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Help diagnosing log splitter problem

davidwyby

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I’d probably rip it apart and hack a regular control setup onto it. But I run a machine and welding shop…
 

forgero

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Have you talked to the hyd shop?
I havent yet. I have a feeling he will just say "order a new cylinder/pump" which will cost me $350, plus his time, thats probably $550 and ive already dropped over $200 at that rate I might as well just buy a new one and try to sell this one off for as much as I can get to someone that can fix it themselves.
 

big_eddy

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Thanks for all the replies.


I attached pictures of the control valve. it looked pretty clean inside, im not sure how it would be leaking unless its just poor design?
Is that the control valve or the pressure relief valve? it looks like the pressure relief to me. I don’t think your pressure relief is sticking open or leaking.

I’m thinking it is the advance / retract valve, which could be as simple as a standard ball valve with a cross drilled ball in a seat. If that seat is worn or the valve body is cracked, then it can bypass when under a load. That’s where I would focus my attention. if it is part of the cylinder as you state, then it should have been checked and o-rings/seals replaced during the service. Be worth asking,if the service was recent
 
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forgero

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Is that the control valve or the pressure relief valve? it looks like the pressure relief to me. I don’t think your pressure relief is sticking open or leaking.
according to the manual its the control valve, it sits behind the handle.

I’m thinking it is the advance / retract valve, which could be as simple as a standard ball valve with a cross drilled ball in a seat. If that seat is worn or the valve body is cracked, then it can bypass when under a load. That’s where I would focus my attention. if it is part of the cylinder as you state, then it should have been checked and o-rings/seals replaced during the service. Be worth asking,if the service was recent
he didnt mention anything about it, just that the seal in the cylinder was damaged.

I will call him tomorrow and see what he says.

thanks again everyone.
 

r7000

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nothing gets hot to the touch, and the fluid isnt hot either.

my opinion from what i could gather, and i keep forgetting to see if i can see one firsthand next time i'm at lowes, based on what u'v said thus far...

- you had service on it (for whatever reason) the cylinder and had seals replaced, and you specifically said there was rubber/seal material visible in the tank
- so u got debris in the system as a result, just reworking the cylinder is not a solution
- if the unit has no hydraulic power but is not getting hot, then you have an open [valve] somewhere where fluid is escaping, which on a simple unit such as this is either at or in the pump itself or at the control valves where u operate the splitter. Either of which should be diagnosable with a pressure gauge... but easier said than done oftentimes.
- compare the price of an entire new splitter to the cost of (1) a replacement pump and (2) a replacement control mechanism, and make a decision.
 

big_eddy

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Ok. i can see now from the picture how it works. That ball sits in a socket. You turn the handle clockwise and it lifts the ball off the seat. Turn it the other way and it seats again. The knurled end allows you to locate the handle on the shaft for appropriate travel.
Which direction splits wood? Fully clockwise or counterclockwise? I think I know but I want to confirm.

After the service, did the tech or you drain all the oil out of the system (cylinder yes, but tank, hoses, pump too) and flush it before refilling? What kind of filter and/or screens are there in the system?
 
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forgero

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Before I answer the latest questions, I wanted to share this.

I decided to take apart the pressure valve that looks like the below diagram:1703184977465.png

What I found is the attached image. there is an oring on the "screw" that is worn and as the fluid drained out there were thin black bits in it. its odd though that the diagram does not show that oring and the snap ring shown in the diagram is not there.

i will try replacing that oring and see if it fixes it.
 

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forgero

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after replacing the ring, I was able to run it for 53 minutes with only a few moments where it had trouble splitting bigger pieces, but was able to split them after repositioning or cutting off smaller pieces. not 100% back to factory strength but a huge improvement.

I could have kept going, but had to stop for other reasons.
 

big_eddy

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Seems that was the cause of your problem. The damaged oring was preventing the pressure relief from seating properly, so the relief would open at too low a pressure,
Now the relief only opens on a tough one, like it should.
Glad its working again.
Turn it in another 1/4 turn for more power, but don’t overdo it. When something has to give, best it’s the relief valve.
 

r7000

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Turn it in another 1/4 turn for more power, but don’t overdo it. When something has to give, best it’s the relief valve.

this is where u would want a pressure gauge to be able to see pump output pressure to have some idea. for a small unit like that I would expect the 1 cylinder engine to stall out as the failure if the pressure relief is set too high or does not relief. And possibly bend the crank or rod in the engine if the ram hits a non compressible object, would be no different than the engine hydrolocking.
 
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