Considering a grinder finally

[TreeLife]

Alright guys, I have been trying to figure out a side hustle and decided to start a sharpening business. With the amount of tree services, firewood services, loggers etc in the area and not many people doing it, I figured it would be a good idea.

Going to sharpen all size chains, axes, repair chisels and sharpen knives as well.

The question for me is, what is a good general purpose grinder? I'm not scared to spend some money but I'm not buying a square grinder. No one round here runs it.

Opinions?

 

[huskihl]

Tecomec/Stens Super Jolly. Same as Oregon 620

 

[president]

Go the stihl USG! with a cbn wheel
they are overbuilt and are accurate to the scales on each side

 

[larasea]

Very happy with my Oregon 620 with CBN grinding wheels. I use a digital angle finder to set the head tilt. The scale is not accurate on my unit.

Also, a big shout out to huskihl for helping me with grinding angles on Stihl RS and RM chains. Great Recipe. LOL

 

[ZERO]

Which ever quality suits you best.
I had a local shop go out of business, bought 3x maxx grinders for the price of one.

High volume sharpening, interchangeable parts is the key.

My 4th one original has been going for two decades, and yet they are not very popular here.

 

[Ryan Browne]

I have a tecomec Super jolly and I like it a lot. Probably the only thing I'd rather have would be a USG with a foot pedal clamp. Though, from what I hear, the Silvey round grinder of yesteryear is pretty nice also. Probably tricky to find one though.

 

[MG2186]

Tecomec/Stens Super Jolly. Same as Oregon 620

I finally broke down and bought one of these and like it quite well. Pretty good improvement over my Timber Tuff I’ve been using for the last 10 years. The hydraulic vice is a real nice feature

 

[huskihl]

I finally broke down and bought one of these and like it quite well. Pretty good improvement over my Timber Tuff I’ve been using for the last 10 years. The hydraulic vice is a real nice feature

I agree. Had to throw the book out the window to get it calibrated and set up properly so L and R cutters were the same, but simple enough

 

[TreeLife]

I priced out a USG today as well. I figured it was worth a shot! It isn't on back order, the price wasn't terrible etc

 

[Loony661]

I own an Oregon 511 and it works well, and will probably outlast my operation. My biggest gripe with it though, is that the angles are sloppy, and not exactly true from L to R..

I have also used a couple different Stihl USG’s and I can tell you hands down, that I wish I would have bought one for myself instead of the Oregon. The Stihl is by far a better, heavier, more accurately built machine. Biggest complaint on the Stihl - must run their odd sized grinding wheels.

 

[TreeLife]

I'm not scared to spend money on a truly excellent product. I've got a couple grand kicking around to get this thing going.

 

[farminkarman]

Tecomec/Stens Super Jolly. Same as Oregon 620

+1 I have and really like my 620. The Simington 451 only gets occasional use.

 

[huskihl]

+1 I have and really like my 620. The Simington 451 only gets occasional use.

I keep mine for the gtg so @dall has something to do and doesn’t tell everyone to gtfo.

 

[Colonel 428]

I agree. Had to throw the book out the window to get it calibrated and set up properly so L and R cutters were the same, but simple enough

Hey Kevin. Please share with me again about you calibrated your Super Jolly. Mine takes a little more off the left side cutters, not always but often enough that I can notice. You told me once but honestly, it went completely over my head and I just couldn't get the concept. Maybe I'll get it this time...Thanks, Steve

 

[huskihl]

Hey Kevin. Please share with me again about you calibrated your Super Jolly. Mine takes a little more off the left side cutters, not always but often enough that I can notice. You told me once but honestly, it went completely over my head and I just couldn't get the concept. Maybe I'll get it this time...Thanks, Steve

If your left cutters are short, you need to rotate the dial to the next size bigger driver gauge. If they still aren’t the same, turn it another click. Once they are both relatively the same, you have to pop the snap ring and dial off the front and reinstall it where it lines up with whichever gauge chain you are using

 

[Wilhelm]

I own a AMA MAXX and for me and my usage of chainsaws it was/is a huge step up from filing all my chains.
A little sloppy - check.
Uneven tooth legth LH to RH cutters - check.
Could do with a little more tilt - check.

But also mechanic DL clamp, swivel vice so the wheel always pulls the bur in, affordable unit and wheels.

The uneven length LH/RH cutter issue can be remedied with a thinner custom contact plate and various thickness shims towards the motor.
I made my own and it works , the wheel can be centered fairly accurately.
Although this needs be figured out and done for every individual wheel.
Having one MAXX for every chain pitch One could center the individual wheels on each grinder and get quite reasonable grinding results.

So much for my humble input on the matter.
Keep in mind I am just a homeowner firewood hack and a newbie with grinding my chains.

Good luck with Your endeavor!

 

[drf256]

What angles do you guys prefer for general work?

Are you also doing the +/- 10* with the base using the “right away” method?

 

[Loony661]

What angles do you guys prefer for general work?

Are you also doing the +/- 10* with the base using the “right away” method?

25*-30* top plate angle, and yes, tilt chain 10* for more efficient chip flow, faster cut. Works for my needs anyway.

 

[farminkarman]

What angles do you guys prefer for general work?

Are you also doing the +/- 10* with the base using the “right away” method?

For 3/8" full chisel chain, I generally run 25° top plate angle, and 55° on the grinder tilt adjustment. Sometimes I do the +/- 10° thing, but I usually don't. For 3/8" semi, I do 30° top plate, 60° on the tilt, and zero on the chain holder offset.

 

[Wolverine]

As much time as I spend grinding a loop, filing gullets and adjusting depth gauges, I wonder how the he11 guys do it for $6-7 bucks. Hope it works out for you Dominick. I'd be looking auto.