless.

 

[Al Smith]

A smokey saw can often be the type of oil pump or a leaky oil tank .On old McCulloch saws they used an impulse activated piston pump that would allow some bar oil to get into the crankcase .On a cold start you could fog for mosquitoes until it warmed up .On some like Stihl the case screws could be loose allowing oil in to the crankcase .Partner P-100's had a rotating crankshaft driven pump inside of the crankcase with a two piece shaft that used a tiny o-ring to seal off the two shafts and after extended usage it would fail and then smoke ..

 

[tps3443]

How much does it smoke when warmed up? At 40:1 and thinner HP2 should be virtually smokeless.

So using MotoMix the saw already did not smoke whatsoever at all. The stuff just burns super clean. After swapping to my own 32:1 MotoMix+HP2, and running it the first time yesterday, it was smoking a little bit, pretty rich. The low speed was very rich at least. So rich it would die every time or nearly almost die after hitting the gas and letting off.

I am thinking the splooge and oil from the muffler came from the initial warm-up and adjustment when I was tuning it the first time at 32:1. The low speed doesn’t stall anymore, but I really think I can lean it out even more. The low speed is only open half a turn lol. The 32:1 made the saw run completely different compared to the 50:1.

It’s running great though, I’m just gonna run it hard when I cut again.

 

[Loony661]

I keep the chain fairly loose. Not too loose. But only enough where it sags a little underneath in the center the bar and spins around easily.

Just an FYI, running the chain “loose” on a sprocket nose bar will wear the bar out prematurely. The chain should be snug, but not real tight. You shouldn’t be able to pull the drivers out of the bar entirely, when lifting up on the chain after you snug it down, and it should “snap” itself back in to place.

 

[Squareground3691]

Just an FYI, running the chain “loose” on a sprocket nose bar will wear the bar out prematurely. The chain should be snug, but not real tight. You shouldn’t be able to pull the drivers out of the bar entirely, when lifting up on the chain after you snug it down, and it should “snap” itself back in to place.

The effectiveness of the cutters , depends on it ,

 

[Stihlalltheway]

Just an FYI, running the chain “loose” on a sprocket nose bar will wear the bar out prematurely. The chain should be snug, but not real tight. You shouldn’t be able to pull the drivers out of the bar entirely, when lifting up on the chain after you snug it down, and it should “snap” itself back in to place.

Fully agree. Another thing people don’t think about is the other end of the bar, where the chain whips around the sprocket. The same thing happens at the sprocket end as the nose of the bar, meaning as the chain whips around it puts “downward” stress on the crank. Tighter chain minimizes that the same as it does the wear in the end of the bar. I’ve cut with a lot of guys who swear that a chain that’s so loose it hangs off the belly of the bar is better for the saw because it doesn’t have to work as hard to turn, maybe they’re right, in my mind the minimizing of the inertia with a tighter chain can cut down on the downward force the pto crank seal/bearing have to deal with and saves the nose of the bar a little, not to mention making the chain more “accurate” cleaning Dutchmans and such. One thing I’ll add is when the saw and chain are hot don’t crank them as hard as when they’re cold, that’s when the forward stress (In my mind) could become too much after it cools down and the parts all condense from their hot, expanded state. Hopefully that made sense

 

[whitesnake]

It’s a common misconception that using an engine lightly at first is better for it than loading it. In reality, it takes load to seat the rings.

I would add, just let the saw idle for 30-60 seconds before use, to allow the engine a bit of a warm up. Once it’s warm, cut with it without holding back. It will perform a lot better in the long run.

I’ll agree with that. Everyone has their own opinion. I’ve got at least 20 years of breaking in 2strokes under my belt. Sleds, motox bikes, atv’s, saws, etc. I break them in how I intend to run them.

 

[Loony661]

Fully agree. Another thing people don’t think about is the other end of the bar, where the chain whips around the sprocket. The same thing happens at the sprocket end as the nose of the bar, meaning as the chain whips around it puts “downward” stress on the crank. Tighter chain minimizes that the same as it does the wear in the end of the bar. I’ve cut with a lot of guys who swear that a chain that’s so loose it hangs off the belly of the bar is better for the saw because it doesn’t have to work as hard to turn, maybe they’re right, in my mind the minimizing of the inertia with a tighter chain can cut down on the downward force the pto crank seal/bearing have to deal with and saves the nose of the bar a little, not to mention making the chain more “accurate” cleaning Dutchmans and such. One thing I’ll add is when the saw and chain are hot don’t crank them as hard as when they’re cold, that’s when the forward stress (In my mind) could become too much after it cools down and the parts all condense from their hot, expanded state. Hopefully that made sense

Perfect sense. Thanks for expanding on my initial reply.