MS460 Teardown-Comments Welcome

[Moparmyway]

Angelo, the little bungee holds the cylinder (which is over the rings) and piston up while I apply the gasket maker to the base. I start the cylinder over the piston before I apply the gasket maker, and I'm working on it alone.

Dan, I used the 51817 again, just made sure I sanded and cleaned with carb cleaner so it should stick better this time. Fingers crossed.

Mike, a little practice and you will be able to coat the base then slide it over the rings, no bungee necessary

 

[MustangMike]

Was afraid of mucking it up. I slide that grooved thing over the base to hold the piston up while I use the ring compressor and slide the piston over.

Admittedly, I'm an amateur at this, but it worked!

 

[paragonbuilder]

Awesome! Now let's see if she runs...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[drf256]

Feel Free to send me the saw Mike.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I've started using this.
Cheap & readily available

 

[huskihl]

I've started using this.
Cheap & readily available

You use that on a jug and you'll have to do more than loosen bolts to get it off

 

[angelo c]

Angelo, the little bungee holds the cylinder (which is over the rings) and piston up while I apply the gasket maker to the base. I start the cylinder over the piston before I apply the gasket maker, and I'm working on it alone.

Dan, I used the 51817 again, just made sure I sanded and cleaned with carb cleaner so it should stick better this time. Fingers crossed.

Ok now I understand the reasoning....but....the only time a jug is "easily" placed over a piston is when there are no rings. Like when measuring squish ect. The rings provided enough resistance where I've never needed anything to hold it up. I usually have to rock and screw the jug over the piston with moderate effort. As opposed to being weary of it falling. But whatever port in a storm ...will get you home.

 

[MustangMike]

Damn it Jeremy, YOU WIN THE PRIZE!!!!!!

After putting the cylinder back down, I assembled the saw, and it still would not start. So based on all the comments, I replaced the coil. When I saw fuel coming out the muffler, and I still did not get a pop, I had to just put it down and walk away for a while. As I thought on it, Jeremy's comment seemed like the only logical answer.

When I pulled the flywheel nut last time I must have just checked that the space between the flywheel & key was correct, but that does not mean anything. I pulled the flywheel today, and the key is sheered, and was off by almost 180 degrees.

Thanks for the advice Jeremy, at least I know what it is now and can stop going crazy!!!

 

[Canadian farm boy]

I'm glad you got it all sorted out.

 

[MustangMike]

This saw has been the most frustrating one I have ever worked on. I was told it had a bad P&C, which did not bother me because I intended to to install the 046-D jug I got off ebay and Al ported (and I purchased a new piston for it anyway).

I was initially elated to learn there was nothing wrong with the original P&C, and I still have them on the side, but as I flushed the crank out to assemble it, I noticed the bearings were bad, so I had them replaced (you could not detect the problem till I flushed the case). I also noticed the kill switch was missing a contact. Since it is located next to the carb in a protected area, I can not even imagine how that happened!

Luckily, I was able to catch Mark in the shop today and a new flywheel nut and key will be on their way Monday.

I'm determined to have this saw up and running at the GTG on 4/24. It is tough working on a "problem case" when your time is limited.

Thankfully, the advice from the members (in this case Jeremy's) saved the day!

THANK YOU JEREMY, I SHOULD HAVE CHECKED IT MORE THOROUGHLY THE FIRST TIME!!!!!

 

[Moparmyway]

Yep
I sat a freshly rebuilt minty 034 on the shelf once because of that very same reason.
Ran for 30 seconds and quit.
Flywheel seemed "fine".
Wasn't spinning on the crank and I could see the key that appeared to be still intact.

Put a new key in it, started and ran on 2nd pull.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

 

[sefh3]

Well is it running yet?

 

[MustangMike]

Not unless time is in reverse and the parts that will be shipped on Monday arrived already!

 

[VinceGU05]

It never back fired while trying to start it? I have had a few saws with key way issues and they usually back fire when the timing is up to sheet.
Glad you found it and have it on the mend now [emoji4][emoji1360]

 

[MustangMike]

As I previously stated, it initially started, ran very rough, then died and would not start again. I thought it was a carb or air leak problem.

Never kicked after that, timing must have been too far off.

 

[MustangMike]

It just dawned on me that I've got a MS440 parts saw. Anyone know if the flywheel nut and crank key are the same on the 440 as on the 460???

 

[Adirondackstihl]

It just dawned on me that I've got a MS440 parts saw. Anyone know if the flywheel nut and crank key are the same on the 440 as on the 460???

FW nut.......... yes

Crank....... no

 

[MustangMike]

Before I get myself into trouble tying to do it, anyone want to share any tips on separating the cylinder from the piston on a fried saw?

Are they usually "stuck" or do they usually just come apart?

I acquired two saws right before tax season that had fried P&Cs, and working on them will be another 1st for me.

Boy, I'm gettin to be a pain in the A$$, aren't I???

 

[Moparmyway]

Make a grease zerk fit into the spark plug hole and pump away untill you can pull it off