What to expect from a ported saw?

[Woodslasher]

Yep. Not always about the timer.

True, but a 2163 of yours ran neck and neck with a grunt ported XPW in a 36" fir log, and in 20" wood it did 3 cuts to the XPW's 1 1/2. The W had a 32" and the 63 had a 28" in case you were wondering, but both saws had to cut the entire 36" cookie off the log. I thought a 62cc saw would be a slacker next to a 75cc one, but I can honestly say that for the bar it was running I didn't miss those extra 13cc's one bit. In fact, I'm starting to think my 390 could benefit from a little sausage stuffing at some point.

 

[isaaccarlson]

Different people port saws differently. Some like to hog everything out, some like to fix timing and nothing else, some like gobs of compression, some like high exhaust and high rpm, some like low exhaust heavy pullers.

I have seen some ported saws that absolutely run, and will spank much bigger saws. I have also seen ported saws that will barely keep up with their stock counterparts. You can make any saw turn crazy rpm in the cut just by having higher depth gauges, and I think we have all seen it when a saw is revving to the moon and the builder is claiming xx,xxx in the wood, but it isn't moving any wood. Heck, a dull chain on a stock saw can pull that off...

I believe that a well ported saw should perform in a class 10-20cc, bigger than it is. If it won't do that, then why port it? I have seen 40-50% gains on some saws, while the common range is 30-40%. The reason we port saws is not to make them louder and sound cool. It's to have a lighter saw with the power of a bigger one. I LOVE being able to grab my ported 350 and have a light saw that performs like a much bigger saw. It's perfect for at least 90% of what I do, and that's saying something, because I have a ported 65cc clamshell saw (strong runner), and the 350 is right there with it. It took a lot of grinding and jb weld to get it there, but it has become my go-to saw.

Porting is not about hogging out ports, making pop-ups, or building race saws. It's about making the engine more efficient so it CAN make more power. A saw can't make good power unless everything works together. Everything has to be tuned to everything else. You can't expect amazing power from poor porting work, so learn all you can and research your builder carefully if having it done by someone else, and even run some saws they have ported.

 

[MustangMike]

It also depends a lot on the saw, some have a lot more potential to improve than others.

But all of them can be improved, at least a little.

 

[redneckhillbilly]

Is it best to buy a brand new power head and have it ported?

 

[Stump Shot]

Is it best to buy a brand new power head and have it ported?

For any kind of Pro type end user, yes, a new power head is usually best in most cases with the best chance of reliability and longevity for the end user, even a serious firewood cutter may consider this. In other words you can hit the woods running good with a fresh saw that's all new ready to cut all day and not likely to encounter a problem for anytime soon.

Not that a used saw can't be ported, it certainly can, but, expect some repairs(extra cost) to come along with to get your saw up to snuff here, there or everywhere depending on your example, so your porting investment pays off and doesn't go up in smoke due to a worn out part.

 

[Duce]

That's exactly why my ported 372 got ugly plastic, all new oem crank, bearings, carb,clutch, oem ported top end. Runs great, looks like crap, so it's unassuming and I spent way too much money building an ugly azz saw. Cracked and glued top cover. JB weld on started. Top handle is 572 drilled and bent to fit. It's beautiful!

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

That's exactly why my ported 372 got ugly plastic, all new oem crank, bearings, carb,clutch, oem ported top end. Runs great, looks like crap, so it's unassuming and I spent way too much money building an ugly azz saw.

A.K.A. a true SLEEPER!

 

[whitesnake]

That's exactly why my ported 372 got ugly plastic, all new oem crank, bearings, carb,clutch, oem ported top end. Runs great, looks like crap, so it's unassuming and I spent way too much money building an ugly azz saw.

A rat rod! It’s all the rage these days!

 

[isaaccarlson]

Especially with saw theft on the rise. There was a rash of saw theft over the summer and into fall. Not sure if it's still going on. I heard about several wood cutters who had their whole saw collections stolen. Theivin' makes me sick, and it's one of the worst offences, in my book.

I thought about having a "dirty sleeper", but I like clean tools. Maybe I can paint some rust on em or somethin....

 

[davidwyby]

@Duce thats how most of my huskies are. Ugly with XS inside.
@isaaccarlson I agree, lighter saw for same work as bigger saw, or same smaller work (log dia) but faster!

 

[isaaccarlson]

Oh yeah, so fast.... I used a 65cc saw for everything because that's all I had, but once I got the 350 everything changed. Now I have a 372 that I'm not even sure I need and kind of regret buying, and I've only had it a couple weeks. I think I'll port it and see how I like it, but I still don't NEED it. I just bought it because, well, I'm not really sure why. I had heard a lot of good about them and one popped up locally that wasn't beat to hell. I saw it and the price seemed ok, so I bought it.

