Husqvarna 2100 thread

[Woodwackr]

I wish there was some way to break the glue bond so you could reglue them. I have 2-3 tanks that leak fuel.

What about using epoxy tank seal? Kinda like epoxy paint in consistency so you pour it in, move the tank around to get everything covered, pour out the excess and then let dry.
Or, use the vacuum technique with the same stuff?
Find the leaks with compressed air and soapy water, mark them. Then hit each spot with epoxy while under vac.

 

[edisto]

I wish there was some way to break the glue bond so you could reglue them. I have 2-3 tanks that leak fuel.

Has anyone tried Kreem tank liner for metal tanks? I have some, but so far all I have used it for is to paint over corroded spots in the fuel bowl of lawnmower carbs. It's not recommended for plastic or plastic parts, but should work on a 2100 tank.

 

[Squareground3691]

Has anyone tried Kreem tank liner for metal tanks? I have some, but so far all I have used it for is to paint over corroded spots in the fuel bowl of lawnmower carbs. It's not recommended for plastic or plastic parts, but should work on a 2100 tank.

View attachment 452421

Red-Kote , is decent to .

 

[Woodwackr]

How do those two do in oil tanks?

 

[Squareground3691]

How do those two do in oil tanks?

I’ve only done fuel with it ,

 

[hacskaroly]

I started pulling and about wore myself out. Ended up putting some fuel down the carb and it took off! It ran out of usable fuel and shut off, so I have some issue with the carb and/or impulse. It had no problems starting and running each time with fuel poured down the carb. I was happy to find out that it will start and run and create copious amounts of blue smoke.

I pulled the saw out this weekend and took out the carb, I was right, I had smashed the gasket between the carb and intake gasket and blocked the impulse. I replaced the gasket and the saw still would not start, no fuel to the carb. I pressure tested the fuel line from the tank side, no leak, tested the fuel filter and got bubbles out of it. I tested the fuel line side that connected to the carb and again no leak....wait, what??? I took a flashlight and looked between the tank and the chassis and saw that the fuel line was all twisted up (not sure how I did that!). I pull out enough screws to separate the tank and chassis to get the fuel line untwisted, got it all back together and the saw fired up and ran. I found that the idle adjustment screw didn't reach the carb, but that was due to the chassis hole being impacted with dirt, with it all cleaned out it is now working properly too.

I did find that my chain adjuster isn't working, it appears that the adjuster pawl does not match the screw as it just slide's over the threads. I am wondering if I am also missing a e-clip or something because when I adjust the screw, it just unscrews from the socket. The little plastic part that holds it in place, just works itself down the threads.

But, big thing is that it is running, I am very happy with that!!!

 

[Woodwackr]

I pulled the saw out this weekend and took out the carb, I was right, I had smashed the gasket between the carb and intake gasket and blocked the impulse. I replaced the gasket and the saw still would not start, no fuel to the carb. I pressure tested the fuel line from the tank side, no leak, tested the fuel filter and got bubbles out of it. I tested the fuel line side that connected to the carb and again no leak....wait, what??? I took a flashlight and looked between the tank and the chassis and saw that the fuel line was all twisted up (not sure how I did that!). I pull out enough screws to separate the tank and chassis to get the fuel line untwisted, got it all back together and the saw fired up and ran. I found that the idle adjustment screw didn't reach the carb, but that was due to the chassis hole being impacted with dirt, with it all cleaned out it is now working properly too.

I did find that my chain adjuster isn't working, it appears that the adjuster pawl does not match the screw as it just slide's over the threads. I am wondering if I am also missing a e-clip or something because when I adjust the screw, it just unscrews from the socket. The little plastic part that holds it in place, just works itself down the threads.

But, big thing is that it is running, I am very happy with that!!!

There is a little plastic square that keeps the long screw in place. A rubber washer will do basically the same thing.
If you need that adjuster point, I have some

 

[hacskaroly]

There is a little plastic square that keeps the long screw in place

I have the plastic square for the right side (looking at the assembly in the saw) and the other one that goes on the end of the screw (left side). Its the one on the right that travels down the screws when I begin turning the screw. Do you happen to know the size/pitch the screw and adjuster point are? It's possible I have the correct size adjuster point but the wrong screw. This thing fooled me once, with enough pressure, the adjuster will adjust, but any slack and it just slides down the screw.

