Huztle Crank

[67L36Driver]

Your fuel filter/line lay flat in the bottom of the tank?

Mine don't. Make it run out at 1/4 tank.

 

[Red97]

I do want some of your deflectors, I may have to stop by your shop on way to my folks in SE MI sometime!

Yeh, hit me up sometime.

 

[schmidteo]

Well, I figured out the problem with my carb! I was doing another leak check for a vacuum leak and I noticed that the intake block was not able to seal. I took off the metal ring that surrounds the intake rubber and it sealed up fine. I had an oem ring and compared the two.....


Put the oem in and it runs! The Huztle is %50 thicker and was leaning it out.
I did use a Waldbro off my Stihl 361, but it's 11 degrees out and I don't feel like swapping carbs any more tonight

@67L36Driver, could this be your issue?

 

[67L36Driver]

I'll have to check.

How thick is the OEM?

Going to pull the carb on #2 for a pump diaphragm change any way.

A smear of Permatex #2 gasket sealer prolly wouldn't hurt.

 

[schmidteo]

I didn't measure it, but it's about the thickness of a dime. Also, the aftermarket is not the same thickness at all points.

 

[67L36Driver]

R & R the starter and replaced the flywheel nut on 361 #1. OEM flange nut, star lockwasher and blue Locktite for him.

Replaced the blue plastic fuel pump diaphragm on #2 with the tan fabric item from another carb kit. See if it will start on choke.

 

[67L36Driver]

Did the air filter base fit the snorkel on the metering side of the carb?

Mine don't. Hole much too large.

Going too sleeve it with some plastic tubing.

Pic later when I have enuff light.

 

[schmidteo]

Bad news. She got hard to start then wouldn't...


Had a shoulder nut and the flywheel was not loose. Bad interface?

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Damn...

 

[67L36Driver]

Bad news. She got hard to start then wouldn't...
View attachment 55550

Had a shoulder nut and the flywheel was not loose. Bad interface?

That's why I went to the next size longer woodruff key and filed to fit.

Use the compression release. Saves stress on key and keyway.

I don't think the keyway is cut proper from the get go.

 

[schmidteo]

So do you think the taper on the flywheel and the taper on the crank are just too different? Has the new key been working for you?

 

[paragonbuilder]

Bad news. She got hard to start then wouldn't...
View attachment 55550

Had a shoulder nut and the flywheel was not loose. Bad interface?

That's why I went to the next size longer woodruff key and filed to fit.

Use the compression release. Saves stress on key and keyway.

I don't think the keyway is cut proper from the get go.

So do you think the taper on the flywheel and the taper on the crank are just too different? Has the new key been working for you?

The key is for alignment purposes only. The tapers should match and hold tight with no key in there.
Try some valve lapping compound, it will show you if the tapers are off, and can take small irregularities out.

 

[67L36Driver]

Supplied key didn't stand proud enuff from the crankshaft. Not long enuff either and the keyway in the flywheel is very deep.

Don't know yet on my fix due to the carb issue.

Carb from @DefinativeDave got here this morning.

 

[schmidteo]

The key is for alignment purposes only. The tapers should match and hold tight with no key in there.
Try some valve lapping compound, it will show you if the tapers are off, and can take small irregularities out.

Thanks Paragon, I will start with that.

Supplied key didn't stand proud enuff from the crankshaft. Not long enuff either and the keyway in the flywheel is very deep.

Don't know yet on my fix due to the carb issue.

Carb from @DefinativeDave got here this morning.

I will hit the hardware store tomorrow and pick up a longer key. Between lapping the taper and new key, I should be able to get her back running.

I will post up when its back together.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Thanks Paragon, I will start with that.



I will hit the hardware store tomorrow and pick up a longer key. Between lapping the taper and new key, I should be able to get her back running.

I will post up when its back together.

Make sure after lapping it to remove all residue or you will repeat the issue. I use brake cleaner and wipe it with paper towels.

 

[schmidteo]

Will do.

Thinking back, the surface machining was pretty rough. I took some 400 wet/dry to the bearing seal area before assembly, I guess I should have done the whole taper too.

 

[stihl saws]

The key is for alignment purposes only. The tapers should match and hold tight with no key in there.
Try some valve lapping compound, it will show you if the tapers are off, and can take small irregularities out.

This is the right answer. The key makes zero difference.
Probably a good idea for everyone buying the kit saws to lap the flywheel for fit.

 

[stihl saws]

Will do.

Thinking back, the surface machining was pretty rough. I took some 400 wet/dry to the bearing seal area before assembly, I guess I should have done the whole taper too.

Negative. You need to use valve grinding compound and twist the flywheel on the crank until they mesh perfectly. No way to do it with sandpaper.

 

[67L36Driver]

A taper reamer that matchs the crank would be better.
Flywheel bore is as ruff as a cobb. (as cast)[emoji19]

 

[schmidteo]

Negative. You need to use valve grinding compound and twist the flywheel on the crank until they mesh perfectly. No way to do it with sandpaper.

Understood.

I'm going to have to take a file to the displaced metal before I do anything, I think.