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MustangMike

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When I picked up this MS460 project saw, the tech lifted it up and pulled the recoil cord to demonstrate it had no compression, but for $50 I wanted it anyway. Was not till I got it home that I realized the saw had no plug or decompression valve, so of course it had not compression.

Looked through the muffler, there was no transfer, but I thought I saw some scratches in the P&C.

Today I finally got the jug off and there is no major damage, the rings are free, the piston is well oiled and I'll bet it would have run w/o any dis assembly. (See pic, apologize for the poor quality)

I did notice the coil wires were not connected to the kill switch, and looks like the kill switch is missing an electrode.

Crank does not have any play, piston has mild wear consistent with use.

My thoughts are to get a new piston, put my 046-D jug on it, and trouble shoot the rest of it.

I can not believe the P&C are in such good shape!

Considering what I have found, what do you guys think?
 

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MustangMike

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The 460 jug says Stihl on it, but I can not find any indication who made it, am I looking in the wrong place? The 046-D jug says both Stihl & Mahle (on the opposite side) on it.

I informally compared the two jugs, and did not see as much difference as I expected with regard to port size & location. What I did notice is that the D jug looks "finished", and the 460 jug almost looks like I would expect an AM jug to look like. There are dimples is all of the ports except the intake that look like they should have been smoothed out, but were not.

This was also my first time pulling a jug, and I won't lie and tell you I did not have any problems. I don't have any tools that will fit in there, except the tool that came with the saw, and I was having trouble getting enough force on that to break the bolts free. Ended up cleaning out the bolts as much as I could with a long neck flat head screw driver, then put a vice grip in the Stihl tool, right at the 90 degree (to reduce flex). Then when I put it down each hole, I lightly tapped it with a medium screw driver between the vice grip jaws and a hammer, and was then able to break them free.

I guess I can choose which jug I want to use, but if I use this one I'm going to get rid of those casting dimples around the ports. However, if it cleans up well, I think I'd rather use the D cylinder.
 

Keith Gandy

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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261914370371&alt=web
Best tool u will buy for a Stihl! The cylinder looks good Mike so id clean it up with scotchbrite and on the piston clean it up with the scotchbrite also and maybe some new Caber rings and put her back together and check compression. She may be good to go
 

cgraham1

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Mike, get the t-handle torx, or a long (6") t-27 torx bit for easier disassembly. If you work on Huskys, get a set of t-handle allens. That will save you a lot of frustration.

I use a dental tool to clean the crud out of the bolt heads, to avoid stripping them out.
 

cgraham1

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If the piston is not worn out, a set of Cabers would be a good idea, plus whatever jug you'd rather use. Either one should work fine. Might as well check/replace the fuel and impulse lines while you have the carb off.

When you're reassembling, tie a string around the intake boot and pull it through the carb base while you're pushing the jug down. The first time you do it, it's a bit of a wrestling match getting the rings compressed while sliding the jug on, and trying to get the boot through there, but it's not too bad.
 

Keith Gandy

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The 460 jug says Stihl on it, but I can not find any indication who made it, am I looking in the wrong place? The 046-D jug says both Stihl & Mahle (on the opposite side) on it.

I informally compared the two jugs, and did not see as much difference as I expected with regard to port size & location. What I did notice is that the D jug looks "finished", and the 460 jug almost looks like I would expect an AM jug to look like. There are dimples is all of the ports except the intake that look like they should have been smoothed out, but were not.

This was also my first time pulling a jug, and I won't lie and tell you I did not have any problems. I don't have any tools that will fit in there, except the tool that came with the saw, and I was having trouble getting enough force on that to break the bolts free. Ended up cleaning out the bolts as much as I could with a long neck flat head screw driver, then put a vice grip in the Stihl tool, right at the 90 degree (to reduce flex). Then when I put it down each hole, I lightly tapped it with a medium screw driver between the vice grip jaws and a hammer, and was then able to break them free.

I guess I can choose which jug I want to use, but if I use this one I'm going to get rid of those casting dimples around the ports. However, if it cleans up well, I think I'd rather use the D cylinder.
Mike the more u disassemble and reassemble the easier it will get . I can literally have a jug off a 044/440, 046/460 within 5 minutes
 

Canadian farm boy

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Keith Gandy

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I've got one of those kits. They work very well. Prior to having that kit I was using a couple small lengths off an old broom handle to place under the piston and a large plastic tie(zip tie) to compress the rings. Whatever gets the job done
Ya for the price they r awesome
 

Keith Gandy

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I've found it just as easy to compress them with my fingers, but the ring compressors are helpful sometimes.
I gave up trying that along time ago!! Lol! Fingers never worked well for me. I also believe the compression rings r easier on the ring edges too but just my opinion
 

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I've found it just as easy to compress them with my fingers, but the ring compressors are helpful sometimes.
I've got sausage fingers :oops:. I had to find an easier way to compress the rings. The zip tie trick works very well if you don't have the kit
 

MustangMike

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Thanks for the advice, but I still have a couple of questions:

1) Should I re use a piston even if the machine marks are worn off?

2) If I do decide to re use the original jug, what should I use to remove the casting imperfections that are inside the ports?

Thanks.
 

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I find that a cartridge roll in a die grinder works good or a small sanding drum on a dremmel tool works good too. The cartridge roll is the second from the top in the pouch.image.jpg
The sanding drums are in the front of the case on both the LH and RH sidesimage.jpg
 

cgraham1

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Unless the piston is slapping, it doesn't really matter. Even a slightly scored piston will run fine with a new set of rings.The rings are what ride against the cylinder walls, not the piston... but there is a point where the space between the piston and cylinder becomes too large, allowing the piston to rock back and forth, which can be catastrophic. It doesn't hurt to replace the piston. It's only $40, rings alone will cost about $15. Is it worth $25 to you to have the peace of mind of a new piston? And Meteor pistons are just fine. I have them in a few saws, including ported ones.
 

Adirondackstihl

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Mike, get the t-handle torx, or a long (6") t-27 torx bit for easier disassembly. If you work on Huskys, get a set of t-handle allens. That will save you a lot of frustration.

I use a dental tool to clean the crud out of the bolt heads, to avoid stripping them out.
Exactly!!!!!
 

Adirondackstihl

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Thanks for the advice, but I still have a couple of questions:

1) Should I re use a piston even if the machine marks are worn off?

2) If I do decide to re use the original jug, what should I use to remove the casting imperfections that are inside the ports?

Thanks.
Send me the jug if you want Mike.
I'll clean it up.
But I would recommend giving Mark a call and get yourself a piston kit.


 
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