 

[davidwyby]

Oh yeah, so fast.... I used a 65cc saw for everything because that's all I had, but once I got the 350 everything changed. Now I have a 372 that I'm not even sure I need and kind of regret buying, and I've only had it a couple weeks. I think I'll port it and see how I like it, but I still don't NEED it. I just bought it because, well, I'm not really sure why. I had heard a lot of good about them and one popped up locally that wasn't beat to hell. I saw it and the price seemed ok, so I bought it.

I deal with trees up to a few feet in diameter, good excuse for lots of different size saws

 

[isaaccarlson]

I deal with trees up to a few feet in diameter, good excuse for lots of different size saws

I do too, but it's hard for me to mentally justify it to myself when the saw isn't ported and I already have a ported 65cc that gets the job done. I'll probably feel different after the 372 is ported, but in the meantime it's nagging at me. It runs real good, and I'm using it so it doesn't just sit like it did when the previous owner had it. He bought it for a few trees and then put it away. The only thing wrong with it is a few weld spatters on the foot pad under the handle because his son welded next to the bench. Otherwise it's mint.

 

[davidwyby]

I do too, but it's hard for me to mentally justify it to myself when the saw isn't ported and I already have a ported 65cc that gets the job done. I'll probably feel different after the 372 is ported, but in the meantime it's nagging at me. It runs real good, and I'm using it so it doesn't just sit like it did when the previous owner had it. He bought it for a few trees and then put it away. The only thing wrong with it is a few weld spatters on the foot pad under the handle because his son welded next to the bench. Otherwise it's mint.

4’ trees with 28” 65cc?

I should say I’m cutting a lot of big dry hard Euc into firewood…

 

[MustangMike]

My excuse for lots of large saws ... milling!

 

[pbillyi69]

i would say you can expect a smile on your face with a ported saw that has been done correctly. like others have said more power out of the same size package. most saw performance comes from a good sharp chain. every saw in the world ported or otherwise is only as good as the chain is sharp.

 

[isaaccarlson]

4’ trees with 28” 65cc?

I should say I’m cutting a lot of big dry hard Euc into firewood…

We don't have Euc here, but I have cut 67" maple with my ported 65cc and a 28" bar. Takes a little doing, but it can definitely be done. Most of the wood I deal with is 3' and under, and most of that is under 2'.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

I do too, but it's hard for me to mentally justify it to myself when the saw isn't ported and I already have a ported 65cc that gets the job done. I'll probably feel different after the 372 is ported, but in the meantime it's nagging at me. It runs real good, and I'm using it so it doesn't just sit like it did when the previous owner had it. He bought it for a few trees and then put it away. The only thing wrong with it is a few weld spatters on the foot pad under the handle because his son welded next to the bench. Otherwise it's mint.

You’re going on and on about a ported homeowner class Stihl that only shows marginal gains from port work. (There’s only so much you can do to a clamshell saw.)

Once you do that 372, you’ll really see the light. I’ve done my 372XP as well as my friend’s MS391. Have run both.

Be assertive in cutting the intake and exhaust to good numbers, delete the base gasket, open up the muffler, advance the timing, and plug the decomp. You’ll fall in absolute love with the 372.

 

[isaaccarlson]

You’re going on and on about a ported homeowner class Stihl that only shows marginal gains from port work. (There’s only so much you can do to a clamshell saw.)

Once you do that 372, you’ll really see the light. I’ve done my 372XP as well as my friend’s MS391. Have run both.

Be assertive in cutting the intake and exhaust to good numbers, delete the base gasket, open up the muffler, advance the timing, and plug the decomp. You’ll fall in absolute love with the 372.

My stihl woke up quite a bit, but not nearly as much as my 350. I have seen ported 372's that run real strong, and I am hoping for that in mine. I have a lathe and can cut the base and squish band.

Here are my thoughts so far.... Cut base and squish to raise compression to at least 180 psi. Widen exhaust, widen transfers toward intake (careful of the ring ends, unless I get a single ring piston), set port timing.

When you say "good numbers", do you have in mind?

I like a zippy saw that revs up and pulls hard.

 

[farminkarman]

My stihl woke up quite a bit, but not nearly as much as my 350. I have seen ported 372's that run real strong, and I am hoping for that in mine. I have a lathe and can cut the base and squish band.

Here are my thoughts so far.... Cut base and squish to raise compression to at least 180 psi. Widen exhaust, widen transfers toward intake (careful of the ring ends, unless I get a single ring piston), set port timing.

When you say "good numbers", do you have in mind?

I like a zippy saw that revs up and pulls hard.

Is your 372 an oe or xt version?