 

[Woodwackr]

I have the plastic square for the right side (looking at the assembly in the saw) and the other one that goes on the end of the screw (left side). Its the one on the right that travels down the screws when I begin turning the screw. Do you happen to know the size/pitch the screw and adjuster point are? It's possible I have the correct size adjuster point but the wrong screw. This thing fooled me once, with enough pressure, the adjuster will adjust, but any slack and it just slides down the screw.

M6x1.0
501 29 41
There are others that fit
The 735 31 68-01 is a C- clip

 

[Woodslasher]

M6x1.0
501 29 41
There are others that fit
The 735 31 68-01 is a C- clip

I've been down this rabbit hole, without any apparent rhyme or reason some tensioner bolts have e clip notches, others don't. I recall ordering n.o.s. variants of the same part # from different sellers and having both variants show up. All that aside, I cut a square of the thick section of a bike inner tube and use that when I need those rubber bits. $6 for a glorified o ring is a bit much in my book. One last thing, the tighter the id of the rubber o ring, the better.

 

[nv656]

I wish there was some way to break the glue bond so you could reglue them. I have 2-3 tanks that leak fuel.

There’s this video floating around YouTube

 

[Woodwackr]

There’s this video floating around YouTube

Wow, pretty low heat. I’m guessing 150C? 300f

 

[hacskaroly]

M6x1.0
501 29 41
There are others that fit
The 735 31 68-01 is a C- clip

Thanks, looks like I have the correct adjuster point, I think the screw may be an M4, I did try an M5 (only because I don't have an M6 on hand) and the M5 was a snugger fit than the screw I have.

I've been down this rabbit hole, without any apparent rhyme or reason some tensioner bolts have e clip notches, others don't. I recall ordering n.o.s. variants of the same part # from different sellers and having both variants show up. All that aside, I cut a square of the thick section of a bike inner tube and use that when I need those rubber bits. $6 for a glorified o ring is a bit much in my book. One last thing, the tighter the id of the rubber o ring, the better.

Luckily I have the rubber pieces, but will keep the innertube in mind. I already have bike spokes for making throttle rods, no reason to not have inner tubes for o-rings!!

 

[hacskaroly]

There’s this video floating around YouTube

Neat, I wonder what glue/epoxy would work good to put it back together?

 

[Woodwackr]

Thanks, looks like I have the correct adjuster point, I think the screw may be an M4, I did try an M5 (only because I don't have an M6 on hand) and the M5 was a snugger fit than the screw I have.

View attachment 452807


Luckily I have the rubber pieces, but will keep the innertube in mind. I already have bike spokes for making throttle rods, no reason to not have inner tubes for o-rings!!

Can’t be a 4, way too small. The ones I have for those saws are m6. The 266 series are m5.

Shown is the correct m6 point but a m5 screw, and square…for a 266

 

[hacskaroly]

Can’t be a 4, way too small. The ones I have for those saws are m6. The 266 series are m5.

Shown is the correct m6 point but a m5 screw, and square…for a 266

I need to get a screw gauge and stop guessing at sizes...lol. That sucks, now I need to get a 266 to go with the chain adjustment screw and rubber square I already have!

 

[qurotro]

Thanks, looks like I have the correct adjuster point, I think the screw may be an M4, I did try an M5 (only because I don't have an M6 on hand) and the M5 was a snugger fit than the screw I have.

View attachment 452807


Luckily I have the rubber pieces, but will keep the innertube in mind. I already have bike spokes for making throttle rods, no reason to not have inner tubes for o-rings!!

Looks legit to me. Maybe clearing the threads on both of them.

 

[hacskaroly]

Looks legit to me. Maybe clearing the threads on both of them.

I did run a wire brush across them, the screw is too small for the adjuster point. I can insert the screw through the adjuster point without having to turn either, the screw is just too small. Makes sense if it is from a 266.

 

[Woodwackr]

I did run a wire brush across them, the screw is too small for the adjuster point. I can insert the screw through the adjuster point without having to turn either, the screw is just too small. Makes sense if it is from a 266.

266 or a dozen others that use a m5

 

[Squareground3691]

Red Beard V -Stack ,