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What to expect from a ported saw?

TreeLife

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From the time I was 18 until 2 years ago I cut trees in either a residential removal or logging/timber harvesting capacity. The things I expected out of a ported saw weren't just improvements in power, but a saw that was friendly to start and was good on fuel. I've had ported saws that were very strong but used a lot of fuel, and vice versa.

I guess what I'm saying is...not every ported saw is created equally. The porters of good repute have that reputation for a reason. When I pay for a saw to be ported, I expect it's overall demeanor to be improved. Torque, ease of effective starting, chain speed, comparable fuel economy.

My ported 572 will run longer on a tank of fuel than a friend's mildly modded ms462 (of which I'm very fond, im not knocking anything) it starts in 3 pulls nearly every time unless there is a radical change of temperature since it's last run.

My 281 is thirsty, not lovely to start, and requires my attention with a screw driver more vigilantly than with other machines.
 
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isaaccarlson

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I agree. How the saw behaves is important to me. My 350 is very good on fuel, even though it pulls very hard. I check the tank when I figure it's getting low and it's still half full. I would love it if my 372 turned out the same way.
 

MemphisMechanic

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Why do y’all plug the decomp?

They leak. Spray yours down with soapy water and cold start the saw, might be surprised what you see.

Certain models are also fond of dropping metal decomp parts into the running motor if they fail.

It’s not like it’s hard to drop-start a 72cc saw with 180-200 psi compression, so it isn’t really necessary.

(If you’re 70 years old or have a bad shoulder, I do respect you disagreeing with me on this one.)
 

isaaccarlson

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They leak. Spray yours down with soapy water and cold start the saw, might be surprised what you see.

Certain models are also fond of dropping metal decomp parts into the running motor if they fail.

Which models?

Also still waiting on those "good" numbers
 

Duce

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They leak. Spray yours down with soapy water and cold start the saw, might be surprised what you see.

Certain models are also fond of dropping metal decomp parts into the running motor if they fail.

It’s not like it’s hard to drop-start a 72cc saw with 180-200 psi compression, so it isn’t really necessary.

(If you’re 70 years old or have a bad shoulder, I do respect you disagreeing with me on this one.)
Believe, what they are saying is drop starting is hard on rewind parts. Have done many vacuum tests with decomp in place with no leaking, one would think if it leaks, it should leak with vacuum. Not trying to piss on anyone's Wheeties, just stating what I have seen.
 

isaaccarlson

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I don't always use the decomp, but I sure am grateful for it when I do use it. Trying to start a saw in below zero weather with 180 psi is near impossible without it.
 

jakethesnake

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That can be done. You can always shoot one into the chamber if it doesn’t have the boss on the side.
Yeah this is the k cylinder. Might be worth a consideration down the road. Just a nasty *b-word to start
 

Nutball

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Certain models are also fond of dropping metal decomp parts into the running motor if they fail.
So, why did Husqy go the way of Stihl by putting their decomp buttons on top? I liked them on the side. No risk of it dropping in, and the hole gets covered near the top of the stroke, so you get a little compression pop, which in my opinion makes starting a lot easier. I don't like the blow/suck feel of the top decomp engines. Maybe that's just due to oversized holes in the valve.
 
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