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Husqvarna 562XP - A Tale of Woe

Stump Shot

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I think that at least part of the issue is that new service technicians are used to "plugging it in" for doing diagnostics this day and age on a lot of today's machines. Here's an example.
A friend asked me to go with him to look over an older snowmobile that he wished to purchase but didn't want to get into over his head with a bad engine. etc.. While there the owner said that he had the carburetor rebuilt and never ran since, it would however run on spray. He took it back and the technician told him there was nothing more he could do as there was no place to "plug it in".
After looking it over really good, I gave my friend the nod to go ahead. It took me all of 15 minutes to have that sled up and running as the only thing wrong with it was the base gasket did not have the hole in it for the crankcase impulse to work the fuel pump.
I'm not quite sure how being able to "plug it in", would have helped diagnose the situation.
 

slackinoff

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@Mastermind @Duke Thieroff - Yes all true...but I was talking about the general confusion on the matter. People think it's important and are doing it anyways, but incorrectly. How many threads, facebook posts, people piss revving their saws for a min straight could be cleared up with an official 2 min video from the manufacturer right from product release.

I was just saying a lot of confusion could have been avoided with better information from the manufacturer. But then again, what else is new.
 

Duke Thieroff

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@Mastermind @Duke Thieroff - Yes all true...but I was talking about the general confusion on the matter. People think it's important and are doing it anyways, but incorrectly. How many threads, facebook posts, people piss revving their saws for a min straight could be cleared up with an official 2 min video from the manufacturer right from product release.

I was just saying a lot of confusion could have been avoided with better information from the manufacturer. But then again, what else is new.
It's omitted because it's unnecessary.
 

slackinoff

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It's omitted because it's unnecessary.

Necessary or not, I don't think omission is the best way to approach an issue like this. It clearly has left a lot of confusion in it's wake has it not?
 

Skiptooth Fred

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Does the official Husqvarna website not have a video posted showing how to do an auto tune reset?

Thats just silly of them, if they don't....In my opinion. Why leave something that important up to the general public to decide and potentially screw up, giving their brand a bad reputation.
At the time i had received my 592 saw prior to the dealers, there was a lot of varying thoughts on tuning it, or be they very vague ideas, tune it properly and they perform very well. I took mine in to a dealer recently just as a curiosity plug in and bore condition check, all was good, i was told one thing in return regarding the bore, ‘man its in good nick’ and ‘i see you must be running good fuel!’ I feed it 98oct and gulf western air cooled two stroke oil-mineral @ 32:1 or as the manual states 33:1 and the spark arrester screen was removed for running in (dunno thats a me thing but i see no point restricting and loading a new engine or any for that matter) surprising the difference it seems to have with that out too, and louder! i’ve thoughts on modding the muffler with a much larger hole and adding the mesh for jobs where it ‘is’ required. Luv this saw
 
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MG2186

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When the fuel mixture gets to the 9's, that's as much as it can adjust, or in other words it's at its maximum setting and cannot give any more fuel. Which is much the same as if an operator turned out the mixture screws to no more effect. When it was running in the 8's, that was your warning sign that an air leak was happening. It went unheeded so it did what it could, and the end result was imminent. As far as 562's go, they do not take to misuse very well and when I say this I generally mean that when ran with a dull chain heat will build up in the clutch side bearing and melt the plastic separator, which lets the balls all to go to one side and then starts tugging at the seal, which cannot hold out long and gets worse by the minute at this point. So now that the saw was kept running, both bottom and top end are blown. This of course should be confirmed by pressure/vac testing the saw and possibly a good tug on the clutch to check for movement to and fro.
This would be the death nell for most any other saw, not so for the 562. Husqvarna offers as a "fix" of sorts a inexpensive compete crankcase which when combined with a new top end kit, will put your saw back in order. Once started the autotune will quickly adjust from where it's at if a reset is not performed.
The autotune system itself works quite well, it does however and quite unfairly if I might say, get blamed for everything else bad that happens with these 5 series saws.
Good explanation and well put Steve!
 

FergusonTO35

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There is a nice looking 562 in a pawn shop for $500 asking price. I'm not really interested unless it was giveaway cheap. I picked it up and it sure felt heavy for being one step above my usual 50cc saws.
 

