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The Husky 42/42 special/242/246 thread

Tor R

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Mines a 92 with starter cover decal. But to my question, how can you tell that it's a Special? The jug? It's just like if you had a 261 without the tag and put a 262 starter cover on it. You would have no way of knowing just looking at it.
I don't think they had a difference in the cylinders, at least there are no different part numbers to show that.

But, now we have someone with a 42 special from 1990, maybe he can see if he sees any difference from a 42 to a 42 special?
 

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Maybe it's different in the cylinder ports or piston?
 

trooney

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Maybe it's different in the cylinder ports or piston?
I think they ran the same 42 piston in the 42 and special but when it comes to that I could be wrong. And the 42 and 42 special both were open port but maybe have a bigger port on a special?
 

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Port size or timing changed?Magnus might know something more
 

Tor R

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how do ya come up with 1990?? what numbers tell ya that?
Up until 1986 the number plate was silver.
To continue with the same system, they had s/n plate black, the first number stood for the year, in this case 1990 was the first number 0, 1987 would start with 7, etc.

In 1997 they would have problems with the numbering again, and everything was written 1997 and the serial number continued with 7 as before.
1998 with 8.

In 1999 they switched to writing 99 - week - prod number.
 

Ranger Dave

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Up until 1986 the number plate was silver.
To continue with the same system, they had s/n plate black, the first number stood for the year, in this case 1990 was the first number 0, 1987 would start with 7, etc.

In 1997 they would have problems with the numbering again, and everything was written 1997 and the serial number continued with 7 as before.
1998 with 8.

In 1999 they switched to writing 99 - week - prod number.
this shows 9/89 on the top cover
 

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Tor R

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this shows 9/89 on the top cover
I've never looked at the top cover marking.
Serial number, or if missing, the crank marking.
The crank always has the production number and week number on it, and it usually matches within a month of when the saw was built at the factory.
 

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I've never looked at the top cover marking.
Serial number, or if missing, the crank marking.
The crank always has the production number and week number on it, and it usually matches within a month of when the saw was built at the factory.
crank as in crankshaft??
 

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Hi, I did a pressure test on my Husqvarna 42 ,and it has a small leak between the bearing and the crankshaft (metal to metal). Would this normally mean that I need a new bearing?
 

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Hi, I did a pressure test on my Husqvarna 42 ,and it has a small leak between the bearing and the crankshaft (metal to metal). Would this normally mean that I need a new bearing?
As long as the crankshaft holds its dimensions
 

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Hi, I did a pressure test on my Husqvarna 42 ,and it has a small leak between the bearing and the crankshaft (metal to metal). Would this normally mean that I need a new bearing?
How did you find out it had a leak between the bearing and the crankshaft? Did you do this with the oil seal off when you pressure tested? If you did the test with the oil seal on and it is leaking along the crankshaft, then you will need a new oil seal, one with a softer rubber and newer spring in it to hold it against the crankshaft to prevent the leaking. You should not need to replace the bearing unless it is corroded, burned, loose or broken.
 

Tor R

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Hi, I did a pressure test on my Husqvarna 42 ,and it has a small leak between the bearing and the crankshaft (metal to metal). Would this normally mean that I need a new bearing?
You have to split the crankcase again anyway with that leak.
It's 50-50 if it's an oversized bearing, or if the crankshaft is undersized, you can find out by testing a 6201 bearing on the shaft, if the bearing slides in without having to press, you can throw the crank.
I've seen this a few times, on both 238 and 242, twice on both 238 and 242, undersized crankshaft.
 

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I wonder if the red glue would hold it, I'm just curious
 
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