MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[T.Roller]

@Homelite410

Thank you

 

[T.Roller]

Those in the pic I made on my lathe .Kevin,Cut -for-fun made some from square nuts using a file and they worked just dandy .

Baileys at one time sold them for using Stihl bars on Huqvarnas but since I no longer patronize them I have no idea if they still carry these items .

I have a couple from them.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Also a common solution....

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[Al Smith]

A thought occured to me just now,a light bulb went off .I wonder if a little piece of hydraulic tubing would suffice for a spacer .

When I get a chance I'll take a walk about at work with a 3/8" fine thread bolt to check ID and a set of micrometers to check OD and see what I can find .---this could be
'uge .--alas the junk yard dawg just keeps rearing it's ugly head ---

 

[Matt D]

Hey guys newbie here, I just picked up a couple vintage saws off Craigslist to tinker with and run here and there. One is a McCulloch 10-10 Automatic and the other is a Homelite Super E-Z Auto. Both saws run but could use some TLC. I've already cleaned up the 10-10A and installed a carb kit on it. I'm hoping you guys can help me locate some parts for it. It badly needs a new air filter as the one on it is literally falling apart. It's the 91456 filter which I understand is one of the harder ones to get(seems to be my luck) also when I took the bar off the saw I noticed it doesn't have any bar plates. According to the IPL I found for the saw it takes bar plate #64325 it appears the saw was being run without the bar plates before I became the owner, is there any harm in running a saw without the bar plates? I love how durable and strong of a runner this 10-10A is but it's been a challenge trying to source these parts. Thanks for any assistance you can offer.

-Matt

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

Better pictures of the 610 pro mac.

 

[Al Smith]

MattD ,Those filters are not that easy to find and they get a pretty penny for them even used .Scott at chainsawr lists one for about 25 bucks .Obviously you can run them without bar plates ,those are where you find them .Might be e-bay or from a dead one in the pile of dead saws that most dealers have .Scott may have a set or two ,give him a call or drop an e-mail because he has tons of stuff he doesn't get listed on his site .He will find them and drop you a line when he does .

 

[Matt D]

Ok

MattD ,Those filters are not that easy to find and they get a pretty penny for them even used .Scott at chainsawr lists one for about 25 bucks .Obviously you can run them without bar plates ,those are where you find them .Might be e-bay or from a dead one in the pile of dead saws that most dealers have .Scott may have a set or two ,give him a call or drop an e-mail because he has tons of stuff he doesn't get listed on his site .He will find them and drop you a line when he does .

Al, Thanks for the reply, I did find the one on chainsawr for $25, I will drop him a line and see if he has bar plates as well so I can get both items from the same person.

Thanks!

 

[Al Smith]

Good luck but here's how that goes .If you keep at it long enough people will find out about it and before you know it you will be up to your hip pockets in old saws ,freebies .Then you have all kinds of parts but you forget where they are at . .You find new parts then you find the old parts or you loose both and are right back to square one again .Life for a junk yard dawg is not that easy .

 

[heimannm]

On the 10 Series bar plates, they are the same as the outside plate used in 600 series saws.

Mark

 

[Matt D]

On the 10 Series bar plates, they are the same as the outside plate used in 600 series saws.

Mark

So if I'm understanding correctly an outside bar plate from a 600 series saw will fit the 10-10 on the inside and outside?

 

[astnmacgto]

A thought occured to me just now,a light bulb went off .I wonder if a little piece of hydraulic tubing would suffice for a spacer .

When I get a chance I'll take a walk about at work with a 3/8" fine thread bolt to check ID and a set of micrometers to check OD and see what I can find .---this could be
'uge .--alas the junk yard dawg just keeps rearing it's ugly head ---

I have used the nicopp brake line to make spacers for a few different saws, I use that because it forms around the stud and stays tight.

 

[Gizzard]

So if I'm understanding correctly an outside bar plate from a 600 series saw will fit the 10-10 on the inside and outside?

You got it. The inside and outside bar plates are same on 10-10 and they are a match with the outside bar plate on pm610 or saws of 600 series.

 

[Matt D]

I appreciate the help guys, here's a pic of my Mac 10-10 Auto because who doesn't like pics.



I do have another question though, this saw has a spur sprocket on it and has some decent groves in it, what does it take to convert this into a rim sprocket setup? It appears these came with both styles so I assume to convert it over I just have to find the necessary components and swap them?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You just need to replace the spur drive clutch drum with a splined rim drive drum that uses a floating rim sprocket of suitable pitch for the chain you use. 'Bout $20.

 

[e.fisher26]

The Oregon site has the book to show if it's available for that saw


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

http://www.mymowerparts.com/partslist/1053/1125.php (bottom of page)

Also Google Oregon 68209x for more sources.

 

[Al Smith]

A thought occurred to me just now,a light bulb went off .I wonder if a little piece of hydraulic tubing would suffice for a spacer .

When I get a chance I'll take a walk about at work with a 3/8" fine thread bolt to check ID and a set of micrometers to check OD and see what I can find .---this could be
'uge .--alas the junk yard dawg just keeps rearing it's ugly head ---

Okay sports fans here ya go .Metric tubing R 12-9-1.5 --translation 12 mm od 9 mm ID 1.5 mm wall thickness .The Bar slot on this size Stihl mount is 12.3 MM and 12 is a good snug fit .

The 9 mm ID either needs reamed out about 20 thou or threaded with a spiral point 3/8" 24 tap and screwed down on the stud .The later probably wouldn't work because most bar studs on a saw that old have some damage to the threads near where the bar rides.It wouldn't take much to hog out the hole with a Dremel and a stone or a round file if that's all you have --another friendly tip from the cornfields of northern Ohio .

 

[WOODS]

Haven't been on the forum in a long time, but the posts regarding the use of Stihl bars could not have been more timely for me as I was considering asking on AS whether anyone had any experience with Stihl bars on MACs. Back in 2013 I made some simple spacers from SS scrap so I could put a 25" .404 on one of my PM800s for dirty firewood duty. Never got to try it as the fresh rebuilt saw seized upon start up (still on the to do list). Fast forward to the present - NOS 24" MAC bars are almost impossible to find now and the other lengths has gone up so I was considering converting a few 25" .375 Stihl bars as well. But I wanted to know if there were any shortcoming before I did. Taking the prior posts as a statement of no problems I guess I will be drilling some more holes. If my assumption is wrong, please post. Thanks, Ron

Not very pretty and rather crude hand work but it fits the studs snug (requires a screwdriver to pry them off) and, of course, it fits the bar. Made two. I also drilled the center hole because my plate had one - not sure it serves any purpose on a ten series.



Pre-seizure photo:

 

[WOODS]

Related question: Given my one piece design and the snug fit, will I have heat expansion problems of tank versus adapter? Ron