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Husqvarna 2100 thread

Brewz

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What would peoples opinion on these saws be with regards to using them for milling?

I am struggling to decide between this saw and an 090

The 090 will have more power but its a lot heaveir and more awkward to use

I am planning on running a 50" bar
 

idiotwithasaw

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Main concern I've heard in using these saws for milling is parts availability.
 

Brewz

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Yeah agreed!

I think I will just repair and flip it

All it needs is a good clean and a new on/off switch.
 

Redfin

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I just finished one and plan on using it to mill. Mine slobbers oil without touching the manual oiler.

Its probably not the best choice for a mill saw but for what light milling I plan to do it will be fine. And if I scorch a piston my buddy Dave can get me a quick replacement.:)
 

MERR6267

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I you want to do a v-stack, please dont' cut the cover. They are not necessarily common anymore, and for a guy like me, I prefer to have one. I got lucky and bought a saw that has a good cover, but should I break it, it'd be nice to be able to afford a new one.

I put a new piston and rings in mine and I've mentioned it a few times but here goes:

The piston that mine came with was a bit scratched and i replaced with the only one that I saw available. I bought a VEC (I think) and the one that I took out was a Golf. The castings, right down to the imperfections were identical. The cast name appears to be an insert in the tool and the castings are the same. In order to get the rod to fit, I had to widen the opening as there was mold erosion in the width of the opening and it wasn't machined. I used a coarse flat file and small careful strokes to remove the casting errors and the unit went on fine.

I threw out the rings that came with it and used Cabers for a 395 and OEM circlips. I cleaned up the windows in the piston with a simple chain file.

I replaced my clutch and drum with that for a 395xp. (mine was cooked) Better design and good fit. I believe that the drum kit even comes with a new v-ring. (the seal for the clutch)

I removed the rattle-valve governor in the carburetor and blocked it with some gasket material which allows the saw to rev higher, but also allows for better tune-ability by ear, as I can hear it 4-stroke. (I used a leather punch to get a tiny disk of material under the

I've not run it against a 395, but it's a strong runner for my 3-5 times that I used it per year.

Enjoy,
phill
 

Brewz

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Phill, thankyou so much for that info.
If a 395 clutch/drum assembly fits that makes it a more attractive proposition for occasional milling.

Vince, that muffler mod looks great. Did you just slot it and bend the sections up?

I looked at the prices for top covers when I got it and decided it would never be cut. Not cheap!

The K&N offers lower restriction but for me, the advantage is that I can run a saw for days with an outer ware cover over the filter and it stays as clean as when I start.
 

Brewz

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What did you guys do about the perforated steel section that seals off most of the muffler from around the exhaust port inlet area?
I am thinking of cutting it out
 

Brewz

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My muffler has a removable plate on the front so I can make something and screw it on nice and easy
 

VinceGU05

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What did you guys do about the perforated steel section that seals off most of the muffler from around the exhaust port inlet area?
I am thinking of cutting it out

Left it in. Didn't look like it was choking the saw.
 

Brewz

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I am thinking about taking out the bottom half.
I dont like it at all..... looks super restrictive
 

Brewz

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I hit it with the pressure cleaner today and took the top end off.
Inside is in fantastic condition.

WP_20160619_17_30_26_Pro.jpg

WP_20160619_17_30_59_Pro.jpg

The clutch and drum need replacement.

What exactly needs to be done to fit a clutch and drum from a 395?
It is a simple bolt on conversion?

WP_20160619_17_35_12_Pro.jpg
 

Brewz

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Is the ring over the chain lobes removable.

It doesnt want to come off and I am not keen of forcing it if it will be a *b-word to replace if I break it
 
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