MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[PogoInTheWoods]

That's just wrong! LOL

 

[WOODS]

Nothing a little paint can't fix. Ron

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I hear ya. And the stencils are out there, too.

 

[Al Smith]

Regarding bar fits on 10 series Macs,some Husqvarna mounts will fit and some will not.

I had made mention in the past the fact on say a PM 1000 which is Partner in McCulloch clothing will take Mac bars with the Mac plates and Husqvarna bars with 21oo Husky plates .Now I kind of wonder if that would hold true were one to use some type of bar plate in conjunction with Husky mount bars .I've never needed to myself because I have plenty of Mac bars .If anything I'm short of Husqvarna bars because I don't own many Husqvarna saws .

If anything ,thinking out loud I would speculate perhaps the bar stud spacing would be off comparing a 10 series and say a 181/281/372 saw .If that is the case perhaps a little time with a die grinder and a stone would correct that problem . Another experiment for a later date perhaps .

 

[e.fisher26]

Are they large husky mounts? Like a d176 mount? My pm610 bar will fit my poulan 3400/3800 and larger size huskys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve]

A small mount husky (k095) will fit a 10 series if you cut the adjuster hole into the bar slot so it can be oiled. The tail of the bar is narrow compaired to a d176 mount. The large mount husky won't work on a 10 series because of the 9mm bar groove.

A d007 mount will work great on a large frame mac if you cut the bar slot into the adjuster hole so it will oil. I use a Dremel with a large cutting disk in the bar groove ton cut the slot into the hole.

 

[Al Smith]

Mac 10 series studs 5/16" = .3125=7.9375 mm . On the other hand large mount Mac,3/8" studs =.3750= 9.5250 mm

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

So I'm back to my PM8200 piston issue. First, somewhere along the line while searching PM8200 piston stuff I ran across a pic that could have been my piston with the same black smudging and similar wear marks. Sorta reinforces my theory about the sealant itself being the possible culprit causing the abrasion and wear patterns. And the saw I have hadn't been apart before I took it apart which leads me to believe the same thing may have happened to many of these saws simply due to a major issue with the sealant or the application of the sealant during assembly. So anyway...

If you can find some lapping paper like used to micro finish crankshaft journals and sand out the high spots on that piston it might work .Start out with 40 micron paper using kerosene then 20 micron to finish it

I'm going to take a stab at salvaging the piston since I don't have much to lose but my time if it doesn't work out. That said, I also don't want to get carried away and trash what could possibly be a recoverable piston by going at it the wrong way. The finest paper I've found so far (at my local mom and pop hardware) is 1500 grit. How does that compare to the lapping paper?

It also seems like the right type of solvent may go a long way in loosening up what seems to be impregnated seal residue on the piston..., which would then leave me with just the aluminum to worry about. I obviously want to stay away from the Purple Power and Simple Green type solvents, but was wondering what else may loosen up the smeared stuff without etching the piston. Acetone? Lacquer thinner? Diesel? Kerosene? Berryman's?

And btw, the circlips holding that wristpin sure don't seem like they were ever supposed to come out to replace the piston..., probably because they knew in advance there weren't gonna be any pistons available anyway! Not even the slightest little notch in the pin boss to sneak a pic under to pop em loose, which could pose a whole new problem if one gets jettisoned into orbit. Sheesh.

On a slightly different note, is this piston so unusual that another 52mm piston couldn't be made to fit the application, or maybe drop right in due to the many windowed variations out there that use a 12mm wrist pin? Wonder if anyone has looked into that to any real extent...

TIA for any input or enlightenment anyone may care to offer.

 

[Steve]

I use Berryman dip to soften all the deposits on my mac pistons and cylinders. After I soak it overnight I dip some red scotchbrite in the Berrymans and scrub it clean.

 

[Al Smith]

Lapping paper is measured in micron size .The finest I've ever seen is 5 micron .I've got access to 20 micron .If I can find a little roll I'll send you some .I'm not sure what I have at the house but I know where a lot of it is at work .I'll send you a PM when I find some .

