Setting up a grinder.

[Jscb1b]

I have an old grinder. It is either an Oregon or Windsor brand. It will not grind evenly. I read about it not being parallel. What is not parallel and how do you fix it?

 

[Tugg]

If it is an older oregon bench grinder or a copycat. On the backside of the chain clamping rails, there is usually a screw that pushes the rails forward. That is the adjustment so it will grind evenly for left and right teeth. if that is what you're saying as "evenly

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Poast a picture of your grinder and the chain holder area. (use the attach files feature)

 

[Brad Button]

I have an old grinder. It is either an Oregon or Windsor brand. It will not grind evenly. I read about it not being parallel. What is not parallel and how do you fix it?

It is probably because your chain vise is not set properly. There is a allen screw on the backside you tighten or loosen that depending on what gauge your chain is. Put your chain on the rails, use your finger, and see if it wobbles from side to side, turn the screw a little at a time checking the "wobble" as you go. If you get it too tight you will see the chain trying to ride up as it gets to the stop.

 

[Jscb1b]

It is a Windor brand, the ser no is 1984 10. The Allen screw in the middle is what adjusts parallel right?

 

[Motorka]

yes.,

 

[huskihl]

The Allen screw/jam nut adjusts the rear half of the vise in and out so your left and right cutters are the same length. But using a different gauge chain will require another adjustment if you want perfect. Most choose to set it up with .058 gauge so you’re in the middle and call it good enough. Or if you only grind one gauge of chain, set it up for that

 

[Jscb1b]

The first thing I did was clean the poor thing. The rails were worn unevenly so I removed them then bolted them together. I then ground them parallel. I reassembled it then I put in a new x cut chain. I messed with the center allen screw until each cutter tip just kissed the wheel. I then ground an old chain to check. The cutters look even to me.

 

[huskihl]

The first thing I did was clean the poor thing. The rails were worn unevenly so I removed them then bolted them together. I then ground them parallel. I reassembled it then I put in a new x cut chain. I messed with the center allen screw until each cutter tip just kissed the wheel. I then ground an old chain to check. The cutters look even to me.

You can put L and R cutters side by side and compare visually. @Philbert does it and it works for him. He might still have a pic

 

[Philbert]

You can put L and R cutters side by side and compare visually. @Philbert does it and it works for him. He might still have a pic

Micrometer not required.

Philbert

 

[Jscb1b]

I eyeballed my cutters and they are good enough. Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[Philbert]

Most full-sized chain grinders have some way to center the grinding wheel. But this changes as the wheel wears, or if you swap wheels.

A good thing to check periodically. But, best to have a way to compensate.

My method takes longer to read than to do. It becomes muscle memory:

- I grind all my Left cutters first;

- Rotate the vise and grind a test / sample Right cutter;

- Compare the sample Right cutter against any one of the Left cutters, for cutter length, gullet depth, angles, etc.

- Make any minor adjustments needed (this quickly becomes intuitive).

- Grind the remaining Right cutters.

I back off the tooth positioning dog and run the gullets on both sides, as needed.

Depth gauges require swapping the grinding wheel, so I often do these with a batch of sharpened loops.

Philbert

 

[Wilhelm]

You can put L and R cutters side by side and compare visually. @Philbert does it and it works for him. He might still have a pic

I do this too, the teeth do not need to be 100% equal to work nearly perfect.

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

My cutters left to right are never 100% exactly the same length. I just turn the chain holder left to right, and don’t think about it much. One side is always a smidge longer than the other. Same on both my Super Jolly and my Simington.
I can’t say I notice anything not working right, or not cutting straight.
I’ve never looked into it, but if someone has tips to correct it, I’d take an extra look and try to correct it.

 

[Philbert]

if someone has tips to correct it, I’d take an extra look and try to correct it.

See my notes, 2 posts above ^^^.

Since I know that my Left are almost always a hair shorter, I start with those. Easier to take an extra hair off of the Right cutters, than put metal back on the Left ones.

When I am sharpening several chains, I can pretty much predict what I need to tweak side-to-side (typically 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the chain back stop and the grinder head travel.

Figure out what works for you.

Philbert

 

[Jscb1b]

Does anyone do 10* down angle? Right side to the back and left side to the front?

 

[Philbert]

Does anyone do 10* down angle? Right side to the back and left side to the front?

I can. I tried it. But the differences were not significant to me. And it took extra steps.

Try it, and see if you notice a difference in your cutting.

Philbert

 

[Wilhelm]

Does anyone do 10* down angle? Right side to the back and left side to the front?

I tried that, didn't seem to affect anything bucking turkey oak so I went back to 0°.

 

[Wilhelm]

My cutters left to right are never 100% exactly the same length. I just turn the chain holder left to right, and don’t think about it much. One side is always a smidge longer than the other. Same on both my Super Jolly and my Simington.
I can’t say I notice anything not working right, or not cutting straight.
I’ve never looked into it, but if someone has tips to correct it, I’d take an extra look and try to correct it.

Custom wheel contact plate and shims of a variety of thicknesses.
Then You tinker a bit and figure out an approximate center of a specific wheel, repeat for wheels of other thicknesses.

I tried it, it works, but I don't bother with it as I keep swapping wheels for 3/8" , .325" and Carbide.
I simply adjust the tooth stop accordingly when switching from LH to RH or vice versa.

 

[Philbert]

Custom wheel contact plate and shims of a variety of thicknesses.
Then You tinker a bit and figure out an approximate center of a specific wheel, repeat for wheels of other thicknesses.

I tried it, it works, but I don't bother with it as I keep swapping wheels for 3/8" , .325" and Carbide.
I simply adjust the tooth stop accordingly when switching from LH to RH or vice versa.

View attachment 390561

WOW!

Philbert