Husqvarna 562XP - A Tale of Woe

[HumBurner]

Even though it's an electronic controlled carb it can still suffer from the typical fuel delivery problems that you probably won't be clued into until it's too late. Clogged fuel filters or screens, and stiff diaphragms will cause them to lean out up top enough that the AT can no longer compensate for it.

Why has Husqy not initiated a "reset then kill" command when the numbers start to lean out like this?

It attempts to reset/retune, then if the new numbers don't stick , the saw will not run until flashed/fixed?


Edit: autocorrect done fudged that post all up!

 

[HumBurner]

Autotune runs the saw lean until it senses an increase in RPM and then richens the fuel

That sounds like unnecessarily flirting with disaster, as opposed to having it slightly fatter on the low, even at idle. Too much oil is better than not enough.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

That sounds like unnecessarily flirting with disaster, as opposed to having it slightly fatter on the low, even at idle. Too much oil is better than not enough.

Without a bunch of different sensors there's not many options. As far as I know A/T only has access to RPM.

As RPM's increase, push it lean, add more fuel. Wash, rinse, repeat.

 

[davidwyby]

@afleetcommand and @Spike60 know a thing or two about ATs

 

[afleetcommand]

Wow. Did a video on how the Autotune works a few years ago, I'll see if I can find it. It's a simple system that works. Too much over analysis is the norm for many on the subject

 

[TheWizard]

This may help, copy from another very helpful site.

 

[Mastermind]

My ignorance on Autotune saws is part of the problem

I read the first post.....skimmed the rest, so forgive me if you got this already.

The saw was scored. There was a reason why it scored. I'd wager it has a bad bearing and is sucking air at one of the crank seals. It being an Autotune saw is causing you to think its different than a regular saw....well it really isn't.

Do a pressure test. Find out WHY it scored. Simple.

 

[Johnmn]

I read the first post.....skimmed the rest, so forgive me if you got this already.

The saw was scored. There was a reason why it scored. I'd wager it has a bad bearing and is sucking air at one of the crank seals. It being an Autotune saw is causing you to think its different than a regular saw....well it really isn't.

Do a pressure test. Find out WHY it scored. Simple.

I have seen a few of these with leaky base gaskets as well but odds are it’s a seal like you said.

 

[Mastermind]

I have seen a few of these with leaky base gaskets as well but odds are it’s a seal like you said.

I use compressed air regulated to 10 psi to pressure test in most cases. That way I have plenty of volume. Then I spray soapy water till I see bubbles. But yeah.....base gaskets, transfer seals, crank seals, etc. All cause scoring.

 

[TheWizard]

I have seen a few of these with leaky base gaskets as well but odds are it’s a seal like you said.

Talking of leaking base gaskets! Husqvarna recommends a sealant added to the intake side of the base gasket only, presumably to insure no air leak, I read it in a 550xp workshop manual. If I can find it I'll post it here. I have seen lots on youtube working on saws and to be honest their workmanship is nonexistent. You can tell a good tradesman by the way he treats his tool, if they throw them around the bench what will they do with your prized saw.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

I'm not sure if you meant to say this or I misunderstood what you mean.. but running it wide open OUT of the cut is NOT how you calibrate the autotune.. it's a 5mins of low idle and then a 60sec full throttle rip-cut IN A LOG that is how the autotune is supposed to be calibrated when it's initially put together or when you first buy it, I just bought 3 different ones and my dealer made sure i understood, because apparently some people think it means a minute of full-throttle pis-revving (which it isn't) you already got some great advice here but i figured it wouldn't hurt to mention this bit.

Howdy, this autotuning is correct, in Aus’ even the dealers here i’ve spoken with have no idea about this. I have the first 562 made, got it second hand, performs faultless and has done a damn lot of work in my hands let alone before. For eg the 592xp autotune 3 youtube video below of correct way to autotune a husky, same for my 562, you are right most think let it idle and rev the guts out of it cross cutting also i run all my saws 25:1 or if autotune 32:1 none of that fifty rubbish, i want longevity not a spare parts bill! (will try get this link on to the poster’ himself)