 

[Al Smith]

McCulloch I think might have had some quality problems towards the end .For example the 805 I have had scaled chrome .It had the original unfiled chain on it when I got it .If the 8200 had a screwed up sealant it goes right along with that .This kind of makes sense if you follow the company history because when both these models were made R P Mcculloch was no longer leading the company and the board of directors were going in the wrong direction .Before it was over they had choked the goose that laid the golden egg and Mcculloch Motors just became a name in a history book .

 

[fossil]

A small mount husky (k095) will fit a 10 series if you cut the adjuster hole into the bar slot so it can be oiled. The tail of the bar is narrow compaired to a d176 mount. The large mount husky won't work on a 10 series because of the 9mm bar groove.

A d007 mount will work great on a large frame mac if you cut the bar slot into the adjuster hole so it will oil. I use a Dremel with a large cutting disk in the bar groove ton cut the slot into the hole.

Mac 10 series studs 5/16" = .3125=7.9375 mm . On the other hand large mount Mac,3/8" studs =.3750= 9.5250 mm

Easily fixed as far as the stud slots go with an "S" clip or a 3/8" extension spring. Nip of 3 or 4 coils and slide that over the bar studs.
I return the tag end of the spring a bit so they don't fall off when removing the bar.

 

[heimannm]

Like this?





Mark

 

[Steve]

Like this?

View attachment 63988

View attachment 63989

Mark

Yes!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

See post #1043...

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Posting here and on AS since my PM8200 saga has been ongoing in both places.

I'm about to put it back together with the original piston. Not much choice. Soaked it in Berryman's Dip for two days hoping to loosen up the impregnated gunk and that worked well. Since there wasn't actually any transfer damage (just abrasive damage) it was a matter of knocking down high spots and smoothing without getting overly aggressive and removing too much material. A kind member here sent me some various sized rolls of lapping paper measured in micron grit for the smoothing. I wet sanded with kerosene using the 20 grit (finest of the lot) and it slowly began to come around. Needed some very delicate filing at the top ring land and edge of the crown but everything else was done with the super fine lapping paper. (Thanks, Al.)

Biggest issue of the whole process was getting the piston off the rod. As most know, this saw used Mac's later three piece crank design with circlip captive wrist pin for the small end. And when I say captive, I mean captive. No ears on the circlips and no notch in the pin boss to pop them out. After several attempts at getting under the ends of the clips using pics without success I went ahead and notched the bosses. Didn't want to damage the clips since I figured I'd need to re-use them. Made it easy. Getting the wrist pin out was a whole other story. Seems as though it was pressed in and didn't even need the clips. Had to heat up the bosses pretty good and still use my arbor press to get it out. Will definitely need to chill the pin and heat the piston to get it back in.

Anyway, the pics...

The damage.

The likely cause.

Before / After

Still enough in the way of machine marks to keep me from worrying tto much about excessive slap though the exhaust side is a little more suspect. We'll see.

I may also flatten the crown a hair to get the edge back. Got slightly rounded over working the top ring land area. Not sure if it makes any difference either way at this point.

So there ya have it. I'm convinced the lousy sealing job and possibly the type of sealant(s) caused the piston damage..., almost like two types of sealants were used. One was more of a silicone type and the other more like a varnish or shellac. This last pic is of another PM8200 with a damaged piston. Looks all too familiar and I'll bet more failures occurred than didn't with these saws due to atrociously sloppy short block assembly and the weird sealant combination. BTW, my cylinder will clean up like new. At least they had the plating right.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

And a follow up...

After some Berryman's Dip and a little brushing the combustion chamber cleaned up nicely. I didn't soak the whole cylinder for fear of the Berryman's eating the impulse barb seal. The streaking is from the sealant and should clean right up anyway, though. Some on the intake side as well.

And the notch in the pin boss...

 

[Steve]

Pics not working for me.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

They're linked to my post over on AS. I just copied and pasted the post and the links followed. I'd embed them here but OPE only allows 5 files per post. Sorta restrictive and inconvenient...

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Are you on a phone or a computer?