Maintenance Chief

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I always ask guys if they'd go out and replace their electronically controlled fuel systems in their trucks with a carburetor.

The answer is always a resounding "no."


But why, would we use logic?
Im sorry,but ive done this, but I still enjoy fuel injection and my M-tronic saws.
The early Bosch fuel injection was garbage. I like carburetors for what they are , which is a very simple mechanical device .
 

Duke Thieroff

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Im sorry,but ive done this, but I still enjoy fuel injection and my M-tronic saws.
The early Bosch fuel injection was garbage. I like carburetors for what they are , which is a very simple mechanical device .
I get it 100%.

I think the M-tronic and AT systems are generally drama free. Nothing wrong with a carb, especially for guys who understand how they work.


Guys who just like to turn screws without understanding the function, now that's a different story 🤣🤣
 

Junk Meister

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I have logged for years with them. All ported and have never had any autotune issues or bearing problems. IMHO I think it gas mix and dull chain issues!
YEAH !BUT!!! When I was sampling yours and Billy's ported saws. I was oblivious to a "LULL" in the saw Just before It went into the cut. I WOOD Never had acknowledged it. I"M not oblivious now just a bit confused. RECTUM this is one of the reasons I'm reading threads like this..
AND thanks to all the comments explaining the basics to guys like me.
 

Bob95065

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Yesterday I split the cases on the saw. The flywheel bearing failed which I didn't expect. You can see it here:
20240314_151116.jpg

Look at the spacing at the portion of the bearing at the bottom of the picture.

Very easy to see after I pressed it off the crankshaft:

20240314_165802.jpg

This is a 2019 model:

20240314_171406.jpg

I started a new thread to see if anyone knows of a source for metal caged replacements here: Husqvarna 562XP - Any source for steel-caged bearings?

Like I said in the other thread: I really want to like this saw but the design makes it hard. I think there is a market for metal caged replacement bearings for these saws.
 

HumBurner

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Yesterday I split the cases on the saw. The flywheel bearing failed which I didn't expect. You can see it here:
View attachment 412031

Look at the spacing at the portion of the bearing at the bottom of the picture.

Very easy to see after I pressed it off the crankshaft:

View attachment 412030

This is a 2019 model:

View attachment 412029

I started a new thread to see if anyone knows of a source for metal caged replacements here: Husqvarna 562XP - Any source for steel-caged bearings?

Like I said in the other thread: I really want to like this saw but the design makes it hard. I think there is a market for metal caged replacement bearings for these saws.
I agree. 562s are killer saws. But heat soak from design and recommend 50:1 oil is a bad recipe.

I don't charge enough to buy a new saw every few months, so......
 

Duke Thieroff

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The reason most manufacturers don't go with a metal cage is that bearing failure is certain on almost all professional models.

When the plastic cage fails it just spits a little bit of debris out of the muffler.
When a metal cage fails it often wipes the cylinder.


Consider this approach when thinking about metal cage bearings.
 

huskihl

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Put new bearings in it and run it at 32:1 and I bet your problems go away. I don’t know how many of those things I’ve ported and put 40 more pounds of compression into them and they are still running fine. After people spend money on port work they tend to run better oil and more of it to protect their investment
 

drumbum

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@Mastermind @Duke Thieroff - Yes all true...but I was talking about the general confusion on the matter. People think it's important and are doing it anyways, but incorrectly. How many threads, facebook posts, people piss revving their saws for a min straight could be cleared up with an official 2 min video from the manufacturer right from product release.

I was just saying a lot of confusion could have been avoided with better information from the manufacturer. But then again, what else is new.
I wouldn't put too much faith in a corp. produced vid these days.....lol

Case in point,....Hooskvarna had a vid on their Toob channel where a young, tatted up, skinnyjeans wearin, metroxecksual hipster was instructing how to use the roller file guide system.....

....the video has subsequently been scrubbed after some truthful and maybe somewhat acerbic comments were left by myself.

I could have had the receptionist gal at the front desk make a better vid with 2 mins of coaching,......yes.....it was that bad.

LMWAO!
 
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