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Yes it seems they've changed their recommendations on that, and I see in the manuals for the 2021/2022 saws it just says what autotune is, nothing on the calibration procedure at all.
I was told that it's a 60-90sec long constant full throttle ripping cut in a log to get a cut that gives it a long enough time to make a few adjustments which you can often hear being made by the tone of the exhust note, and that is to be done immediately after letting it sit and idle for 5min. Husqvarna has a few YouTube videos explaining the procedure which they call autotune calibration / autotune reset
The important thing I was stating was that the saw should NEVER be run at WOT for 60+sec only holding it.. you MUST BE CUTTING WOOD! And if you seen what I originally quoted I was making sure that was well known

Howdy, in respect to tuning, i posted this sometime after when i received my 592 because nobody had one in Aus’ to do it, let alone knew, even husky here. Its the same procedure for the 562 (i have the first model)

ps 32:1 for autotune saws. 25:1 fir all the rest and Air-Cooled Two Stroke oil preferably one that states ‘who’ manufactures the oil!!! Do some research

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Why does everyone think that mechanical problems with autotunes can be diagnosed/cured by plugging it in?

They're basically miniaturized throttle body tech from the 80s.

The same thing fails with them mechanically as other saws.

Every 562 I see in the shop that acts the slightest bit funny gets the pressure and vac.

Seen em with 40 hours on em, blown bearings. Seen em with 250 hours, no problems.

Crappy filtration (older models), low-mass, high performance saws that have a tendency to burn up bearings in the bottom end. They also had a run with the seals pressed too far into the bearings.

 

[slackinoff]

Does the official Husqvarna website not have a video posted showing how to do an auto tune reset?

Thats just silly of them, if they don't....In my opinion. Why leave something that important up to the general public to decide and potentially screw up, giving their brand a bad reputation.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Does the official Husqvarna website not have a video posted showing how to do an auto tune reset?

Thats just silly of them, if they don't....In my opinion. Why leave something that important up to the general public to decide and potentially screw up, giving their brand a bad reputation.

Autotune resets overrated.

Won't fix underlying mechanical issues/leaks.

Again, most problems with these really have nothing to do with the Autotune system. At least in my experience.

 

[Mastermind]

Autotune resets overrated.

Won't fix underlying mechanical issues/leaks.

Again, most problems with these really have nothing to do with the Autotune system. At least in my experience.

Agreed. Just running the saw in a real working environment is all the input the system needs.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Agreed. Just running the saw in a real working environment is all the input the system needs.

The autotune creates a perverse fascination that really doesn't deserve a second thought. It's almost never the center of the problem with these machines.

There's a temperature sensor, a fuel solenoid, a chip in the coil that controls the system and a throttle position sensor. Hardly any voodoo.

They suffer all the same ills as a non-autotune saw, but people have a hard time understanding it. Dirt in carbs, air leaks, worn mechanical parts, bad seals/bearings, physical damage.

I mean, I wish I could "re-flash" my way to new crank bearings too, but it just don't work. The main problems around the 562 are GENERALLY mechanical, not computer/ sensor related.

It's really a perpetuated miscommunication by lazy dealers too scared to look at them or diagnose them, so they just blame Autotune, so you buy a new saw.

 

[Mastermind]

The autotune creates a perverse fascination that really doesn't deserve a second thought. It's almost never the center of the problem with these machines.

There's a temperature sensor, a fuel solenoid, a chip in the coil that controls the system and a throttle position sensor. Hardly any voodoo.

They suffer all the same ills as a non-autotune saw, but people have a hard time understanding it. Dirt in carbs, air leaks, worn mechanical parts, bad seals/bearings, physical damage.

I mean, I wish I could "re-flash" my way to new crank bearings too, but it just don't work. The main problems around the 562 are GENERALLY mechanical, not computer/ sensor related.

It's really a perpetuated miscommunication by lazy dealers too scared to look at them or diagnose them, so they just blame Autotune, so you buy a new saw.

Spot on.

I have a 661 here that a customer converted to adjustable because (according to his description of the issue) it needed a new solenoid. It never ran right after the swap, so I'm putting it back as it was. Sadly, he twisted a screw off in the choke shaft that I can't get out, so a new carb is on order.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

I always ask guys if they'd go out and replace their electronically controlled fuel systems in their trucks with a carburetor.

The answer is always a resounding "no."


But why, would we use logic?

 

[HumBurner]

I always ask guys if they'd go out and replace their electronically controlled fuel systems in their trucks with a carburetor.

The answer is always a resounding "no."


But why, would we use logic?

Logic hasn't been popular since the 70s....you choose which century.