MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[heimannm]

Yes, this particular saw is a 1225.



Mark

 

[Sloa]

placed a short video on media of my s797 behaving almost proper. So pleased. I will dial it in when new carb kit arrives, still have a small leak. The flat back carb that was originally on it when I got saw has a new carb kit but needle seat must have dissolved as it was there last fall. Utilizing a tillotson hl 63 . Press picture.

 

[Sloa]

this is saw with flat back carburetor, ran nice on idol. https://opeforum.com/media/att-59f45772-1067-49e8-acf5-c76830e2bea5-transcode-mp4.42/

 

[Sloughfoot]

Got the Pro Mac 10-10 project home yesterday. Feels like it has good compression and it does make sparks. My back is telling me not to mess with it just now. Going to have a parts list later week for anyone selling. So far it's clutch cover/housing brake, fuel cap, flywheel/starter screen, chain tensioner, air filter..........

Also like to hear what bar length you all think is juuuust right on these saws.

 

[heimannm]

I prefer a 16" on the 10-10 models, maybe 18" on a PM55 or 10-10S version. I have everything you need except the clutch cover/brake assembly and I may have a decent used one of those; I will try to remember and look next time I'm up in the attic.

More progress on the 1225 yesterday, engine is fully assembled and we have a good strong spark. I ended up swapping the shroud from a 5-49 in the attic as the one that was on the saw was badly bent up. This one actually has some paint left on it. You really must assemble these in the correct sequence and be careful with all of the "captive" nuts behind the screws. Many of the nuts are no longer captive and like to fall out before you can get the screws installed. I did use some glue on a few, including the bolts for the recoil starter. The shroud goes on first, then fuel tank, then flywheel housing, then the starter pawls & screen, then the starter itself. Not. perhaps. the best planning on the part of the engineering team at McCulloch in the late 1940's.









Mark

 

[heimannm]

Getting the carburetor in and out requires some fiddling, but is doable. Someone before me had replaced the original braided fuel line with a piece of hose and barb fittings. Easier to find a suitable piece of fuel hose, but a little more tricky getting everything assembled and in position. The braided fuel lines use a hollow screw and block fitting at the carburetor so you can disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor easily enough.



I still need to relocate the plate from one of the diaphragms to a new diaphragm from Jeff Fox. I think now that I have seen the different saws, the 1225 and 5-49 use the 18199 diaphragm/gasket set and the 7-55 and 99 use 24945. The primer on the 1225 and 5-49 is also different from the one used on the 7-55 and 99. Good old McCulloch keeps you on your toes.



I also know now that I will have to use the handle bar from the 1225 as there were enough changes between the 1225 and 5-49 that the later handle bar will not work on the 1225 saws.

Last activity yesterday was cutting the flange off both mufflers and attempting to weld it back on one of the two. The flange on the better muffler body one was broken, and since it was brazed on initially I didn't feel as though I could get enough of the brass off to try and weld the flange back together.





The flange is now stuck on the better muffler body, I will have to see if my yellow torch tank can generate enough heat to allow me to braze the long seams joining the relatively thick flange to the very thin muffler body.



Mark

 

[Sloughfoot]

I prefer a 16" on the 10-10 models, maybe 18" on a PM55 or 10-10S version. I have everything you need except the clutch cover/brake assembly and I may have a decent used one of those; I will try to remember and look next time I'm up in the attic.

My feeling was a 16 is the better bar for it. I can do without brake assembly but would definitely like to have it. Bar, clutch cover (preferably ProMac and yellow with chain tensioner) and a fuel cap are what I'm after most.

 

[hacskaroly]

I can do without brake assembly but would definitely like to have it.

Real men run 10-10s that didn't come with a chain brake...that is what hard hats are for!!

Glad the saw showed up, they are a lot of fun to work on. I will have to find the air filter I got, since it won't fit on my saws and send it.

 

[Jusgunn3]

Well found out what I thought was a 797 is actually a 740 today…

 

[Bigmac]

Well found out what I thought was a 797 is actually a 740 today…

That’s a bummer! Hopefully you didn’t pay 797 prices for it

 

[Jusgunn3]

It’s a bummer for sure but I didnt loose out to bad. Traded some stuff I didn't need but still bummed haha

 

[heimannm]

Get the 740 going and you won't be quite so disappointed. 99cc saw will also pull pretty hard.





Mark

 

[Sloughfoot]

Real men run 10-10s that didn't come with a chain brake...that is what hard hats are for!!

Glad the saw showed up, they are a lot of fun to work on. I wilr filter I got, since it won't fit on my saws and send it.

Maaaan, only reason I wear a hard hat is because my only ear pro is hanging off the back of it!

 

[Sloughfoot]

The 10-10 started first attempt with a prime yesterday, but didn't repeat. Spark comes and goes. Compression is 130. Squish is .050.
Is 130 reasonable on these?

 

[hacskaroly]

Spark comes and goes.

Is the coil contacts clean and rust free? Does the flywheel have rust/dirt on its surface? I would double check the wiring to make sure there aren't any shorts against the case or a loose wire somewhere. Carb gaskets look good, not crunchy or dirty inside?

The recoil looks like it needs to be cleaned out and then it should suck the pull cord all the way back in.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Is the coil contacts clean and rust free? Does the flywheel have rust/dirt on its surface? I would double check the wiring to make sure there aren't any shorts against the case or a loose wire somewhere. Carb gaskets look good, not crunchy or dirty inside?

The recoil looks like it needs to be cleaned out and then it should suck the pull cord all the way back in.

I haven't turned one bolt on it yet. Figured I'd start with the switch and move down from there and check all those usual suspects you mentioned.

 

[hacskaroly]

I haven't turned one bolt on it yet. Figured I'd start with the switch and move down from there and check all those usual suspects you mentioned.

I would not have been that patient...I would have had the saw apart and spread across my workbench withing 10 minutes of it arriving...lol

 

[Sloughfoot]

I would not have been that patient...I would have had the saw apart and spread across my workbench withing 10 minutes of it arriving...lol

Oh, don't think that ain't what I want to do. I'm trying real hard to have a little self control with this one. For a change I want to see how little I can do to get it running, then rebuild it from the ground up. I've got one saw pulled apart, don't have space for another.

 

[hacskaroly]

I've got one saw pulled apart, don't have space for another.

I have four of my own saws pulled apart and 6 that belong to others. Dollar store baskets are very handy to help keep things separate and organized!!

 

[Sloughfoot]

I have four of my own saws pulled apart and 6 that belong to others. Dollar store baskets are very handy to help keep things separate and organized!!

Organization of any way, shape or form is not in my DNA.